BX toplink mods

Scooby074 · Jan 17, 2015

Just a couple easy little mods here to take care of some annoyances with the factory BX top link

First is to add a couple grease fittings. Under the black caps, there is a hole that is used to push in a roll pin when the link was built. This hole is just about the right size for a 1/8NPT grease fitting. I tapped the hole with a 1/8 NPT tap, no drilling required. There is a fair bit of clearance between the tube and the adjusting screw inside, the threads only go about 1" up the top link tube.

Now I can squirt a shot of grease in there once and a while to keep things smooth.

Second was to add some handles to the link to allow for easier adjustment, the welded on chain link is basically useless. The handles are 5" long, 1/2" round.

Lubed with some Cat 5% moly

Installed with a fresh coat of Kubota gray

sixdogs · Jan 18, 2015

Good pics. The handles really make life easier. It is so annoying trying to hook something up and not be able to connect the toplink because you can't turn it.

Scooby074 · Jan 18, 2015

sixdogs said:
Good pics. The handles really make life easier. It is so annoying trying to hook something up and not be able to connect the toplink because you can't turn it.

I think the handles will be a great help. Not only is it annoying to hook up things, but its also difficult to adjust the TL while in use, like when using a Box Blade. I think the handles will be as close as you can get to a manually operated hydraulic top link.

check · Jan 18, 2015

Yeah so why do they make the top link so hard to turn?

sixdogs · Jan 18, 2015

check said:
Yeah so why do they make the top link so hard to turn?

They make it easy to turn. It's the pressure on the link that makes it hard. Raise or lower the implement just a whisker and it will move like butter. A better way is handles like Scooby has.

dougtrr2 · Jan 18, 2015

Any concerns about grease building up inside and reducing adjustment? Or will you just take it apart periodically (once every 10 years) and clean it.

Doug in SW IA

gwdixon · Jan 18, 2015

It is always nice to see improvements to consider. Thanks for posting.

The handles would be a great help. My concern is that they would interfere with the PTO shaft or lift arms if they slightly rotated. My method of adjustment is to use a short crowbar and stick it through the "chain link" that is welded to the body.

The crowbar is kept in a piece of heavy-duty PVC water pipe held on to the ROP with screw clamps. BTW a fire extinguisher is carried on the other side of the ROP with a really large plastic pipe and screw clamps. Maybe I'll get a photo later.

Of course, another solution to the top link issue is to buy a cheap one and grind down the balls to fit in the narrow BX mount.

Scooby074 · Jan 18, 2015

check said:
Yeah so why do they make the top link so hard to turn?

I find the threads on the TL need a lot of lube or they bind up with weight on it. The way that Kubota designed it, with that welded on link that you jab a screwdriver through wasnt very well thought out IMHO. Its not convienient always having to find a tool to move the TL and it makes it really slow to adjust with all the re-positioning of the screwdriver or prybar when doing the adjustment.

Scooby074 · Jan 18, 2015

dougtrr2 said:
Any concerns about grease building up inside and reducing adjustment? Or will you just take it apart periodically (once every 10 years) and clean it.

Doug in SW IA

I predict that the TL might see 2 squirts of grease a year if that. The fact that there are through holes there to pound in/out the roll pins means that even though one side is plugged with a grease fitting, the other side has a loosly fitting plastic plug so you should never end up with a situitation where the grease causes it to lock because you can never get enough hydro pressure to cause it. If the pressure ever builds that high the plastic plug would shoot out I think. That whole tube is basically hollow with just a small set of threads on each end so there is a lot of volume in there you'd have to fill before this becomes an issue.

Scooby074 · Jan 18, 2015

gwdixon said:
It is always nice to see improvements to consider. Thanks for posting.

The handles would be a great help. My concern is that they would interfere with the PTO shaft or lift arms if they slightly rotated. My method of adjustment is to use a short crowbar and stick it through the "chain link" that is welded to the body.

The crowbar is kept in a piece of heavy-duty PVC water pipe held on to the ROP with screw clamps. BTW a fire extinguisher is carried on the other side of the ROP with a really large plastic pipe and screw clamps. Maybe I'll get a photo later.

Of course, another solution to the top link issue is to buy a cheap one and grind down the balls to fit in the narrow BX mount.

I was concerned with clearance too. But with the snowblower on there with its PTO, so far clearance isnt a problem for the TL and the PTO or 3pt. If an issue comes up, a few minutes with a hacksaw to shorten the handles is all it would take.

94BULLITT · Jan 22, 2015

Great idea's. Now what are you gonna do about the sidelink

G31 · Jan 22, 2015

Looks like a great idea! I might have to do mine too. I've made all of my own brackets for lights and switches, so this should be easy. I was actually going to buy one with the handles, because I feared the stock one might be too thin for welding. I was wrong.

. Thanks for being the test dummy.

If it ever interferes, I'd bet you could knock it back to 3" and still get all the leverage you need for a BX.

94BULLITT · Jan 22, 2015

I added grease fittings to mine tonight. Thanks for sharing the idea:thumbsup:

Scooby074 · Jan 22, 2015

G31 said:
Looks like a great idea! I might have to do mine too. I've made all of my own brackets for lights and switches, so this should be easy. I was actually going to buy one with the handles, because I feared the stock one might be too thin for welding. I was wrong. . Thanks for being the test dummy.

If it ever interferes, I'd bet you could knock it back to 3" and still get all the leverage you need for a BX.

The tube is quite thick actually. Fire up the welder lol.

3" would probably be plenty, but 5" hasnt caused any issues yet, so a little more leverage is a good thing.

Scooby074 · Jan 22, 2015

94BULLITT said:
Great idea's. Now what are you gonna do about the sidelink

Lol.. I might have to do something with it. Drill a couple holes and install some fittings . Not sure if I have clearance for much of a handle though. Ill have to look at it. The side link might be even more stiff than the top link

94BULLITT said:
I added grease fittings to mine tonight. Thanks for sharing the idea:thumbsup:

Looks good. I would have used straight grease zerks too but I didnt have any the right size.

94BULLITT · Jan 22, 2015

Scooby074 said:
Lol.. I might have to do something with it. Drill a couple holes and install some fittings . Not sure if I have clearance for much of a handle though. Ill have to look at it. The side link might be even more stiff than the top link

Looks good. I would have used straight grease zerks too but I didnt have any the right size.

IDK if grease fittings could be added to the sidelink. They may rub the threads. I have an old wrench that was cut off that is perfect for adjusting the sidelink. I keep it in the BX's toolbox but the toolbox is not on the tractor yet:laughing:

sixdogs · Jan 23, 2015

94BULLITT said:
...

...I have an old wrench that was cut off that is perfect for adjusting the sidelink. I keep it in the BX's toolbox but the toolbox is not on the tractor yet:laughing:

I think it's Harbor Freight that has a stubby adjustable wrench that's perfect for the B and BX. It's either this one 2 in 1 Wide Mouth Adjustable Wrench or one I got at Lowes. It opens wide and stores in a small space.

check · Jan 23, 2015

sixdogs said:
They make it easy to turn. It's the pressure on the link that makes it hard. Raise or lower the implement just a whisker and it will move like butter. A better way is handles like Scooby has.

Nope. It was still tough as nails even when the top link was disconnected. So I just don't get it.

sixdogs · Jan 23, 2015

check said:
Nope. It was still tough as nails even when the top link was disconnected. So I just don't get it.

When I tighten my top links I make the nut just a little tighter than hard finger tight. In use they tend to tighten themselves so if you over tighten from the start they will be very hard to get loose. Maybe?

check · Jan 24, 2015

sixdogs said:
When I tighten my top links I make the nut just a little tighter than hard finger tight. In use they tend to tighten themselves so if you over tighten from the start they will be very hard to get loose. Maybe?

Sorry, six dogs, but I'm afraid that the nuts are loose when I try turning the top link. It just seems to be that the threads are extremely tight or may be misaligned or something like that.