Can I use this circuit for work lights?

   / Can I use this circuit for work lights? #1  

RidgeHiker

Gold Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Messages
390
Location
Upper California Mountains
Tractor
Kioti DK5010 with KL5510 Loader & 72" Bucket. Kawasaki Mule Pro MX SE with 66" snow plow.
I have a Kioti LK3054. I intend to add 2 forward work lights and one backward on the ROPS. There is a 6 place connector off the back that I am pretty sure is for attaching trailer lights.
None of the contacts are hot with the key on but one gets hot with the headlights on which I am thinking of using for the work lights. The headlight circuit has a 20 amp fuse. So here are my questions:
1. I want to know how much juice I would have for the work lights. What would a typical draw be on 2 headlights and 2 tail lights?
2. Is it true that if I divide the wattage of a bulb by the volts it gives me the amps?
3. How much of a safety margin should I leave under the 20 amps?
4. Anything wrong with using this circuit (other than having to have the headlights on?
5. The electrical diagram in the manual shows a circuit for working lamp. Any ideas where it may be? I have attached a wiring diagram from another thread.
You can probably tell I am a novice at this....
 

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   / Can I use this circuit for work lights? #2  
Watts divided by volts is right for amps.

There is a pigtail on the rear of my tractor that is hot with the headlights on, that Is what I tied into for a single 55 watt work light. I am sure that is what the hot with lights on wire is for on yours. If you want all your lights to work from one switch but are not sure if it will handle the amps you could wire a Relay in for the extra lights by using the existing Headlight hot for the trip wire on the Relay. When I installed my three ROPS Lights, I added a new 20 amp rated two postion switch too, so I could use independent of the head lights. Three lights at 55 watt = 13.75 amps so on a 20 amp switch no relay is needed.
 
   / Can I use this circuit for work lights? #3  
Yoder hit it on the head.

Find out the wattage of your head lights and the worklights. A rule of tumb for designing lighting load on a circuit is to plan for 80% of max circuit capacity. In your case I would plan to be around that 16 amp range or you might spend alot of time changing fuzes.

Cheers
 
   / Can I use this circuit for work lights? #4  
FYI:

There now are nice/affordable LED work lights that draw lots less power available.

If you haven't already done the job you may want to consider this option.
 
   / Can I use this circuit for work lights? #5  
3 - 55 watt hallogen work lights would yeild 13.75 aqmps, while 4 would yeild 18.33 amps.

You need to also find out how large your alternator is. My cab Kioti Dk45 has a 55 amp alernator (if i remember correctly). some tractors have an alternator so small they might not be able to handle the extra load of 3-4 halogen lights.

The LED lights that someone else suggested are a great (if expensive) alternative if you dont have enough power.
 
   / Can I use this circuit for work lights?
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Does it say on the alternator what amps it is?
 
   / Can I use this circuit for work lights? #7  
To the OP;

If your dealing with ANY snow I would not go LED...

They do not get hot therefore they will not melt stuck on snow
 
   / Can I use this circuit for work lights?
  • Thread Starter
#8  
To the OP;

If your dealing with ANY snow I would not go LED...

They do not get hot therefore they will not melt stuck on snow

Thanks, I have been thinking about that. We get a lot of snow so it is a concern. Since we are mounting them under the canopy I do not know if they will collect much snow but I think we will stay away from LEDs unless we are having a significant issue with sufficient power.

I guess if I get desperate I can warm my hands on the halogens or HIDs :laughing: since it is so difficult to keep my fingers warm :(.
 
   / Can I use this circuit for work lights? #9  
Does it say on the alternator what amps it is?



It should be in the owners manual or you could check with a dealer. But you should be fine. I like LED's they have there place but they do not put out as good as a cheap 55 Watt Work Light. I do not even need my factory lights anymore with the two forward facing 55 watt Hella lights on the Rop Bar. When I do turn the factory Headlights on the only difference I can see is 75 feet ahead. Kinda like a High Beam. Hope this helps
 

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   / Can I use this circuit for work lights? #10  
It should be in the owners manual or you could check with a dealer. But you should be fine. I like LED's they have there place but they do not put out as good as a cheap 55 Watt Work Light. I do not even need my factory lights anymore with the two forward facing 55 watt Hella lights on the Rop Bar. When I do turn the factory Headlights on the only difference I can see is 75 feet ahead. Kinda like a High Beam. Hope this helps

the problem is there have been quite a few people on TBN complaining that their tractors shut down after installing 3-4 extra 55 watt lamps....they overdo the electrical system and kill power to the fuel shutoff or ???
 
   / Can I use this circuit for work lights?
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Thanks all! I am considering wiring it more directly and will start a new thread on that.
 
   / Can I use this circuit for work lights? #12  
I know this post is a few days old and you probably have lights by now but heres what i did. I have a new DK35SE HST and needed to put lights up where i can see at night. I talked to my dealer and he suggested unplugging the low beam side of the light in the grill. Put in a spade connector and run a wire back to the rear of the tractor. Your circuit is fused, no need to locate a new switch and Wa-La your done! Thats the way ive done it and the 4 lights work great. Unfortunately i bought Harbor Freight lights because of the price instead of Tractor Supply lights. HF isn't quite as bright though. . . . John
 
   / Can I use this circuit for work lights?
  • Thread Starter
#13  
I know this post is a few days old and you probably have lights by now but heres what i did. I have a new DK35SE HST and needed to put lights up where i can see at night. I talked to my dealer and he suggested unplugging the low beam side of the light in the grill. Put in a spade connector and run a wire back to the rear of the tractor. Your circuit is fused, no need to locate a new switch and Wa-La your done! Thats the way ive done it and the 4 lights work great. Unfortunately i bought Harbor Freight lights because of the price instead of Tractor Supply lights. HF isn't quite as bright though. . . . John

Thanks for your reply. Interesting way to do it. We have already wired it through the ignition and have also used the Harbor Freight lights - 55w halogens. Could not pass up on the sale price of all 3 lights for under $24. Would have preferred HIDs but they would have cost more like $190. We will upgrade if we need to in the future.
 
   / Can I use this circuit for work lights? #14  
Hi. I just finished installing two 55W halogen worklights on the ROPS of my CK27. I wanted LED's but they are a little pricey and these were on sale. I will add a rear facing LED in the future and move the two halogens to be forward facing. I made a bracket from flat aluminum, installed a relay to run off the rear connector that runs from the ignition switch. To me the factory wiring looks under-sized so I ran a 10A fused home run from the battery to the relay and on to the lights on the ROPS. I couldn't find a half decent water proof switch so I used a good quality standard one and mounted it facing down with the relay and other connections in a weather proof PVC box - though I think I will move it to behind the mount point - a little less obvious. Works great!
 

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   / Can I use this circuit for work lights? #15  
Tip: Use a relay and use a waterproof switch conveniently located.

I didn't have any relays handy when I added lights to my canopy on my Mahindra and the lights eventually made the switch unreliable. I have to replace it when I have time- probably about 10 mins after it finally quits! :ashamed:

The upside is you can run a very small wire (thermostat wire, cat 5, etc) from the switch to the relay, so it is very convenient to route the wire and locate the switch.

A lighted switch is highly recommended.

Another tip: Mount the lights snugly, but so they can be tilted and rotated. I used driving lights and they mounted with a stud.

I move them CONSTANTLY depending on what I need to see or what I'm doing.

And I did run my two lights off the rear trailer plug. If I have to run the rear light at the same time, I only do it for very short periods.

ETA: Here is a link for a relay socket to make life easier. Use a waterproof relay. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=330-080
330-080_s.jpg


Good prices at this site, but order a couple things at a time to keep down the shipping costs.

Hope this helps!

- JC
 

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