BX2230 DIY 50 Hour Service

[Billy_S]

I was in the dealer yesterday to pick up some blades for my 60" MMM. Since the tractor has like 45 hours on it, I figured I might as well pick up everything I need for the 50 hour service.

I thought I remembered the manual just called for a fluid change, along with the trans and oil filters, but the dealer also sold me both fuel filters and an air filter. As it turns out, according to the manual, fuel and air filters are not part of the 50 hour service. Not a big deal, but kind of chaps my butt. I will just hold onto them until I need them.

When I got home last night, I looked in the manual to see if I was right or the dealer was right. One strange thing I noticed is that the manual never calls for replacement of the fuel filter. It only says to check it every 100 (I think) hours.

For those who might be interested, the dealer quoted "about $300" for the 50 hour service. I doubt that includes P&D and have no idea whether or not it includes the un-needed fuel and air filters.

I bought all the parts, including the outrageously priced Kubota 15W40 oil, for $154.29. This includes $49.74 for 3 blades, $16.35 for the air filter and $9.24 for both fuel filters. So, if my math is correct, if I were going to do the 50 hours service PER THE MANUAL, I would have $78.96 in parts cost.

Soooooo. $300 - $78.96 gives the dealer $221.04 to cover his labor. Let's assume that the dealer would have replaced the fuel and air filters. This still leaves the dealer with $195.45 for labor.

Surely I can do the 50 hour service in 4 hours. All it is is drain and fill some fluids and replace a couple of filters. How big a deal could that be? OTOH, how many projects have I attempted that have turned into major FUBARs with that attitude. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Okay, assuming I can do it in 4 hours and assuming the dealer would have replaced all the parts he sold me, my labor will amount to $48.86 per hour. I think I can make that work. Plus I would have had to have the dealer P&D the unit at another $60 so my actual time would be worth $63.86 per hour. Now keep in mind, I am not very handy at all, but I am sure I can do this job.

And now a question for all those who are FAR more knowledgeable than I am. Should I replace the fuel and air filters at 50 hours?

 

[Billy_S]

I was in the dealer yesterday to pick up some blades for my 60" MMM. Since the tractor has like 45 hours on it, I figured I might as well pick up everything I need for the 50 hour service.

I thought I remembered the manual just called for a fluid change, along with the trans and oil filters, but the dealer also sold me both fuel filters and an air filter. As it turns out, according to the manual, fuel and air filters are not part of the 50 hour service. Not a big deal, but kind of chaps my butt. I will just hold onto them until I need them.

When I got home last night, I looked in the manual to see if I was right or the dealer was right. One strange thing I noticed is that the manual never calls for replacement of the fuel filter. It only says to check it every 100 (I think) hours.

For those who might be interested, the dealer quoted "about $300" for the 50 hour service. I doubt that includes P&D and have no idea whether or not it includes the un-needed fuel and air filters.

I bought all the parts, including the outrageously priced Kubota 15W40 oil, for $154.29. This includes $49.74 for 3 blades, $16.35 for the air filter and $9.24 for both fuel filters. So, if my math is correct, if I were going to do the 50 hours service PER THE MANUAL, I would have $78.96 in parts cost.

Soooooo. $300 - $78.96 gives the dealer $221.04 to cover his labor. Let's assume that the dealer would have replaced the fuel and air filters. This still leaves the dealer with $195.45 for labor.

Surely I can do the 50 hour service in 4 hours. All it is is drain and fill some fluids and replace a couple of filters. How big a deal could that be? OTOH, how many projects have I attempted that have turned into major FUBARs with that attitude. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Okay, assuming I can do it in 4 hours and assuming the dealer would have replaced all the parts he sold me, my labor will amount to $48.86 per hour. I think I can make that work. Plus I would have had to have the dealer P&D the unit at another $60 so my actual time would be worth $63.86 per hour. Now keep in mind, I am not very handy at all, but I am sure I can do this job.

And now a question for all those who are FAR more knowledgeable than I am. Should I replace the fuel and air filters at 50 hours?

 

[Lockport]

He may have jumped you on the air filter. At 88 hours, I haven't changed mine yet. If you have an air compressor you can adapt to blowing it out to prolong changing it as they are not the cheapest.

The fuel filters are a dime a dozen (at least they are where I live) and I would change mine evereytime I change the oil. Dump the bowl in an environmentaly safe place, clean it with kerosene as recomended, fill it about half way with diesel and then submerge the filter in it as to not allow any unfiltered fuel to reach the injectors. Re attach to fuel filter housing.

When you say fluid change you make no mention on the UDT or SUDT for the hydraulics. You have to change that plus the oil. Also, don't forget to clean the metal particle screen on the transaxle itself.

I went Mobil1 Synthetic after 50 hours break in on dino oil. The little black oil filters that probably came on your tractor have synthetic media and are from Kubota Japan. I pay $100 for a half dozen in Canada merely because I'm stubborn. My dealer sells larger white cans, made here, for about $8 a pop.

I don't think 50 hr service requires changing the blades (only kidding) /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Regards
Steve

 

[Lockport]

He may have jumped you on the air filter. At 88 hours, I haven't changed mine yet. If you have an air compressor you can adapt to blowing it out to prolong changing it as they are not the cheapest.

The fuel filters are a dime a dozen (at least they are where I live) and I would change mine evereytime I change the oil. Dump the bowl in an environmentaly safe place, clean it with kerosene as recomended, fill it about half way with diesel and then submerge the filter in it as to not allow any unfiltered fuel to reach the injectors. Re attach to fuel filter housing.

When you say fluid change you make no mention on the UDT or SUDT for the hydraulics. You have to change that plus the oil. Also, don't forget to clean the metal particle screen on the transaxle itself.

I went Mobil1 Synthetic after 50 hours break in on dino oil. The little black oil filters that probably came on your tractor have synthetic media and are from Kubota Japan. I pay $100 for a half dozen in Canada merely because I'm stubborn. My dealer sells larger white cans, made here, for about $8 a pop.

I don't think 50 hr service requires changing the blades (only kidding) /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Regards
Steve

 

[Billy_S]

>>If you have an air compressor you can adapt to blowing it out to prolong changing it as they are not the cheapest. <<

I had it out the other day and blew it out. It still looked new. I definitely don't intend to replace the air filter.

>> clean it with kerosene as recomended, <<

Clean the fuel filters? I thought you just replaced them. I am confused.

>>you make no mention on the UDT or SUDT for the hydraulics. <<

Yes, the price I paid included 2 3/4 gallons of SUDT.

>>Also, don't forget to clean the metal particle screen on the transaxle itself. <<

Hmmmm. Don't think I know anything about that. Where is it?

>>I went Mobil1 Synthetic<<

I will probably go with Rotella next time. The Kubota oil is just too expensive at the dealer. Although, since it takes less than 3 quarts, it isn't a big deal.

Thanks a lot for your help.

 

[Billy_S]

>>If you have an air compressor you can adapt to blowing it out to prolong changing it as they are not the cheapest. <<

I had it out the other day and blew it out. It still looked new. I definitely don't intend to replace the air filter.

>> clean it with kerosene as recomended, <<

Clean the fuel filters? I thought you just replaced them. I am confused.

>>you make no mention on the UDT or SUDT for the hydraulics. <<

Yes, the price I paid included 2 3/4 gallons of SUDT.

>>Also, don't forget to clean the metal particle screen on the transaxle itself. <<

Hmmmm. Don't think I know anything about that. Where is it?

>>I went Mobil1 Synthetic<<

I will probably go with Rotella next time. The Kubota oil is just too expensive at the dealer. Although, since it takes less than 3 quarts, it isn't a big deal.

Thanks a lot for your help.

 

[Lockport]

<<Clean the fuel filters? I thought you just replaced them. I am confused.>>

No, no, cleaning the glass bowl with kerosene is recomended, I never do.

If you can see light through your air filter it should be fine.

The metal particle screen will have some metal shavings it has caught, as any new machine will. It is in the manual. It is a large bolt on the left side of the transaxle looking forward and is, I think, 22mm. It is somewhat below and rearward of the afle. Make sure you have the right one as I heard of someone in the group undoing another bolt and a spring and a bunch of parts went flying. As you draw it out it is attached to about 3" of a cylindrical mesh screen, the bolt comprising its head. Clean it of any metal debris and reinsert. This, of course is AFTER you have drained the UDT!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Lockport]

<<Clean the fuel filters? I thought you just replaced them. I am confused.>>

No, no, cleaning the glass bowl with kerosene is recomended, I never do.

If you can see light through your air filter it should be fine.

The metal particle screen will have some metal shavings it has caught, as any new machine will. It is in the manual. It is a large bolt on the left side of the transaxle looking forward and is, I think, 22mm. It is somewhat below and rearward of the afle. Make sure you have the right one as I heard of someone in the group undoing another bolt and a spring and a bunch of parts went flying. As you draw it out it is attached to about 3" of a cylindrical mesh screen, the bolt comprising its head. Clean it of any metal debris and reinsert. This, of course is AFTER you have drained the UDT!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Billy_S]

[quote<snipped>
The metal particle screen will have some metal shavings it has caught, as any new machine will. It is in the manual. <snipped>
)</font>

If it is in the manual, I will figure it out. I just don't recall reading anything about it. I even have the shop manual, so I should be covered.

 

[Billy_S]

[quote<snipped>
The metal particle screen will have some metal shavings it has caught, as any new machine will. It is in the manual. <snipped>
)</font>

If it is in the manual, I will figure it out. I just don't recall reading anything about it. I even have the shop manual, so I should be covered.