Buying used (250/2500), what to avoid (engine/trans known issues)

   / Buying used (250/2500), what to avoid (engine/trans known issues) #21  
I have been a Ford truck guy since childhood, when (at 8 y.o.) my father taught me to drive his F-250, 2x4, manual shift, around his construction yard, and other, dusty places, where he needed a hand.

So it pains me to say this (and I'm surprised no one mentioned this) but waaay too many Ford gassers BLOW THEIR SPARK PLUGS OUT.

Yeah, I know, it hardly sounds believable, right?

Well, a personal friend had FOUR blow out (at different times)--repair cost: $400. per hole.

Lest anyone think I'm kidding, here's a company who's entire business model seems to be based on this issue:

Blownoutsparkplug.com Ford Spark Plug Thread Repair
Blownoutsparkplug.com Ford Spark Plug Thread Repair

Here is a blurb from one of their pages:

Blownoutsparkplug is the nations most recognized service
provider specializing in a low cost alternative to replacing the
cylinder head on most all 1997 to 2005 Ford 4.6L, 5.4L, and 6.8L
engines in Expeditions, Trucks, Mustangs, Crown Vics, Town
Cars, Motor Homes and Cobras
that have experienced a blown
out spark plug.

And their price seems to be an (unashamedly high) $500.+ per hole (if I read it correctly)!

And in the following links, unfortunately, I believe you'll find that people have been reporting this in models as late as 2007, if not later:

Ford Engines - Spark Plug Defect
Top 2,354 Complaints and Reviews about Ford Engines - Spark Plug Defect


Why Do Spark Plugs Eject From Ford's Engines?
Ford Spark Plug Blowout


I've personally owned/own 4 F-series, from 1972 to 1996 (the latter an F-250 H.D., 4x4 with 460 cu. in. IT blew a hole IN THE HEAD, but that was due to a bunch of unburnt fuel from a misfiring plug, which I mistook for the exhaust leak worsening, when I was in a hurry. That truck only got 8mpg anyway (BEFORE the head-rupture), for reasons I never understood. (They're supposed to get 12mpg, loaded or empty--I keep reading reports of that--but the P.O. claimed he was getting 15mpg--and I bought it--literally.) :thumbdown:


I LOVE Ford's 4.9L/300 cu. in., Straight Six (affectionately known as the "Big Six.")

They were made from approx. 1964 (in 240 cu. in., but same block as the 300 cu. in. through 1996--may it R.I.P.). I've had 4 of them (NOT counting my Dad's 2), and they were GREAT. Mpg so-so, about 16-17, in 2x4 form, manual trannies--though the 240cu. in. in my '71 F-100 (same block) with automatic, hit 19mpg...once. I've seen mpg claims of upwards of 20mpg, but never experienced that, myself.

But Ford KILLED the "Big Six" in 1996, as it wouldn't fit under the (lower) "aero-hood" of the 1997 F-150's.


The Big Six is commonly regarded as a gasser that can easily do 300,000 miles, if maintained--and my father's '73 went on to exceed 400,000 miles, with it's second owner.


So...the Big Six has more torque (some years) than the 302 V-8, and is a good puller, but 9,000lbs. seems like a lot, unless it was local and unhurried. But for more normal towing, it will outlast many bigger V-8's--though, at 150hp (with EFI since 1987), it'll be somewhat slower than the bigger V-8's--not a big deal, IMO, because when towing my 3,500lb. boat, I could still go 80mph, with plenty left, if I wanted to.

For many, many years (and possibly STILL in some trucks) UPS Vans were ALL powered by Ford's "Big Six," as were some of Ford's smaller dump trucks, in the '60's. (Listen to the next, large, older, UPS van you see--you can tell if it's a straight six, by the sound and, to my knowledge, UPS ONLY used Ford's BIG SIX, as I said).

What would I do, were I you? While it'll be tough-to-impossible, with your budget, esp. since you need 4x4, I would (try) to do what I SHOULD have done, and bought my father's 2001, 2x4 Dodge 3500 Dually, with the Cummins 5.9L. (But I realize you need 4x4, and the Cummins is overkill for four tractor-towings a year, if only local, at least--IMO. And you'll pay a premium for the Cummins, in 4x4 OR in 2x4 applications.)

My Dad routinely got 23mpg unloaded (six speed manual, and he installed the optional "Jake Brake", by himself, multipin connectors and all, while in his '80's!), and hauled a VERY large 5th wheel camper over much of the Eastern seaboard, and on, up into Canada--his antique trucking buddies (he's 91 y.o., a WWII combat vet and still active in the hobby) often have converted semi-tractors to pull their 5th wheels, and the Dodge 3500 was outrun by some of them, but that's to be expected. (He graduated to a huge motorhome, with a bus engine, sideways, in the rear, and sold the 3500, after I passed on it--like the IDIOT Iwas...).

But at the time, I wanted to go back to 2x4, as the 1996 F-250 gas hog routinely got stuck, in the yard (it was so heavy it would sink in, and NOT move until I locked in the [special order] manual hubs--though, to be fair, it had no studded tires. Whereas my 1988 F-150, 2x4 did GREAT with studs on the rears, only (which is a "no-no"--supposed to stud all four tires, if studding at all). And got twice the mpg of the 460 V-8--admittedly, the 460 was in the much heavier F-250....


As was mentioned, those Gen I and Gen II Cummins are quite sought after, in some circles--and LOVED in my father's antique truck collecting hobby-buddies--but then, they're just a bunch of retired (and still working) semi-truck owner/drivers, construction co. owners, etc..., so what do they know, right? J/k.

So, the Cummins is probably too much money (unless you either give up on 4x4, and get some studded duallies, instead?) and the Big Six might not be enough engine for 9,000lbs., but the "Big Six" (300 cu. in./4.9L, inline six) WILL outlast other, small V-8's, in that endeavor.

So, other than to avoid Ford's spark-plug-spitting "Modular V-8's, I don't know what to tell you. IF you could make the Big Six work for you, load-wise, that would fit the budget, even in 4x4--and SOME F-250 4x4's DID come with the Big Six, but I've never seen one. However, the last Big Six, in ANY Ford truck, was built back in '96 (and "Cash for Clunkers" didn't help any, in terms of finding one, now), so that's a potential problem. If you need more power, and want to spend the money, I'd go for the Cummins, which I believe go back as far as the late 1970's--but I'm not a Dodge guy, so please, experts, feel free to correct me, for the OP's benefit.

Oh--I almost forgot--as you'll read on the vendor's website, above, Ford (at least for a while?) used a spark plug that apparently was made in two pieces (I've never seen them) and they BREAK, making a huge PITA to remove what's left--see the first site, above, for details--and CO$T$.

Perhaps you're best off listening to the Chevy guys--I've never been a fan, no offense, but this thread seems to be trending toward these Chevy 6.0 gassers, which I've never even taken notice of, and thus know ZERO about, other than what I read here.

Good luck, and let us know what you find!

My Hoe
 
   / Buying used (250/2500), what to avoid (engine/trans known issues) #22  
The 6.0 Chevy's of that era have exhaust manifold rust issues if they are in the salt belt. 2 sets on ours.
 
   / Buying used (250/2500), what to avoid (engine/trans known issues) #23  
GMC/Chevy have transfer cases that are ticking time bombs. Every dodge front end I've seen have bent relay rods. Fords of the 2000 era have spark plug issues...

Moral of the story, every truck has issues, especially used. Buy what suits you and just be prepared to invest some money if need be.
 
   / Buying used (250/2500), what to avoid (engine/trans known issues) #24  
GMC/Chevy have transfer cases that are ticking time bombs. Every dodge front end I've seen have bent relay rods. Fords of the 2000 era have spark plug issues... Moral of the story, every truck has issues, especially used. Buy what suits you and just be prepared to invest some money if need be.

Correct. For me it's cheapest to operate over a 7 to 10 years and hands down that's Fords. Look at 90% of municipal vehicles, they are Fords. Cop cars, work trucks, ambulances, tow trucks, and the list goes on.

I have owned them all. My Nissan and Toyota did a good job as well as a Honda but overall the brand that has lasted is Ford.

Chris
 
   / Buying used (250/2500), what to avoid (engine/trans known issues) #25  
Correct. For me it's cheapest to operate over a 7 to 10 years and hands down that's Fords. Look at 90% of municipal vehicles, they are Fords. Cop cars, work trucks, ambulances, tow trucks, and the list goes on.

I have owned them all. My Nissan and Toyota did a good job as well as a Honda but overall the brand that has lasted is Ford.

Chris
I see more Dodge cummins diesel trucks (hot shots)pulling more new trailers out of Indiana trailer manufactures than other brand trucks.
 
   / Buying used (250/2500), what to avoid (engine/trans known issues) #26  
I see more Dodge cummins diesel trucks (hot shots)pulling more new trailers out of Indiana trailer manufactures than other brand trucks.

Almost every single hot shotter I see is running a Cummins. Why? Because they will outlast everything else. Go on the Cummins Forum and there are tons of people with 700k, 900k, a million miles on their hot shot trucks, original motor. You wont ever see that with any Ford or Chevy.

Duramax's almost always go right around 250k. Seen a few 7.3s last 300k-400k. But nobody has the record Cummins has on longevity.
 
   / Buying used (250/2500), what to avoid (engine/trans known issues) #27  
I see more Dodge cummins diesel trucks (hot shots)pulling more new trailers out of Indiana trailer manufactures than other brand trucks.
I see a lot of them also followed closely by 6L Fords.

They buy what's cheap and easily made reliable. Not much money in Hot Shoting. I looked into it. I can make more profit in 4 hrs with a boat than I could doing 4 days of Hot Shoting.

Chris
 
   / Buying used (250/2500), what to avoid (engine/trans known issues) #28  
I'll echo others advice. If you are not driving it much, go with a gasser, not diesel. Heard talk of the turbos seizing up with low use and lots of sitting. I got a F250 5.4 '05 several years back. Sitting outside for most of it's life has taken a toll with rust the past couple years, and the brake calipers seem to like to rust this way too. It has been mostly inside for the past year (until the summer when I needed the workspace) but the damage has been done by now. Mine is the 5.4 with the newer 3 valve head. More power than the old 2 valve head, and doesn't spit plugs, but they do tend to get seized up in it. Power is OK. If you are highly impatient and want sports car accel, then this is not the engine for you, but it will get you there. I also like the 8'bed, which is non-existent in 1/2 tons these days, unless you get a regular cab. 8' bed, super cab (not crew) was perfect for me.
 
   / Buying used (250/2500), what to avoid (engine/trans known issues) #29  
I just went thru this exact same dilemma last month. I occasionally trailer my tractors (4000 - 7000 lbs depending on the tractor) but more importantly I want to pull my jeep over the Rockies, down to TX, etc... and my 2001 2wd Chevy 1/2 was just getting tired (its been a great truck though). What it boiled down to is making a list of the must haves. For me it was less than $15000, less than 150K miles (random number I picked), decent fuel mileage unloaded (so at least 16 - 17 mpg) and four doors. Anything else (4wd, flat bed, looks cool, shipped) were nice to haves but not needed. What I ended up with was stock 2005 Dodge 2500 Cummins quad cab 6 speed manual 2wd with 120K miles for $14000. Its only been 3 weeks but I couldn't be happier. Its great on fuel when empty (over 25 mpg) and pulls my toys just fine. They all have their issues - for the 05 Dodge its fuel injectors that are really sensitive to moisture. Not sure if its accurate or not but in my search people mentioned ford and chevy diesels more in regards to power and dodge diesel more in regards to mpg. Generally the best bargain diesel seems to be Ford 6.0 but strongly urge you get one that has not been chipped - seems like that is when most people started to get into trouble with that engine.
 
   / Buying used (250/2500), what to avoid (engine/trans known issues) #30  
I just went thru this exact same dilemma last month. I occasionally trailer my tractors (4000 - 7000 lbs depending on the tractor) but more importantly I want to pull my jeep over the Rockies, down to TX, etc... and my 2001 2wd Chevy 1/2 was just getting tired (its been a great truck though). What it boiled down to is making a list of the must haves. For me it was less than $15000, less than 150K miles (random number I picked), decent fuel mileage unloaded (so at least 16 - 17 mpg) and four doors. Anything else (4wd, flat bed, looks cool, shipped) were nice to haves but not needed. What I ended up with was stock 2005 Dodge 2500 Cummins quad cab 6 speed manual 2wd with 120K miles for $14000. Its only been 3 weeks but I couldn't be happier. Its great on fuel when empty (over 25 mpg) and pulls my toys just fine. They all have their issues - for the 05 Dodge its fuel injectors that are really sensitive to moisture. Not sure if its accurate or not but in my search people mentioned ford and chevy diesels more in regards to power and dodge diesel more in regards to mpg. Generally the best bargain diesel seems to be Ford 6.0 but strongly urge you get one that has not been chipped - seems like that is when most people started to get into trouble with that engine.

Oh c'mon, you really expect us to believe that you're getting over 25 mpg with a 3/4 ton truck?? Really??
 

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