Can I haul it Safely

hunterridgefarm · Jan 12, 2006

It will be about another month before I get my 24' 14K GRVW gooseneck. I need to start clearing an old road on the 50 ac tract we are going to build on. I also want to clear out some small stuff so I can plan the house location before I bring in the big equipment.

Here is my problem, I have a 16' dovetail 7000 lb GVWR.
L3130DT = 3220 lb. (brochure weight)
AG.tires loaded my guess 800lb
FEL, Woods 1012 tooth bar HD bucket= 1000 lb (conservative)
I'll use my light box blade 6' KK= 600lb (?)

Total weight 5620 lb. (+/-) Not including chains and binders.

That leaves around 1,380 lbs for the trailer. I am not sure of the weight of the trailer but I am thinking around 2500 lbs. So I will be overloaded somewhere around 1200lbs /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

I will have to travel aprox. 2 miles country road. Do you think this would be safe or should I just drive the tractor on the road?

Plus the fact that this combination will use every inch of space on this trailer.

TOMLESCOEQUIP · Jan 12, 2006

Load the weight forward of the axels on the trailer & transfer about 750 # of the weight onto the truck & go for it. Tires are an issue (on the trailer) but with the short distance involved, I don't think you'll have any problems. Probably safer than having somebody come up behind you while driving the tractor on the road who isn't paying attention...........

inveresk · Jan 13, 2006

Best check your insurance policy. If you overload the trailer, your insurer may wash their hands of any claim if you have an accident - even if it's not your fault.

Here in BC I can drive my tractor on the public road provided I have a warning triangle displayed on the back. In addition, I use flashers and headlights. Other threads I've read suggest the same applies in many states. You could check with your local police. At least then you'd know what's legal and what's not.

Farmwithjunk · Jan 13, 2006

2 miles of country roads? It would take less time to drive the tractor than you'd spend loading and unloading. Me? I'd go that route.

However, if you carried some weight on the trailer tongue (back of the truck) and drove carefully (read SLOWLY) I don't see a big problem. I've hauled a few overweight loads in my day. I sure wouldn't suggest doing it out on a busy highway, nor doing it on a regular basis. Under the circumstances, you aren't going to end up on the FBI's "10 most wanted" list over this.

Consider leaving the box blade at the site once you get it there. That'd save a few pounds on any repeat hauls.

tawilson · Jan 13, 2006

My 18' dovetail is #2200. So that gets you a little closer. Myself, I have neighbors in the 2 mile range that I occasionally do work for, and I usually just drive the tractor there. Make sure you have your reflective triangle on.

MossRoad · Jan 13, 2006

Our 18' trailer is rated for 7000. It weighs 1500, so we have a usably LEGAL load of 5500. Without a placard on the trailer or something written from the factory, the only way to really know how much it weighs is to take the trailer to a scale and weigh it. Gravel pits, truck stops, junk yards and recycling centers are good places to find scales.

hunterridgefarm · Jan 13, 2006

(" 2 miles of country roads? It would take less time to drive the tractor than you'd spend loading and unloading. Me? I'd go that route.")

FWJ,
This is my thinking also; by the time I load, bind and unload I could drive the tractor there. That is the way I did it years ago, but traffic on this country road has increased and my wife is does not want me to drive it on the road.

I'll drive it on the road or trailer it this weekend...depends on the weather.

One advantage to the trailering is I can take my 15 year old with me to help. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif If I drive the tractor on the road I'll have to get my wife to drive him out to help...the problem with this...they will go the opposite way and spend a couple of hours at Wal-Mart, then show up when the hard part is done /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Highbeam · Jan 13, 2006

If you really want a little more safety margin, run the box blade out there seperately or throw it in the truck bed (I just tried to imagine how you would lift it without the tractor). This also allows you to position the tractor where you want it on the deck.

Max air in the tires. No crazy business.

But really now, 2 miles, just a little ways. The trailer is nearly within the ratings and I would say adequate for the task. People have done much, much, worse and had no trouble.

hunterridgefarm · Jan 13, 2006

("But really now, 2 miles, just a little ways. The trailer is nearly within the ratings and I would say adequate for the task.")

Highbeam,
You are right but sometimes you just need to hear it from someone else to ease your mind /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Hambone · Jan 13, 2006

What kind of truck? 1/2,3/4?? Tire rating?

What are the ratings on the trailer tires?

But, I agree, the time loading, unloading, chaining and unchaining, you could have been there and had a cold beverage!