Buying this box blade....Bad idea? Any idea of manufacturer?

[Tractorable]

I’d get it sandblasted and then give it a rattle can paint job.

 

[jjbenson]

So after searching for several hours, I was able to find the parts diagram. I must admit, it was getting frustrating when trying to search for anything 泥earborn? Almost everything that came up was real estate related in Dearborn, M*ch*gan. Adding Ford, Earthcavator, etc didn稚 help much either.

Is anyone sure of the progression of the original Earthcavator? From the limited info I have been able to find, it started with Earthcavator Manufacturing Inc, to Gannon, and now to Woods.

Regardless, here are the pictures of the parts diagram for the model I have, called the 鏑andscaper model.

 

[jmc]

I hope you don't second-guess yourself on the money. A lot of satisfaction and entertainment value ahead.

 

[nyone]

Why not just use the thing as is for the time being? As for sandblasting paint its lasted at least a few years with a tree growing out of it so im not sure i would get to fancy on it.

I paid about $550 for a used hawse to hawlk brand 6ft box blade with scarifers 5 years ago. I even use it as a logging back blade. Its built really heavy. My box blade hardly ever leaves the back of my tractor any more. You will like having one.

 

[jjbenson]

Why not just use the thing as is for the time being? As for sandblasting paint its lasted at least a few years with a tree growing out of it so im not sure i would get to fancy on it.

I paid about $550 for a used hawse to hawlk brand 6ft box blade with scarifers 5 years ago. I even use it as a logging back blade. Its built really heavy. My box blade hardly ever leaves the back of my tractor any more. You will like having one.

That’s likely what will happen. I’ve got a 500yd driveway that needs dragged badly. How essential are the teeth/scarifiers when working in gravel? I think I can find some teeth that will work somewhere. I tend to try to find original parts, but for a 60 plus year old piece, I doubt I will be able too.

I’m also curious what folks think about the replaceable teeth on the scarifiers. Do they really help them last that much longer? It seems like I’ve seen several type for sale that don’t even take teeth.

 

[fruitcakesa]

My old L came with a 72 inch box blade, I can't recall the brand, but a really heavy duty unit.
It had no scarifiers but since it was used by construction company from Florida where it was pretty sandy.
I use it primarily as a counter weight and to move snow but those older rigs were heavily built to last.

 

[/pine]

Most of us with static scarifiers are envious of a blade with mechanically retracting scarifiers ...most would add a hydraulic cylinder...

One of the more difficult mods made by DIYers is converting static scarifiers to mechanical...mostly because of the way the box blades are designed and built...

This is about the best prices on typical shanks and teeth: Search Results | Agri Supply(R)

 

[nyone]

I hardly ever put my scarifiers down below the back edge. Usualy thats to break up high spots but a heavy BBlade will do just fine.
I drag my 400ft packed gravel road a few times a year. Isualy one pass to loosen things up a bit and one to smooth out. Takes about 10min.

 

[MESSMAKER]

Agri supply used to sell scarifiers for some obscene price like $15 each. About a third what they are anywhere else.

 

[Fallon]

That’s likely what will happen. I’ve got a 500yd driveway that needs dragged badly. How essential are the teeth/scarifiers when working in gravel? I think I can find some teeth that will work somewhere. I tend to try to find original parts, but for a 60 plus year old piece, I doubt I will be able too.

I’m also curious what folks think about the replaceable teeth on the scarifiers. Do they really help them last that much longer? It seems like I’ve seen several type for sale that don’t even take teeth.

Scarfiers are critical if the blade cant cut into the ground. If your ground is softer they arent needed. But good gravel or dry clay tends to be impervious to many box blades on their own. All the weight of the box blade on the big cutting edge isnt enough. All that weight on tiny scarfier teeth dramatically increases the cutting power on those small contact patches to loosen things up.

Replaceable teeth are no different than a replaceable cutting edge. Cheaper than a whole scarfier (or box blade).

Who cares about OEM as long ast they fit? Scarfiers & box blades aren't precision instruments. If it fits in the mounting slot & is close to the right length, you are good to go.

As far as sandblasting it.. what's the difference between sandblasting or grinding & dragging it through the dirt & rock? Not much. A little rattle can or rust converter might help stall rust a bit, but it wont last in the long run.

My 20-30 year old Gannon is missing most of its paint & a little rusty, but otherwise doing fine.