BX FEL Testdrive

r0GuE · Jul 28, 2001

I went to the dealer and test drove a BX with a FEL. I am adding the FEL to my BX. They are picking it up Monday and will return it Wed. While I need the FEL, and I am definitely getting it, my impression is that you should probably operate it with a resonably high throttle setting. When you do set the throttle high, the thing seems awfully jerky. Is that the way all of yours are? Is this a problem? It seems like it would be a little hard on the equipment but perhaps not a major deal.

Also we tried taking off the FEL, a little tricky, the dealer pulled all the pins and then used the hydro to lift the FEL off the tractor. Then he pulled the tractor back a few inches, AND THEN he disconnected the hydro lines. Does this seem right to you guys. It seems like you shouldnt back up with the fel hydro connected (and not the pins).
I dunno...

Rogue

woodstock · Jul 28, 2001

I too thought that you need high revs but you don't.
Anything higher that 50% throtle is a waste of engine and fuel.
You do need to run in low range 4X4 to get the need power to the wheels.
The joy stick is very sensitive to lower especially with a full bucket of wet sand. (heavy)

Winnipeg, Manitoba

2001 BX2200 (20 hrs) All Kubota FEL,Tiller, box blade, blower w/elec shute, 60 mid mt deck, Ag tires.
Grey market B7000 w/Tiller (120 hrs)
1984 JD 316 after 687 hrs.

GeorgeH · Jul 28, 2001

Thats how I remove mine, lift it out of the mount and then disconnect the hoses. It takes less time and is easier than dropping the mower deck. In fact it is easier to put on or remove the loader than to put on or remove my Befco 60" rear blade. Works best when done on a flat solid surface. Read the manual that comes with it and play safe till you get the hang of it. You're going to love that FEL.

<font color=orange>George</font color=orange> /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

glennmac · Jul 29, 2001

rogue,

You dont have a tachometer, but when using the fel you usually only need to be maybe 1/2 to 3/4 the rpm of what you use for mowing. If you're having trouble lifting something, you can then boost up the rpm.

All the fels I am familiar with on all brands use a similar removal procedure. The fel is put on its supports with bucket maneuvers, pins are pulled, and the tractor is backed away from the cradles of the supported fel by rolling the bucket and/or by reversing the tractor a few inches. Then the lines are uncoupled. It gets easier with practice. Since the BX fel is so light, you probably could uncouple the lines and then drag the fel out of its cradle, but there is no reason to do that (unless you cant control your reverse impulses).

Enjoy!

Bird · Jul 29, 2001

Rogue, I don't remember just how long the hoses are, etc. on the BX, but there's nothing wrong with doing that so long as you don't strain or pull on the hoses. On my B2710, I use the hydraulics (per the manual) to lift the FEL off, but then shut down the tractor and disconnect the hoses before backing the tractor away from the FEL.

Bird

GlueGuy · Jul 29, 2001

That's the correct procedure to unhook the FEL. You need to keep it connected until you lift it out of the cradle. Just don't move too fast; I usually have the engine idling when I do this procedure. Once you're used to it, it only takes a few minutes. 5 tops.

As for the jerky operation, two things. One, you probably don't need the highest RPM to operate the FEL. Only 1/2 to 3/4 as others have stated, depending on the job. Second, you will learn how to "feather" the joystick to get smaller, slower, smoother operation. The spool control valves are not purely on/off, but can be opened and closed in small amounts.

The GlueGuy

TresCrows · Jul 29, 2001

Roque, the operators manual for the FEL specifies 1700 to 2200 RPM. There is no need to operate at full throttle as the 5.5 rated flow occurs at the specified RPM's. I operate at not much above half throttle if that even, the engine is just loafing when I use the FEL and boxblade. Mine is smooth and despite the naysayers more than suffiecient for all tasks most "normal" people would be tasked with. If, however, you need an L series to mow 3/4 acre then you will not likely be happy with it. I moved another load of gravel yesterday and another load of dirt doing work on my ditch. I graded it smooth afterward with my boxblade and back dragging the bucket in float--you did get the 4 way valve---???!!!. What was fun is that the property beside me is still vacant but owned by a nice man who just happens to own a honking biggest "bota I ever saw. Since my lagoon is way to the back of the property he helped me carry some dirt back there with his big 'bota after finishing hogging. It was fun and was quite a show. I was somewhat dissappointed that that huge bucket he had carried so little, I was expecting a giant bite but he was a great help. Also, he liked the BX and rode it around and I think he will likely get one after his house goes in. As to removing and installing--it is super easy for me. JR

r0GuE · Jul 29, 2001

How do I know if I got the 4 way valve? they didn't give me any options like that.

Rogue

TresCrows · Jul 30, 2001

Well, better find out on the valve. It should be a part of the FEL package I think. Your other choice is the 3 way which is fine but does not have the float function? You need the 4 way because it has a very useful float position that allows you to back drag the bucket in float which is super useful for smoothing and spreading soil. The 4 way valve is about 60 or 70 dollars more I think and is worth it. It is also used for the front end attachments of the snow blower and blade. Look in to it I suggest. J, High Priest

Wheeldog · Jul 30, 2001

Another place where the float feature comes in handy is in pushing snow. Once I got the hang of it last Winter I had pretty good luck putting the loader in float, then changing the bucket curl on the fly to maintain the right cutting angle. If you're clearing snow I can't imagine doing it very effectively without the float.