BX2230 maximum side hill angle?

[andyrud]

Is there a maximum side hill angle designated for a BX 2230? I read everywhere to be careful when side hilling but I can't find a specific angle to stay away from. I don't like the idea to keep trying steeper and steeper side hill until I tip over!!

Thanks in advance,
Andy R

 

[Eagle1]

A lot depends what is on the tractor. With just the belly mower it very stable. Put on just the loader and it is pretty unstable in side hills. Fill the bucket and raise above the hood and hitting rock or hole will put you up on one wheel or worse. Add some counter weight and it's better. I learned to feel my way around any given area around my 90+ acres in various configurations. Slow and alert has prevented me from going over (knocks on wood) but I've been on 1 wheel more than once. If it feels wrong, I just find another way. Done a lot of trail leveling over the years to let take full bucket loads to places.

 

[JWR]

No. There is no maximum slope angle specified for any tractor and there never will be. Can you imagine the legal dept. in any tractor manufacturer approving such ? Obviously NOT !! Of course people on TBN where you just posted will have lots of recommendations, descriptions of how to be careful, etc. but none will tell you your BX is only good for 23.8 degrees or less. That's N/A.

So now that you opened yourself to this I will take 2 minutes and comment:
1) It depends mainly on the spacing of your rear wheels versus the height from the ground of your center of gravity (c.g.) for the machine. Within reason of other parameters like whether it is muddy, sandy, gravel or sod, etc.
2) I have a BX2200 and have had it tip up a little bit on one side / wheels a few times. ALWAYS triggered by having a heavy load in the front end loader and lifting that too high while on a slope. That is an example of a way to raise the c.g. and one of the most common ways to turn one over.
3) Many folks have inclinometers or ways to measure hillside slopes. If you were really that hot on the topic you can mount one on your tractor which would be foolish since you have no real business operating in steep side slopes to start with. It is called "judgement." You can also download an image of protractor and print it out on a piece of paper and use a paper clip for a weight and a thumbtack for the pivot and measure a slope for your self. Fun to go around and measure the slope and see the numbers for what your eye tells you is steep.
4) The BX (and most of the smaller Kubotas) have the rear wheels not only too close together AND not adjustable so you have no recourse to enable operating on "steep ground." There are commercial spacers from several sources including Kubota dealers to move your rear wheels further apart and increase your margin of comfort and safety. I have done that on a B2150 but not on the BX2200. These sometimes interfere with your mower deck so don't leap right out and spend hundred of $ on that just yet.
5) In my opinion you will not have tipping issues with the standard BX if you avoid slopes in excess of around 35 to 40% (around 20 degrees.) Assuming you keep the front end loader very low, etc.

Larger tractors are a very different ballgame but the principles are the same.

 

[Eagle1]

I'll add I routinely cut sections across the slope with my MMM that I would not drive with the tractor and an empty loader.
Up - Down sure - across No Way.
I'm learning my way around in LS XG3135H right now, much more stable than the BX but still feeling it out. For some things the little BX is better tool. I've got 4500 hours on the BX less than 100 on the LS. I know what the little tractor will do, have not found the stupid with the bigger one. Sure I'll find it in due time.

 

[M59]

Is there a maximum side hill angle designated for a BX 2230? I read everywhere to be careful when side hilling but I can't find a specific angle to stay away from. I don't like the idea to keep trying steeper and steeper side hill until I tip over!!

Thanks in advance,
Andy R

I will paraphrase Post #3. NO

Crossing a hill sideways must always be done with great care since you may do it once and a week later take the same track across the hill and drop a lower wheel into a ground hog hole and roll the tractor because what used to be a safe condition changed because of that varmit.

Always travel up and down a hill when doing work and approach crossing a hill with great caution.

 

[CurtisC]

One additional stability factor to keep in mind. Because most if not all 4 wheeled tractor front axles connect to the frame through a center pivot, the front axle provides essentially no roll-over stability on side hill ops. All stability comes from the rear axle. As mentioned, raising the CG increases rollover risk, but also keep in mind that moving it forward has the same effect. Consider a kids' tricycle with the rider leaning out over the front wheel. Thats why dropping the whole FEL (if possible) or even the bucket for those that have Q/A ftgs. is an improvement. Wheel weights and filled rear tires are a typical solution, a rear mounted weight basket is even more effective. For those that have a B/H, extending it aft and swinging it uphill provides the best solution for side slope work. I use the FEL to clean out ditches on fairly steep drive that I could not otherwise do without using the B/H as an adjustable rear mounted counterweight.
Keep the weight low and aft (total C/G over the rear axle) to provide the maximum side hill stability.

 

[dj1701]

If your ass starts to pucker, you've gone too far Hoss. If it feels bad, it is bad.

 

[Smokeydog]

One additional stability factor to keep in mind. Because most if not all 4 wheeled tractor front axles connect to the frame through a center pivot, the front axle provides essentially no roll-over stability on side hill ops. All stability comes from the rear axle. As mentioned, raising the CG increases rollover risk, but also keep in mind that moving it forward has the same effect. Consider a kids' tricycle with the rider leaning out over the front wheel. Thats why dropping the whole FEL (if possible) or even the bucket for those that have Q/A ftgs. is an improvement. Wheel weights and filled rear tires are a typical solution, a rear mounted weight basket is even more effective. For those that have a B/H, extending it aft and swinging it uphill provides the best solution for side slope work. I use the FEL to clean out ditches on fairly steep drive that I could not otherwise do without using the B/H as an adjustable rear mounted counterweight.
Keep the weight low and aft (total C/G over the rear axle) to provide the maximum side hill stability.

Agree. Rear wheel width makes a huge difference too. Had to use 2” wheel extensions on the B26 to be comfortable mowing on our hillside.

Tilt meters help to give you an idea but would not rely on them to prevent rollover. Too many variables and changing dynamics. Go low and slow.