BX25 hydraulic top link

[Jeff H]

The stock threaded top link on my BX25 travels from approx. 14" to 22"

I have been looking at some of the products mentioned here on TBN but have not found an exact match in a hydraulic top link.

Surplus Center has one 18.125" to 26.375" https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009110121470013&item=9-7682-08&catname=hydraulic

CCM shows 14" to 18" for Kubota BX, but they also show a 16" to 22.5" which seems a better compromise. Tractor Hydraulic toplinks, Top-N-Tilt, Side link cylinders

Is there one out there that is 14" to 22" just like the stock link?

I do see that Surplus Center has some that are closer in length if you search for "swivel eye" cylinders instead of "top links" but they don't have the check valve.

If you are settling for a compromise, what retracted-extended lengths are you other BX owners using?

 

[J_J]

I believe the threaded rod top link is actually longer than you really need. So a hyd top link would raise the implement a certain amount, or push down a certain distance. Which mode is more critical to you, lifting or down pressure? Try adjusting the threaded rod and see what range you need for all your implements. Measure the distance the 3pt pulls back or lowers, and that should be close, unless you just want more.

 

[radioman]

whats the check valve for and why can't the swivel eyes be used ?

 

[J_J]

The check valve is so the cylinders do not leak down after setting to a set position. Swivel eyes are normally used. The ones on Surplus Hyd do not have the check valve. The check valve add to the cost of the cylinder. You could put an external check on then if necessary.

 

[jinman]

Jeff, I think you'd be happier with the 14 to 18 HTL from CCM. I don't own a BX, but I did use a HTL on my tractor that was 2" longer than the OEM toplink and it would not let me set my scarifiers down on my boxblade. I think having the minimum dimension is much more important than the maximum. What I would do is to adjust your manual toplink to the 14" dimension and look at it. Then, adjust it to 18" and look at it again. If that fits your needs, go with the CCM.

For all kinds of reasons that have be hashed and rehashed here on TBN, I'd surely recommend the CCM toplink or the Surplus Center toplink with the DPOCVs. I've had both and would not have another toplink without the check valves. Also, use 1/4" hoses. You don't need a lot of flow for a HTL. The 1/4" hoses will be easy to route and manage.

 

[Jeff H]

Thank you all for your input. I am new to being a tractor owner. I am surprised that the after market accessories industry for tractors is not more accommodating.

If this were the 4x4 trucks, diesel trucks, motorcycles, antique cars hobby, etc, someone would surely capitalize on the chance to make an exact fit (14" to 22") part for a popular make (Kubota BX series).

 

[skipmarcy]

Here's the link I built. I bought the cylinder (2.5"x8"), pilot check valve & hoses from Surplus Center. The cylinder originally had clevis ends, I bought 2 weld-on swivel eye ends from Tractor Supply and cut them off by hand with a hacksaw. I was able to get the exact length I needed this way to fit my tractor's needs. Borrowed a friend's welder and installed the swivel ends. This rig has worked well for about 5 years for me so far and it has taken quite a bit of heavy work. I've got less than $180 in the whole thing, fittings and all.

For most of my uses, the ability to go shorter is more important than going longer, especially for the boxblade and bushog and transporting the finish mower. I used my boxblade as the guide when figuring the length I needed and it worked well for everything else. For my 2 bottom plow I have to use a very long top link and it's the only implement I can't use my cylinder with and have a dedicated mechanical link set for it.

 

[radioman]

I checked the surplus version- you are right, the one with a check valve looks like the right size, but it's too long for the BX. Surplus doesnt sell one seperately just like the one in the picture! SO my question is can you can the one from surplus center 1.5X8X1 DA HYD CYL SWIVEL EYES and add the small professional looking check valve from another site to it? it would be a better fit.

 

[J_J]

Yes. you could put a pilot operated check valve on the cylinder but they ain't cheap. You could also add a needle valve to close off the fluid at the set position.

 

[CHDinCT]

I added an HTL to my BX last Spring. I read various post here about the shorter lenght of the top link being more important than the fully extended length and decided to go with a SC swivel eye 13"-19" cylinder. This was the closest I could find to the stock 14"-22" top link. Unlike most, however, I wish I had gone longer, but this could be implement dependent. I have a relatively short, older Woods rear blade that when the 3PH is fully down, won't touch the ground unless the HTL is about 2/3rds extended. Similar for my rake, but not as bad. If I had a longer HTL, I could set both at a more aggressive angle. My el cheapo solution was to drill another set of holes in the lower 3PH links about 1.5" closer to the tractor. This allows the ends of the lower links to drop closer to the ground.

I don't think I would have been happy with the lenght of the CCM 14"-18" cylinder so I"m glad I didn't spend the extra for it.

I will say that my HTL with no check valves does leak down if I have an implement up off the ground for any lenght of time. Check valves would be nice, but for my uses, I couldn't justify the extra cost.

Good luck with your decision.

Oh, one other thing. If you get the SC swivel eye cylinder, watch out for the cylinder port nearer the tractor contacting your top link bracket. I mounted mine with the ports facing up and when I raised the hitch all the way up, the 90* elbow hit the top link bracket and got sheared right off. I now have the ports facing down to avoid this happening again.

 

[J_J]

Your leak down could just as easily be the control valve, and not the cyl.

 

[CHDinCT]

Your leak down could just as easily be the control valve, and not the cyl.

True, but I somehow doubt it. I'd have to try another cylinder to see, but I don't have one just laying around. Wouldn't check valves solve either issue? Can you suggest a low cost option? I see check valves at SC, but not sure which is best for my issue.

 

[J_J]

You could use a pilot operated check valve, but they are expensive. You could also use a needle valve located at the control to stop all fluid flow. If the cylinder is bypassing, it will try to equalize pressure. You can test your cylinder by pressurizing one side of your cyl, and see if fluid is coming out the open port.

 

[J_J]

Try this company for hyd products. check and lock valves

Hydraulic Cylinder Components, Products

 

[jinman]

Here's the link I built. I bought the cylinder (2.5"x8"), pilot check valve & hoses from Surplus Center. The cylinder originally had clevis ends, I bought 2 weld-on swivel eye ends from Tractor Supply and cut them off by hand with a hacksaw. I was able to get the exact length I needed this way to fit my tractor's needs. Borrowed a friend's welder and installed the swivel ends. This rig has worked well for about 5 years for me so far and it has taken quite a bit of heavy work. I've got less than $180 in the whole thing, fittings and all.

For most of my uses, the ability to go shorter is more important than going longer, especially for the boxblade and bushog and transporting the finish mower. I used my boxblade as the guide when figuring the length I needed and it worked well for everything else. For my 2 bottom plow I have to use a very long top link and it's the only implement I can't use my cylinder with and have a dedicated mechanical link set for it.

Skip, that is one of the ugliest toplinks I think I have ever seen. Who cares? If it works and doesn't get in the way of things, it's perfect. The hoses do look a little short. Do you have a full range of motion with them? I think you and Rob (3RRL) should get DIY awards for your links with DPOCVs. Great job!

 

[jinman]

I added an HTL to my BX last Spring. I read various post here about the shorter lenght of the top link being more important than the fully extended length and decided to go with a SC swivel eye 13"-19" cylinder. This was the closest I could find to the stock 14"-22" top link. Unlike most, however, I wish I had gone longer, but this could be implement dependent....

Chris, my first HTL was about 2" longer than my OEM toplink. I have one boxblade with scarifiers that rotate forward when the HTL is extended just enough that they catch the cleats of the rear tires if the 3PH is lifted. The boxblade really jumped when it happened, but the tire wasn't badly damaged. After that, I quit extending the HTL all the way and/or lifting the 3PH while it was extended.

You just have to consider that when the HTL extends, anything below the lift arm pins will be coming forward. Depending on the implement, as you stated, too long can be a problem. Also, if you get the HTL too short, you will lose the triangulation of the 3PH hitch and the toplink will go over-center and down as the implement engages the ground. All tractors and implements have a minimum and maximum length. The easy way I always suggest is to measure the min and max of the OEM toplink and try to stay in those parameters. If you can't match them exactly, then you will have to experiment with your tractor and implements and use the necessary caution. If not, you'll be like me and experience both the scarifiers into cleats and the overcenter of the toplink at some point.

 

[CHDinCT]

jinman, don't have a box blade at this point nor any plans for one right now. There is no way any of my 3PH implements could hit the tires that I can see, but I could see where a BB with the scarifiers up front and pointing towards the tractor could be a problem.

My OEM top link is 14"-22". Couldn't match that so I went with 13"-19" which gave me an extra inch on the short side while sacrificing 3" on the long side. What would be nice is a 14" cylinder with an 8" stroke to match my OEM top link, but they just don't make one (that I can find) I now know I should have gone 15" -23" (IIRC - next size up had an 8" stroke). In a perfect world, I'd have both but that ain't happening.