Can I fit a towball to a transport box?

[ace10]

The load rating on the box assumes a distributed load. If you somehow attach a ball to the accessory, you no longer have a distributed load.

Yes, I understand how a well-designed trailer/towing solution normally functions. But there are limits to every set up. Even those designed by engineers and signed off by lawyers. You had given us zero information about the trailer or the loads you're seeking to haul.

Makes this a bit of a guessing game, no?

 

[RichardDLee]

ace10 - It seems as if I have annoyed you but am unsure why, certainly wasn't trying to. Just looking for all advice and then I will use it to make a solution and show everyone. I know not everyone will agree with whatever I choose but I am also not daft enough to do something that would endanger me or anyone else or leave me with a broken transport box and/or trailer.

If I haven't given enough info I apologise - I am not doing this as a job, its purely for helping around our smallholding, moving compost, grass, horse manure, some soil and other planting/growing items. Mostly not of a massive weight but sometimes I will move soil which will be heavy but I wont go crazy with loading it.

I realise if I attach a towball to the transport box I need to do something about distributing its load and was hoping that someone had already done it and maybe had advice or an image or 2.

It will probably get used 3 days a week for a few hours each day. Not looking for a lawyer backed solution just the knowledge of everyone here which is usually insightful, helpful and friendly.
I have only been on here for 2 months but think that its brilliant, such willingness to help and resourcefulness of the DIY'ers is excellent.

If anyone needs more specific info to offer an opinion then please ask and I will endeavour to supply it.

Thanks.

 

[zing]

I think you are right that the dump box may not be solid enough to just add a towball to, but it seems to me like the more useful option because it would allow you to lower your dump box via the 3pt and then back under the trailer hitch and pick up the 3pt to get your trailer. This would be useful for little jogs around the yard and also would allow you to easily drop the trailer if you have to fill it with the tractor loader or dump something out of the dump box. My suggestion would be to just weld some tubular or channel to the bottom of your dump box in order to beef it up and then weld a 2" receiver tube to that. You are the best judge of how strong it will have to be since you will be using it. Lots of people do what you are suggesting with a box blade, but I think you just need to beef your dump box up a bit first.

Extending the draw bar is going to mean you have to exit the tractor every time you want to connect or disconnect, and I would also be concerned that a draw bar stuck out that far and low behind the tractor will drag and gouge the ground when you start to go uphill or over rough terrain. Especially dangerous if you are going backward and it digs in.

 

[franklin2]

Too bad your trailer doesn't have 4 wheels(more of a wagon). That would be the perfect marriage between the box and the trailer, since the trailer would have a tongue long enough to go under the box more than likely. And the weight of the trailer would be on the trailer, not the tractor along with the weight in the box.

 

[Oliver1655]

If you are not concerned with dumping the transport box while the trailer is hooked up:

Materials:
- Receiver tube: Most Farm & Home stores, Harbor Freight, Trailer supply stores will have them. Around $15
- 1/4" x 3" angle iron: 1 length at 1220/48", 2 lengths 800/31.5" (Approximate lengths from ad)

Fabrication:

- Cut a 1/4" x 3" x 48" angle iron which will reach across the bottom of the box at the rear. Turn it to where one edge is pointed downward an to the outside. Mark the center of the angle iron & cut out a 2-1/2" wide opening you can weld a receiver tube into. To each side you can drill holes in the angle iron for safety chains to hook to to keep them from dragging. Then run 2 more lengths of angle iron along the receiver hitch towards the 3 pt hitch mount of the box. Weld one side in place then drill the hole for the 5/8" pin using the holes in the receiver tube as a guide then weld on the the other side & drill that hole.

This "T", whether you weld it to the box or bolt it under, will distribute the load to the sides of the box for strength/stability.

***NOTE*** Before buying material or fabricating, you will have to look at the bottom of the box determine if this is an option. I can not see the bottom of the box.

 

[RichardDLee]

Oliver- thanks for that. I was imagining something similar with rectangle tube to distribute the load so I think it's possible. Theres currently 2 strips of thick steel that run from front to back to take the weight but it needs a bit more reinforcing.

Thanks.