The RPM is a function of power, and when I am going uphill, which is often, without the throttle at full, I am not going to get sufficient rotation of the blades on the deck. I'll check the mower manual to be sure, though.
The RPM is a function of power, and when I am going uphill, which is often, without the throttle at full, I am not going to get sufficient rotation of the blades on the deck. I'll check the mower manual to be sure, though.
Volfandt
When I run my CR behind my BX I pin the 3PH attachment up so it's locked using the tractors locking feature. this put's the 3PH and CR at just about the right height and I can adjust the deck height as I mow without changing the 3PH level.
Volfandt
When I run my CR behind my BX I pin the 3PH attachment up so it's locked using the tractors locking feature. this put's the 3PH and CR at just about the right height and I can adjust the deck height as I mow without changing the 3PH level.
To limit the damage done to the aspen trees and any other trees or shrubs :
You may be able to find yourself a 18" length of automoble heater hose either 3/4" or perhaps abit better would be 1/2" dia. with the nylon reinforcing threads. Slice lengthwise the entire length. Then burn off the fraided ends with a lighter or something. Slip this over the edge of the discharge chute. and trim it to the proper lenght. I am not sure if it'll stay in place though.
I did the same thing on my CJ-5 body, as I noticed allot of paint wear from access/egress to the seats along the edge of the body. I was able to use the heater hose for a factory like fit, but had to rivet it to the body using SS washers to broaden the contact patch of the rivet. Its held up for 15 years.
Somthing to think about, but not sure you want to drill that pretty deck. If you do, get the touch up paint for the holes and ensure you have a good seal on the bottom of the deck to prevent it from being a moisture trap.
To limit the damage done to the aspen trees and any other trees or shrubs :
You may be able to find yourself a 18" length of automoble heater hose either 3/4" or perhaps abit better would be 1/2" dia. with the nylon reinforcing threads. Slice lengthwise the entire length. Then burn off the fraided ends with a lighter or something. Slip this over the edge of the discharge chute. and trim it to the proper lenght. I am not sure if it'll stay in place though.
I did the same thing on my CJ-5 body, as I noticed allot of paint wear from access/egress to the seats along the edge of the body. I was able to use the heater hose for a factory like fit, but had to rivet it to the body using SS washers to broaden the contact patch of the rivet. Its held up for 15 years.
Somthing to think about, but not sure you want to drill that pretty deck. If you do, get the touch up paint for the holes and ensure you have a good seal on the bottom of the deck to prevent it from being a moisture trap.
I use those holder holes when I use my 3PH drawbar but thought they held the cyclone rake bracket up too high to work w/my homemade CR front dollie. If I decide to modify the dollie they would work.
The checkchain is just too easy to use /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
What size CR do you have? I have the platnum and would have gone to the pro model if I had it to do over again.
I use those holder holes when I use my 3PH drawbar but thought they held the cyclone rake bracket up too high to work w/my homemade CR front dollie. If I decide to modify the dollie they would work.
The checkchain is just too easy to use /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
What size CR do you have? I have the platnum and would have gone to the pro model if I had it to do over again.
That sounds like a good idea. I doubt it will stay in place as I jostle around the rolling hills in my yard, though, so I might need to just buy a piece of black plastic weatherstripping with a firm edge and drill a couple of screws into the cover plate to hold it.
I need to do this soon. Today, I got too close to an oak tree, shaving off a good chunk of bark next to the ground, ever fearful of oak wilt disease, I checked the DNR website and it suggested a thin coat of latex paint to hide the wound from bugs.
That sounds like a good idea. I doubt it will stay in place as I jostle around the rolling hills in my yard, though, so I might need to just buy a piece of black plastic weatherstripping with a firm edge and drill a couple of screws into the cover plate to hold it.
I need to do this soon. Today, I got too close to an oak tree, shaving off a good chunk of bark next to the ground, ever fearful of oak wilt disease, I checked the DNR website and it suggested a thin coat of latex paint to hide the wound from bugs.
