BX23 Cream colored hydraulic fluid after 2 exchanges

[tshep]

As above!

Sequence
Had a mowing at remote field.
Topped up fluid with 'trusted', nearly empty 5 gal can.
Saw clear fluid, stopped. Didn't separate in sample jar, just weird to me.
Finished with opening new 5 gal can.
Did mowing job, no problem.
Returning machine, noticed leaking hose on backhoe bucket, and cream colored fluid. Now worried.

Got hose remade, and tackled fluid.

Drained, and refilled before operating.
On start, power drained loader cylinders to clear fluid, one cycle each way, drained other side.
Continued operating, with through all functions and positions many times.
Back to cream.
Half a bottle seafoam transmission, soak, all positions again.

Drained, and refilled again.
Power flushed BH takeoff to amber - encouraged!
(As i thought a suction leak would show instantly here - first output after pump.)
Went through all positions, back to cream.
Another half bottle seafoam transmission, soak, all position again.
Still creamy.

So, 2 full flushes on tractor and loader.
A sample bottle that sat for hours is still creamy, no separating, as is the original dump from tractor.
My newly installed fluid gets worse with operation.

Hold my hand, how many $25 flushes?
How many operating cycles might clear the cylinders?
If the problem is water, and IF I got most of it, is it safe to keep cycling?
Will water never settled back out, would air separate eventually in sample bottle?
I don't have any need for machine 2 weeks.

Should I ditch the loader, and work just to prove the tractor good?

THX guys!

 

[crashz]

I don't know how much trans fluid a BX has, but for $25, must not be much in the sump. With backhoe and loader, you probably have as much in the implement and steering as the sump. Keep flushing until clear. You cannot get the water out without heat and it's really not worth it.

Next immediate step, find out where its coming from.

 

[tshep]

$25 is half a TSC cheapie fluid 5 gal ($50) - just for flushing.
Common wisdom is 2 1/2 gals for trans fill, I'm going 2 3/4 on some?
Starting my second bucker later...

Hadn't thought to spin steering to exercise...

You reminded me though, I believe I will 'boil' some and see if water leaves - to confirm water and not air.

 

[crashz]

Air will dissipate pretty quickly. I would assume in an hour if it is really whipped. Water can emulsify and stay in the oil for long periods. That is mayonnaise.

Does the tractor stay outdoors? How does the the vent look?

 

[tshep]

Air will dissipate pretty quickly. I would assume in an hour if it is really whipped. Water can emulsify and stay in the oil for long periods. That is mayonnaise.

Does the tractor stay outdoors? How does the the vent look?

I pretty sure I know the initial cause - the bad 'trusted' can I didn't look at before I poured (when I saw clear liquid and stopped). No troubles ever before, only since that error.
My problem is clearing the now bad fluid.
Today's plan is run on bad fluid, and position loader to drain before taking it off (so I can take off each cylinder at one end and swing to drain it and its hoses). I have spare male/female quick disconnects to aid draining.
Then get the tractor itself clear. Will drain again, and try to drain steering system, BH and loader feeds, filter, and anything else we can think of?

 

[nyone]

Just keep draining and filling after cycling all the cylinders. I had to do this once on a b8200 and took almost 15gal to get clear fluid...about 3 flushes.

Walmart has some cheap crap fluid that's decent to flush with. Sinopec I believe is the name.

 

[SPYDERLK]

$25 is half a TSC cheapie fluid 5 gal ($50) - just for flushing.
Common wisdom is 2 1/2 gals for trans fill, I'm going 2 3/4 on some?
Starting my second bucker later...

Hadn't thought to spin steering to exercise...

You reminded me though, I believe I will 'boil' some and see if water leaves - to confirm water and not air.

Boiling will get the water out, but 212F is not good for the oil. If you know someone with a vacuum pump and bell jar you can do it at room temp in an hour or so.

 

[tshep]

Ok, me again.
First, I meant just boil a small bit to see if the water left - to prove it was indeed water.

Thorough draining this time:
Dropped loader valve hoses to pipes to drain, subbed in my open quick disconnects to allow vent, moved handle to each position for a good bit.
Dropped steering cylinder, to rotate to drain, rotate wheel to vent.
Gonna' crack 3 point lift and PTO clutch line to drain what I can...
Next to last, rock tractor left side up to ensure drain to right side.
Last, fill and fresh flush each line in schematic order very slowly before reconnect.

 

[Tx Jim]

I've been told one can heat oil that contains water & it will have a crackling sound when heated.

Have you checked hyd reservoir vent to be sure it's not clogged?

 

[tshep]

I found my water source.
The SUD2 spout had failed, and let the clear liquid into my 'trusted' can.
So no machine problems, strictly system 'operator' failure.

Solutions!
After buying the second (though cheap) 5 gal from TSC, I ditched the loader and opened everything I could get to easily. Opened the 3 lines to the loader valve, dropped the steering cylinder and rotated to drain, used extra QCs to open the BH feed, dropped 3 point, and left the filter off. Cycled all positions and QC options to allow any self venting for draining.
Then I filled and went by the schematic and common sense and ran a bit until a loader line cleared, attached, the other power side cleared and attached, worked the steering until both sides cleared, attached, work the return until filter input cleared, attached, and the last loader line cleared itself when rev'ed (back pressure on tank line?).
Hit all functions and still amber colored fluid! So I must have gotten enough out not to ruin fill number 3 (which took 4 gals after flushing and refilling cylinders and lines).
I have a tractor cleared and will slowly do loader cylinders next.