BX23 with hoe and FEL owners

[DannyD]

I need to ask what kind of trailer, or setup do you use. My delema is this, I measure a 7.5 inch clearance from the hoe base plate to the earth. If I have to much incline onto a trailer I believe this will get into whatever the trailer is setting on.

My dealer has 18' dovetail trailers with 3 foot ramps, but I am thinking 4 foot ramps would be a more subtle incline and would prove to not have the base plate of the hoe bottoming out as I load up the trailer.

Anyone that has this conquered, please let me know. I have him pricing me a trailer setup, but still not sure what he suggested would work.

thanks.

 

[jpr62902]

Danny,

Here's a pic of my BX22 on a 12' trailer. As you can see, the trailer's just a bit too short. It also had too much tongue weight (although not enough to create handling problems in my truck at or below 55 mph).

The BH just barely cleared the ground, whether going forward or backward on to the trailer. I believe the ramp was 4'.

 

[jpr62902]

Here's a pic of the 16' trailer I just bought. Again 4' ramps. I haven't hauled the tractor with it yet, but it should do just fine.

 

[DannyD]

I looked at a trailer just like your new one, but was concerned about the tailgate/ramp not being beefy enough for the 23 with the hoe, MMM, and FEL. The one you have has more bars in the tailgate though. I believe this one had only 5. I measured my tractor in full armor, 15' plus or minus an inch or so, I am hoping to get an 18' since I may want to haul the tiller also, or something else along with the tractor. I guess if I dont have the length, then I wont be tempted to use it though. What width did you get, I may have to put the deflector on the MMM up, but I am going with 6' 4" this time.

Where did you get the trailer, and if you dont mind, what price range was it in. Here I am looking at 1195.00 to 1595.00, and that is with 4 foot ramps, dovetail end, and sides like you have on yours. I could live without the sides, as I can put side boards on it anytime, and for hauling loose product, I would have to do that anyway.

Thanks for sharing the photos and the info, it is exactly what I wanted to know.

 

[RonR]

Hi Danny,

I bought a 14 foot single axle trailer with a tailgate just like jpr's pic. I was concerned both with the clearance issue and the strength of the gate.

The clearance hasn't been an issue; my box blade can scrape a little if it is tilted all the way back. I've placed 2x4 scraps under the end of the ramp and that has fixed that issue.

I was most concerned about my MMM clearing when the wheels went over the top of the ramp. This was a non-issue since the back of the trailer sinks as the tractor goes up. This reduces the angle at the top of the ramp. I don't know how you would ever calculate that--trial and error driving your tractor up with it hooked to your truck...............

The final concern was an easy fix also. The supports in the end gate were not centered on my tires. I measured the center of my tires, cut two pieces of 2x2 1/8" angle (like what was in the ramp), and welded it in at the wheel spacing. Sprayed it black and life was grand. Now my wheels roll up right over the new braces.

While at it, I welded a "D" ring to the top of the endgate in case I want to hang it somewhere or lift it with the FEL.

(You might notice I took the rails off at the rear--had to-- My BB was 4 inches wider than the rails!)

Enjoy,
Ron

 

[DannyD]

Thanks Ron,

That is a nice trailer you have there, I like the rounded tailgate. My guess is that the dealer would put in the extra angle if I asked him nice enough. I may have to take the tractor out there and just give it a shot. I am more concerned with the BH hitting on less than 4 foot ramps.

TBN is such a great place for help, thanks so much!

 

[RonR]

Thanks Danny,

I looked long and hard to find one that had angle iron rails, a ramp PLUS the 2x4 stake holders. I can unbolt the angle iron rails and build sides if I want to.

The rails are 10" tall. I needed to haul some broken concrete, so I took some 1 x 10 boards, screwed some 2x4s to it so they would fit in the stake holders. Now I can slip in the sides with the rail on--the rail holds the top in place (sorry, no pic of this).

I figure with two in college now, the trailer will get 4 FT sides at some point and become a kid mover a few times.

I can pull the endgate off by unpinning the fold up latch and pulling the gate to the right about 6". Then I have nice trailer for hauling lumber.

Mine is a PJ made in TX. For ref, I paid $950 for the 5x14 single axle, no brakes this spring. I needed narrow to fit in the backyard, but the more I drive it, the more I like it--it doesn't stick out in traffic like a six footer would.

If your dealer is close, I'd see if you can take your stuff in, hook it up and load it up to check it. Or ask him to let you take it home and load it.

Best wishes,
Ron

 

[LarryG]

I have a 16 footer with the 4 foot ramps like jpr62902. It is a 7000 lb. tandem axle with 1 foot sides that have mesh on them. I have the BX2200 with curtis cab, FEL, tiller and box blade. I don't have any problems loading or unloading with anything hitting. I have also hauled my son's car from Buffalo, NY to Connecticut and my nephew's Jeep from Buffalo, NY to Georgia with no problems at all. The trailer is more than heavy enough and handled great. Even above 70 MPH. I wouldn't worry about the mesh ramps as long as there is some angle iron supports in them as well. Even if you tires don't line up perfectly, as long as they are on some part of the supports.

 

[jpr62902]

Danny,

I paid $1200, but that was thru a friend of mine. The trailer is 75 1/2" wide, has brakes on one axle, a breakaway package, and is fabricated from 2 1/2" X 1 1/2" channel steel, so its pretty substantial (1285 lbs.). The ramps are split and supported with the same steel, 12" on center.