C-Farmall

[Nat]

I picked up a C-farmall today and will be doing some repairs,painting, decals, and converting to 12 volts. To cold for me to take pics today, but I will take some tomorrow, and will update till finished. I'm putting on a 3PH, and may make it a keeper. I have a 3000 ford with a FEL, but use it rarely so I may sell it after the C is finished. Pics and updates to follow, Later, Nat

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Right On! Right On! Right On! Good luck with the C. What year? Did you get any implements with it? BobG in VA who has a "few" Farmalls.

 

[Gunfighter]

Farmall C is a nice little tractor, good restoration project. Finding parts
thus far have not been a problem.. I have two Farmalls, one 48 C and
one 53/54 Super C with a 2 pt Fast Hitch...

Have fun with your project, take care designing the 3 point as it's very
important you get the pulling points right...

Richard
West Michigan

Farmall C
Farmall Super C
IH 340 U...

 

[Nat]

Thanks for the replies. I took a couple pics this morning.
Does anyone have a 3ph on a C that I can see pics of?
I've built a 3ph for several different tractors over the years, but this is the first C. I can use a linlage from the current lift, or I also have a valve for a remote cyl for it also. I would rether use the lift with linkage from the front, but will add a seperate cylinder if needed. Any help appreciated, later, Nat

 

[timb]

Worksaver makes one to fit a C.

Worksaver Hitch

 

[BobG_in_VA]

What's your serial number?? I can "light" between your gas tank and the hydr. block. It may be a Super C. Another way to tell is if its got "curved" clutch and brake pedals vs. straight. If you have a 5 digit or less serial it will be a C. Super Cs started at 100001 or so (6 digits anyway). Let us know. BobG in VA

 

[Nat]

Serial no. is 24686, makes it a 49, I think. The tractor runs and works good, looks like junk. Sheet metal is good, it is just bad paint, it won't take to long to fix. I'm not going to restore it to origonal, just want it to look OK.
The worksaver 3ph looks good, but to rich for my blood. I have a welding shop, so fabing one up won't be much problem. It still helps to have some pics for reference.
I have the shop cleaned out now so It will be going in today. I'm noy going to start the painting till I have the 3ph fabed up and working right, so the paint is coming later. Thanks, Nat

 

[timb]

Never used one but I believe the Worksavers have a pretty good rep. On their site they have an exploded parts diagram / bill of materials. I wonder if they sell individual components separate from buying a whole hitch? Might save you some time/aggravation to buy the one or two "tricky" bits and fab the easy stuff yourself.

 

[Gunfighter]

Your right Bob.

I have a Farmall C & Super C., looking at the space below the gas tank
and that large diameter steering wheel, it sure looks like a Super C...
Another thing, the Famall C had band brakes and the Super disks...

Could someone had change the serial number plate or the part that it
was attached too...

Richard
West Michigan...

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Nat, does that Puppy have a waterpump?? The C used a thermoshipon--ie. no waterpump. Look on the left side low at about 7 o'clock (from operators seat perspective)--see if there is a belt pulley with a connecting pipe to the radiator. If there is, I gotta notion that someone may have replaced the toolbox (it under the seat where the serial # is). Check it and let us know. Bobg in VA

 

[Gunfighter]

It is true that there was no water pump on a Farmall C but I've know
a few cases were pumps were add when over hauling the engine with
a over size bore...

Another method of dating a Farmall or IH tractor is by casting codes.
Starting with A in 1931 thru Z in 1954. With the exception In 1951,
when 2 letters were used, U & W and the letter V was never used...
I.H started over again in 1955 with the letter A....

This does not tell you the exact date of manufacture, only what year the
casting was poured. For some reason IH did not use the casting immediately
and let them sit for several months. Heard some say this was to relieve
stress before machining... So it's possible to have a R casting poured in
1948 but not used till the following year...

Above info taken from the book "Farmall Letter Series Tractors" by Guy Fay
and Andy Kraushaar...

Richard
West Michigan

 

[Nat]

Well, I have worked on it some this week, and am proud to say she wears a new coat of paint. I had to fix a couple dents and make some brackets for the nose piece. I bought it with the sheet metal next to it and didn't really pay much attention then, but when I started to put the nose on the holes didn't line up. With the top of the nose/grill laying on the top of the radiator the crank hole was about 1 1/2 " to high to line up with the crankshaft and the bolt holes on the side of the nose/grill were about 1 1/2" to high to fit the holes in the rad support bracket where it bolts on. I think the nose/grill may have come from an A. I had to make some lottle brackets to extend the support bracket holes up 1 1/2 and bend the lower center support bracket up 1 1/2. The nose fits and looks fine till you stoop down and look in the hand crank hole and see that it doesn't line up with the crankshaft. I have the decals , muffler, and seat cover on order from Valu-bilt, should be here next week, and I picked up the steel for the 3PH this morning. I looked at it real good and the 3PH is going to be simple to build. I'm going to make it bolt on so it can be removed if need be, so I can paint it seperately.
I looked at it good and it doesn't have a water pump. The brake and clutch pedals are cast and have a slight curve, not much, and the brake housing is stamped, not cast. someone told me that was the best way to tell a C from a SC.
I will post some pics of the new paint in a day or so and will update on the 3PH as soon as I start on it. I'll keep a list of the cost of the material for the 3PH in case anyone wants to do one sometime, it will be considerally cheaper than any aftermarket ones I've seen. Later, Nat

 

[Soundguy]

Can't wait to see those pics!!

I know what you mean having to make / extend brackets.

When i was putting my Allis 'G' back together.. it had no sheet metal. I had to get fenders for a salvage yard in california.. and a rear cowl from somewhere else. Couldn't find a good hood.. so I ordered a re-pop. Metal on the hood was less than half as thick as the OEM fenders and cowl.. but anyway.. the holes in the hood did not line up with the fenders and the rear cowl. The hood stamping was also not 100% 'finish' cut.. it left a long tab downt he front side of the hood. This extra 1" or so of 'tab' came in real handy, as I had to offset the hood nearly 3/4 of an inch back to get the rest of the sheet metal lined up, and keep the hood off the manifold. Had to redrill hood for fender attach points, and in the rear where the cowl mounts at the base of the engine, I had to make offset brackets like you did. Turned out great.

Again.. can't wait to see your pics!

Soundguy

 

[Nat]

well here she is. New paint, muffler, seat cover, and decals.
She starts and runs and works like a new tractor. I drove her up to the house this morning and my wife said she liked it, I nearly went into shock. I believe I'm going to put the 3000 ford up for sale, anybody interested? later, Nat

 

[Nat]

In this pic the nose/grill looks great, but in reality the handcrank hole is 1 1/2" above the center of the crankshaft. On checking, someone in the past has put the radiator from a Super C and had to use the risers under the fuel tank from a Super C to make the hood fit, so that is why ya'll thought it may be a Super. The bracket extensions I made work fine and the nose/grill now fits and she looks OK.

 

[Nat]

Hey, Gunfighter, on the Super C with the fast hitch, do the lift arms on the back have the linkage from the lift arms on the sides under the fuel tank, or is there a Hyd cyl on the rear to raise the hitch. I am in the process of putting the 3PH on and want to use the existing lift. I also have the lines that come from the hyd pump to the valve that has another valve so that you can have remote hyd such as for a loader, but I would rather not use it for the 3PH if I can use 2 linkage bars from the front lift to raise the 3PH. If you can post some pics of how the fast hitch works on yours I would certainly appreciate it. Thanks, Nat

 

[BobG_in_VA]

2pt Fast Hitch has its own cylinder on the back. On the SC hydraulic block (in front of the battery) there is a valve on the right side (same side as the hydro lines from the pump) that operates the fast hitch. On the SC there was no "float" valve. On later models (Farmall 230 and up) the midships rockshafts were deleted and float was added to the FastHitch. BobG in VA

 

[Nat]

Bob, I guess I have a block and valve from a SC. It is 2 lines that have a plate on the end that hooks to the pump, and they terminate on a valve that also bolts to the touch controlvalve body thus giving you 3 valves. It has the 2 for the touch control and a 3rd that can hook to whatever you want it to. I am hoping the touch control will have enough power to raise a bushhog,boxblade,ect. I have 5" of travel on the quadrants on the touch control and will have to make my rockshaft with a 2 to 1 ratio so that the 5" of quadrant travel will move the rearward portion of the rockshaft have a vertical travel of 10". With linkages from the rearward portion of the rockshaft hooked to the midle of the 3PH drawbar arms in the center, I will have 20" of travel on the ends of the drawbars of the 3PH. In essence, the 5" of quadrand travel will be multiplied 4 times, so if the touch control has 2000 lbs of lift force, I should be able to lift 500 lbs on the end of the 3PH. I have no way of telling how much power the touch control has, but I know that the Worksaver 3PH works on the same process. I', going to try to paste a pic of the worksaver. Hope I can, later, Nat
www.worksaver.com/product/hk102man.html

 

[Gunfighter]

I've seen some Farmall C with mounted plow (not 2pt fast hitch) that
ran a rod from the hydraulics under the gas tank to the rear.
On my Super C there is a separate cylinder in back for lift and lower but
it also incorporates the use of the two arms coming off the rockshaft
under the gas tank...

One side is used for draft control, by lifting or lowering the front of the hitch
you change the depth that the plow will run. The other side is for leveling
or tilting the hitch. It's especially useful for plowing, making your first turn
in the field you run the plows level with each other but once you drop a
wheel in a furrow you need to tilt the hitch for them to run level. This also
works well when you want to grade your drive way. You can adjust the blade
to run deeper on one side...

Hope this helps...

Richard
West Michigan

 

[OSA]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have a 3000 ford with a FEL, but use it rarely so I may sell it after the C is finished. )</font>

Just wondering why you like the Farmall C over the Ford 3000?

Dan