BX 22 Storage Barn

[GregW]

Hello All,
It's been a while since my BX 22 came in, and I'm really enjoying it.
I have used it to clear out the overgrown property line on the back of my lot and I have started building a barn with attached shed to house the BX. Currently I have to keep it under a tarp when it's not being used. I'm attaching a few photos of the foundation for the barn.
The barn will be 16' X 16' with a 10' attached shed on the left end. I would have liked to build a larger building, but I'm trying to keep in scale with the area I have to build on. I neglected to mention that It will be a two story barn with the traditional barn style Gambrel roof. Storage area for both floors total will be 512 SQ Ft.
I will try to keep photo's posted as the project progresses.

Greg Williams

 

[GregW]

BX 22 Storage Barn Photo 2

Photo 2

Notice the 5/8 in Steel rebar
There are 20, 20 foot long pieces of 5/8 rebar in the foundation.

The concrete pour will be 8" around the perimeter of the foundation (12 " wide x 8" deep) and 5 to 6 inches thru the center area.
This is the view on the shed end of the foundation.

 

[GregW]

BX 22 Storage Barn Photo 3

Photo 3
Notice the concrete reinforcement wire. The depressed area you see is actually the dividing line between the building and the covered shed. The additional concrete depth is to support the building side wall.

 

[rambler]

Re: BX 22 Storage Barn Photo 3

We deal with different climate up here in MN! Code requires a 24" 'ratwall' footing for floating floors, and 4' for a true below-frost footing. Eight inches would crumble with the frost heaves up here.

But looks like some nice work there, I'm sure that works in your climate. Keep us updated! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

--->Paul

 

[bx22nh]

Looking good! Are you doing the work yourself, or hiring some out? If you haven't done it before, I'd seriously consider at least hiring out the roofing job.

I'm also jealous of the shallow foundation...4 feet for below frost up here in NH as well. But hey, that's what the backhoe is for /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

john

 

[Jim_Becker]

Nice, job Greg. Your tractor will be "very happy" with you when its new home is done. BTW, don't forget the height of the ROPS when you plan for the door! Remembering to fold it every time is a real pain...trust me, I know!!

 

[GregW]

Thanks for your comments,
I did the excavation with the BX, I moved the equivalent of 3 full size pickup beds of dirt to prepare the site, and I built the forms and did the steel work my self. As for the building construction I'm lucky in that my best freind is a master carpenter/home builder and I hope that he will lend his expertise to the project. I'm planning on having the Gambrel roof trusses built by a local truss manufacture to speed the project along. As for the roof, at this point I'm planning to go with a painted tin roof, which I hope will be easy enough for me to do.

In this part of the country it's a rare occurance to have extremely cold weather, in that I mean in the low teens for more than a few days or so, never long enough to cause a soil freeze of more than 2 to 3 inches at the most severe. By code I'm sure it would need to be deeper, but I don't think I will have any problems, as long as the building inspector doesnt pay me a visit. The inspectors in my area generally dont get involved on small projects such as this, unless someone calls it to their attention.

Thanks
Greg

 

[GregW]

Jim,
Thanks for your comments,
I'm planning on having a 9 foot ceiling on the bottom floor, I haven't made and measurements yet as far as clearance for the ROP's, but I will before I get to far along to make sure I can get thru the door without having to fold over the ROP's.
I hope with the 9 foot ceiling I will be able to get a roll up door that will be high enough. I'm planning on using one of the commercial type roll up doors ( the kind that rolls up on a cylinder) hopefully this will give me more head height in the building. The door will also be 8 feet wide for easy entry into the building with the mower deck on.
Please let me know your thoughts on door heights and type preferences.
On another note my BX 22 has 41 hrs on it now,and is coming due for the 50 hr service, as you may recall my brother is a Kubota mechanic, and he has already brought over the filters to do the maintenance, but I don't have the hydraulic fluid yet. I asked my brother if it was necessary to change the hydro fluid, and much to my surprise, he said where he works they don't really force the issue on changing the hydro fluid because the don't really feel its necessary at the 50 hr mark, and as far as they were concerned my warranty would not be affected as long as I changed the engine oil/filters at the 50 hr mark.
I will say that I'm planning on keeping the tractor a long time, so I don't mind changing the hydro fluid a 50 hrs just to be on the safe side. I went ahead a asked him to get the hydro fluid for me and I'm going to go ahead and change it when the oil is delivered to me.
Well I know that I got off topic with this, but I thought that you Jim, would be interested to hear what my brother had to say about the Hydro fluid. I forgot to ask him what he thought about synthetic motor oils, do you have an opinion on synthetics? or the super UDT versus reg hydro fluid Jim? anyone else with a opinion please feel free to comment.

Many thanks
Greg

 

[Jim_Becker]

My opinion on the fluid is that when you change it, use the type recommended by Kubota. My BX-22 is due now for it's 50 hour service as I have about 53 hours on it. Normally, I would do the service myself, but I'm in the middle of renovating our kitchen (pics on my web site) and I'm going to have my dealers roving mechanic take care of it...paying the labor is less costly than losing time on building my cabinets. Even though I'm still working on last year's vacation time, I don't want to waste it! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[techman]

Greg:

Here is what I ended up building as a new home for my '22.

It is 16'x20' with the roof 10' at the peak. I made the doors out of 2 sheets of T1-11, so the door opening is 8'x8'. The ROPS is about 7'6" and I made sure that I did not have to fold it to get in. That can be a real pain to do.

I did mine last summer. It was a fun project, just too bad we had such a hot summer last year. We had more than normal snow this past winter and it survived the roof loading w/o any problems.

paul

 

[techman]

Inside view

paul

 

[daveMT]

I designed my garage around an 8' garage door. I found the height of the door and added enough for the header over the door. The header also allowed enough height to hold the door when open. Overall, its about 9'. I love the extra height and the 8' tall doors. I sided with T-111, and the only issue was not being able to find 9' tall plywood.

If you have the space, I'd go with a 9' foot door. A standard 8' is too narrow many times. I put in a double 16' door and a single 9' door. My garage is 28x42, but then I have 20 acres, so space wasn't an issue.

Random thoughts:
If you can, put in some skylights to allow light into the shed from above.
I had the gambrel trusses built locally also. Worked great for putting them up since they became the floor for the 2nd story and the roof in an afternoon.
You will probably also want to hang tools from the rafters to get them out of the way, as well as store supplies along the outer edges. Allow for this when sizing.
Good luck on the project.

 

[GregW]

Hello Everyone,
I'm Pleased to report that the BX 22 Tractor shed project has resumed after a long break that was needed to save up the funds to proceed.
Diamensions:
16x16 and about 19.5 feet tall with an attached 10 foot shed to be built on the left side of the building.

1st floor walls are 9 foot

Garage door will be 10 feet wide with a 8 foot tall opening. I plan to use a commercial roll up door, the type that rolls up onto a spool. I think this type door will maximize the storage area as well as not obstruct the overhead lighting like a traditional residential garage door would.

The second floor has a 1 foot tall knee wall to help get a little more head height upstairs. At ~ 2 feet from the truss there will be ~ 7.5 feet of head height. I plan to use 2x6 wind beams on every truss, this will give 8 foot head height down the center, as well as giving me a good surface to mount the lighting on.

Exterior Sheathing.....7/16 OSB with Hardie 4x10 Grooved Cedar texture...this is the kind with cement mixed in. It should hold up well.

Exterior trim- All plastic/composite base for weather resistance.

Roof - will be painted galvalume.

Well the attached photos will show the first days work progress, all in all I think we made a good showing.

Greg

 

[GregW]

First Floor Walls

 

[GregW]

First Floor Framing

 

[GregW]

Front View 2nd Floor Nail Down

 

[GregW]

Front View Gable Truss

 

[GregW]

Right Corner View Showing Front And Rear Truss

 

[GregW]

Right Side Wall

 

[GregW]

Cener Truss Construction Showing Gussets. When truss is raised a second gusset will be glued and nailed on back side of each truss for additional strength. Wind beams will also be added when truss is raised.