BX2660 Removing FEL

[gadgetguitar]

I have searched this forum for removing the FEL from a BX. I cannot find my problem, sorry if it is posted somewhere. Following the directions in the manual, I cannot get the FEL to lift out of the base. I lower the stand, lower the bucket to 20 degrees to lift the front wheels, pull the pins, and lift bucket back to level. It says the bucket should lift out of the assembly. What am I missing?

 

[BXpanded]

Remove on flat surface only! If you get the loader off on an uneven surface it's difficult to get back on when you know how! It's almost impossible if you've never done it before.

Curl the bucket back slightly. Lower the bucket till the stand touches the ground. From here on, only the curl function is used. (handle moved left or right, no forward or back!) "Dump" the bucket (handle right) until the cutting edge hits the ground and continue dumping until the weight is off the front wheels. Pull the pins. Curl the bucket (handle left) in the load direction. DO NOT raise bucket. When you curl past level the loader frame should rock forward and disengage from the tractor. Back up about 6 inches. Unplug the Hydraulics.

 

[newbury]

Is there a video on youtube?

 

[BXpanded]

YouTube - Bxanded Loader Dolly Removal Demonstration

Works the same way on the ground.

 

[KeithInSpace]

Works the same way on the ground.

Curious, though...you don't turn the tractor off to disconnect the hydraulics.

On my 2230, I have 3 hoses and reconnect one of them to the tractor to complete the hydraulic loop. If I don't have the tractor turned off when I've de-coupled that line the pressure builds and it's all but impossible to get back on.

Is the newer generation different than that? Just want to make sure the OP is aware just in case the video was created for 'demonstration' purposes and doesn't show him farting around with a screwdriver trying to relieve pressure out of the line for reconnection...

 

[BXpanded]

The later versions have a different hydraulic valve set up. No loop to restore. The loader valve stays on the tractor. Four quick connects, just snap 'em loose. You can unhook without shutting off the engine. You can actually reach the pins and connectors and completely unhook without leaving the seat.

 

[gadgetguitar]

So, I did exactly as stated above. When rolling the bucket back to put the front wheels on the ground, it does not lift the booms at the connection. It rolls the tractor. I am doing this on my concrete floor. Could the new paint be sticking? The right side will start to go up but not far enough to drive out from the hook.

 

[KeithInSpace]

The loader valve stays on the tractor.

Forgot about the valve staying on the tractor. That makes sense. Out of curiosity, what happens if you bump the loader lever without the loader attached. Is it difficult to reconnect the lines?

Could the new paint be sticking?

That was my thought...tight tolerances. I know the 'pockets' where my FEL attaches don't have much paint remaining on them.

I'd break out the rubber mallet and give it a few love taps.

I promise, it DOES come off. After the first time or two, it'll become second nature.

 

[BXpanded]

So, I did exactly as stated above. When rolling the bucket back to put the front wheels on the ground, it does not lift the booms at the connection. It rolls the tractor. I am doing this on my concrete floor. Could the new paint be sticking? The right side will start to go up but not far enough to drive out from the hook.

There's no need to actually raise the front wheels off the ground.
Curl the bucket back at the beginning. Lower the loader and put the stand on the ground. (you do have the stand locked in the down position, right?) Apply just enough down pressure to take the slack out of the stand. Roll the bucket forward just enough to unload the pins. Pull the pins. Curl the bucket rearward and the rear should lift clear of the hooks. If not, stomp on the front of the bucket. (It will be up in the air if the loader is stuck in the hooks.) Obviously, don't have any toes, etc under anything as you do all this!

If you move the loader lever with the lines unhooked it still doesn't make it hard to connect. At worst, just wiggle the control lever with the engine off and all the pressure is relieved. There's actually a little lever that locks the control lever so you can't accidentally activate it.

 

[gadgetguitar]

I will try again tonight after watching you video and reading you post. Good stuff. I did read somewhere to have the throttle about 1/4. Is this what you would recommend?