Mowing BX2200 Need help removing mower deck!!!

[THEDADLORD]

I'm a new Kubota owner and I'm not sure how to get the 60" mower deck separated from the PTO, so I can remove the deck for blade sharpening.
I searched through the forum and I didn't see any info on that. Any assistance is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[coveredbridge]

I'm a new Kubota owner and I'm not sure how to get the 60" mower deck separated from the PTO, so I can remove the deck for blade sharpening.
I searched through the forum and I didn't see any info on that. Any assistance is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

If your bx2200 is like my bx1500, the drive shaft on the mower has a sliding collar that attaches to the mid pto. It's kind of an awkward operation (at least to me), but you have to reach under the tractor and kind of slide the collar toward the pto, then pull it away from the pto. If the mechanism releases as it should, the shaft will come right off the pto. It might take a few tries before you get the hang of it, so be patient. It doesn't take a lot of force, but it needs to be properly applied.

 

[czechsonofagun]

I'm a new Kubota owner and I'm not sure how to get the 60" mower deck separated from the PTO, so I can remove the deck for blade sharpening.
I searched through the forum and I didn't see any info on that. Any assistance is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

On my tractor - B1750 - there is a sleve to pull back on the PTO end of the shaft that unlocks the shaft from PTO. I am sure it is going to be something similar on BX.

 

[kwolfe]

My bx1500 is the same way. Slide the outer collar back, and pull the shaft out of the tractor. It may take some pursuading depending on how long it has been since it was taken off. You may have to wrestle it a bit.

 

[Ifixcars]

I have found that lowering the deck down to it's lowest point (like it says in the book) allows extra room to get into the shaft. Forgetting to do that makes it tough.

 

[THEDADLORD]

I cannot find any type of sleeve on my PTO that could slide away. Mine looks like solid half shafts with a u-joint in the middle. I've worked on mechanisms all my life, but I'm stumped by this one.

 

[Charliebrn]

How about posting a pic? Is it a Kubota MMM? Sure doesn't sound like it.... Never seen a kubota MMM deck with a ujoint in the middle...

 

[Lockport]

I cannot find any type of sleeve on my PTO that could slide away. Mine looks like solid half shafts with a u-joint in the middle. I've worked on mechanisms all my life, but I'm stumped by this one.

South of the U-joint (not the mower end) there is an almost bell shaped apparatus end of the shaft that is the collar of the female end of the business. Pull the bell outward or back and the female end slides off the male end of the PTO. Raise you scalping wheels first, lower the cut height to 0 and drop the deck to the floor so you have lots of room before you start.

 

[schrand]

Maybe a picture will help...

 

[Tom_H]

With the deck raised, take out the wheel pins and rotate the wheels 90 degrees so that they will roll sideways; position the wheels so that the deck will sit low when you lower it. Replace the pins. Lower the deck.

On the front of the tractor, draw back the locking pin and set it into its retraction groove. Push the lever down. Remove the forward portion of the mechanism. Now, take the next section, push it back so that it uncouples from the U-hooks on the deck, and remove this section.

Beneath the tractor on each side of the deck, the lift arms need to be uncoupled. Retract the connecting pins, rotate them so that they lock in retracted position. Start the engine and lift the hitch, which also lifts these mid-tractor arms. Shut off tractor.

Go to the left side of the tractor and use your foot to push the deck sideways. This works best on paved surface. Several times, you will need to reallign and tack in slightly different directions as differing parts bump the tires to roll the deck sideways from beneath the tractor. The drive shaft will simply slide apart, taking one portion with the deck as it rolls from beneath the tractor.

Once the deck has cleared the tractor, it is very easy to position yourself beneath the tractor. Use your palm to hold the body of the coupling stationary, while your fingertips retract the coupling. Now pull backwards on the entire coupling. It will slide right off.

When done with the blades. Find the double groove keyslot and slide the two halves of the shaft back together. Roll the deck beneath the tractor and recouple at the PTO. This can be difficult for the uninitiated, but with practice comes skill and speed. Do everything else in reverse order to reattach the deck: center deck to lift arms, lower them slowly, allign and latch. Put the 2 portions of the front carriage back into place, lift the lever, set the locking pin. Start engine, lift deck. Shut down. Rotate wheels.

I have a plywood dolly with 16 2" casters for my deck, so I never have to rotate those wheels. Takes me less than 2 min. to disattach and about the same to reattach.

Good luck.

 

[mjarrels]

I never could get mine off either... I have one pin that refuses to move.

mark

 

[Lockport]

I never could get mine off either... I have one pin that refuses to move.

mark

I take mine off all the time as I always seem to find a reason to put either the BH or the Rotary Cutter back on and do not want the MMM present with either of these.

Unlike 'Tom H' I do not seperate the shaft before uncoupling the collar. Nor do I bother to turn the scalp wheels, but I do subscribe to the same technique of shoving it out from underneath with my feet while laying on the ground. The hard concrete of the garage allows ample cooperative characteristics for this to work more conveniently than turning the scalp wheels. One will still need to turn the front wheels of the tractor all the way to the right (or left) as I recall.

 

[THEDADLORD]

Gentlemen, thank you for your generous assistance. Now I see how to get that PTO disconnected. I'll work on it this weekend.

 

[rdsaustintx]

It's just a slip and a click. Keep the coupling lubed and get a little practice.

If you don't get filthy taking the MMM PTO off, you're probably not doing it right

Russell in Texas

 

[icecreamhauler]

Warning when putting shaft back on make very sure its locked back on.

 

[AceDeuce]

Warning when putting shaft back on make very sure its locked back on.

I will strongly second that advice! The mid-PTO spins at 2200 RPM. If the coupling isn't positively locked, it is very likely to slide off. And, rotating at 2200 RPM it will take out EVERYTHING under the machine. The mechanic at my dealer has told me horror stories about having to replace entire HST housings due to the PTO shaft not being 101% securely attached. Make sure you hear an audible "click" and yank on that thing HARD to make doublely sure it's on there good. The cramped quarters increase the possibility of not getting in on all the way so be patient and take your time.

 

[rixtory]

Warning when putting shaft back on make very sure its locked back on.

Oh Yeah... Stupid things to do!!!!!
Ask me about that one. I tore a ligament in my bicep while trying to lift one side of the mower deck to lean it against the shed wall.(the wheels started to roll). So my good left arm was in a lot of pain (Left-handed).
Anyways When I got back to deciding to put it back on a week later, I couldn't do much with my left arm so I had to use my right hand to put the collar back on.
Everything was fine the first spin around my 4 acres, but then I hit a bump and the tractor slowed and I heard the mower stop. I turned off the engine and hopped off on the loader control side, catching my pant leg and dumping face first onto the ground. (Neighbor watching, of course).
I right myself and realize there is a huge puddle of some kind of light clear oils all over the mower deck and that the shaft is now laying on top of the mower deck. Now I am worried!!!!

I roll the tractor off the bum and out of the puddle of hydro fluid and look under the tractor. At that point I realized just how **** lucky I was, torn bicep, falling flat on my face and all....
The shaft tore through the hydro fluid filter, almost shearing off the end of the filter. Nothing else was damaged, save some 1/16" deep scratches on the collar housing.
I went to my local stealership (Canns Bilco)and bought 2gallons of hydro and a new filter.
Asked the counter jerk if they had ever had problem with the collars not being connected right and spinning off. He looked at me like I was an idiot and said "we're not stupid enough here to do it wrong".
I left and never went back. I now either go to TSC or the other Kubota Dealer down near Pipersville, PA. or Powerco in Clinton NJ. Much better service and they don't treat you like an idiot (Even if you do something stupid)

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Rixtory,

Try these guys, I was going to Powerco but these guys are great, and I found service to be better. They are off RT46 near Hot Dog Johnny.

S & L Equipment
492 County Route 519
Belvidere, NJ 07823
Phone: (908) 475-8111
Fax: (908) 475-8277
Email: dave@slnj.com

 

[THEDADLORD]

I got the deck off following the directions from several helpful members. It was easy to get off, only took about 10 minutes. We'll see about getting it back on & aligning that splined shaft later. Thanks again for the invaluable info.

 

[techman]

I went to my local stealership (Canns Bilco)and bought 2gallons of hydro and a new filter.
Asked the counter jerk if they had ever had problem with the collars not being connected right and spinning off. He looked at me like I was an idiot and said "we're not stupid enough here to do it wrong".

Canns Bilco is the closest dealer so I used them for the purchase (it was a good deal) and I do buy most Kubota parts there, but I never ask for tech help. That is what this forum is for.

C-B managed to put my rear tires on wrong side out, and totally screwed up the drive bearing assembly on the front hitch for the snowblower. When I first went to mount it I had to dis and reassemble it correctly. A couple of years later my neighbor bought a 2200 from them along with a snowblower. Sure enough they assembled the drive bearings wrong (same as mine). Luckily I saw it and redid it for the neighbor before tragedy struck. He complained to C-B and got a gallon of S-UDT free. I guess I should have piped up as well.

BTW I use WIX engine filters. Cheaper and as good.

paul