Can you help me with expensive decision??

   / Can you help me with expensive decision?? #21  
I have a different approach than the others. Diesel is getting expensive and you have a truck that has the DPF system if I'm not mistaken. My advice is that you sell your 09 GMC now before the price of diesel gets higher. Your truck should be worth around 35k-38k and there are people who need/want a GM diesel pickup. The GM diesels are hard to find in my area, but if diesel fuel price continues toward $4 then demand for a diesel truck will go down. I purchased an almost new Dodge diesel in 2008 for 26K and I drove it for 30,000 miles and made almost 4k when I sold it a few months ago.

You have said you don't tow that much weight anymore, so why keep your diesel? I feel that all pickup brands will have a hard time selling as fuel prices increase, so there should be some great deals coming. You can purchase a nice new 1/2 ton pickup and pocket about 4-5k or you could find a 2-3 year old 1/2 ton and get your wife a newer car as well.

I sold my diesel pickup and purchased a 2010 Tundra in November under invoice, so I got a new truck out of my 2007 Dodge. My wife needed a car in August and she got 12k off a demo Sequoia with 3k miles. She got the Sequoia cheeper than a new Toyota Sienna XLE van.
 
   / Can you help me with expensive decision?? #22  
I have a different approach than the others. Diesel is getting expensive and you have a truck that has the DPF system if I'm not mistaken. My advice is that you sell your 09 GMC now before the price of diesel gets higher. Your truck should be worth around 35k-38k and there are people who need/want a GM diesel pickup. The GM diesels are hard to find in my area, but if diesel fuel price continues toward $4 then demand for a diesel truck will go down. I purchased an almost new Dodge diesel in 2008 for 26K and I drove it for 30,000 miles and made almost 4k when I sold it a few months ago.

You have said you don't tow that much weight anymore, so why keep your diesel? I feel that all pickup brands will have a hard time selling as fuel prices increase, so there should be some great deals coming. You can purchase a nice new 1/2 ton pickup and pocket about 4-5k or you could find a 2-3 year old 1/2 ton and get your wife a newer car as well.

I sold my diesel pickup and purchased a 2010 Tundra in November under invoice, so I got a new truck out of my 2007 Dodge. My wife needed a car in August and she got 12k off a demo Sequoia with 3k miles. She got the Sequoia cheeper than a new Toyota Sienna XLE van.

GM diesels are a dime a dozen here, tons on the used market. Just a different region.

This selling now is actually a good point. Dump the diesel since you do not need it and get a nice 1/2 gasser. It will do everything you need and more while riding about the same. The new F-150, GMC, Dodge, and Toyota trucks are getting in the 20 mpg range with the Ford leading the pack. With the GMC offering watch the rear axle ratio and towing capacity. This will not be a factor on the Ford, Dodge, or Toyota because with any gear ratio it will do more than you need. Nissan is out for you due to the mpg being less than 20ish but is a heck of a puller, just not a good fit for you.

Take the difference and save it toward a new ride for your wife when the time comes. If you invest that money wisely you will be a little ahead.

Chris
 
   / Can you help me with expensive decision?? #23  
Fellow Posters:

Can we afford such a purchase? Sure, but like everyone else I also have other obligations such as continuing to fund our retirement and the kids college fund, etc, that I could and probably should continue to fund (we already do this anyway) even more vigorously.


My question: the 2011 GMC has an upgraded frame, brakes, front axle, larger fuel tank, upgraded engine power, supposedly 1-2 mpg better highway economy, engine exhaust brake now, and in the Denali case a few additional bells and whistles--and a rewound 3/36000 warranty. This could be had for essentially $17,500 price difference in trade.

Thanks for the input, John M

I have a friend who could afford to send his four kids to any school in the world. Believe it or not he actually made them work in his business on weekends / summer vacation. They had to save / invest the money. When they wanted cell phones they had to buy their own. He told them once they paid their own way through university, he would pay to send them to any post graduate school in the world. They all lived at home and attended the local university. They all seem the better for it. I have never met nicer, well behaved, intelligent kids in my life. Some of my other friends who lived a few blocks from the university paid for the kids to go and another $10K a year so they could live in residence and get the on campus experience. Basically handed them everything in life on a platter. Not sure they are doing as well.

AS for the truck. Take a ride in a loaded up gasser 1500 series. Unless your towing needs change it will ride smoother, ride quieter and have a better turning radius than an HD series. It will do everything you need and be $10K or more less expensive. In the long run fuel / maintenance will likely be less expensive as well.
 
   / Can you help me with expensive decision?? #24  
The decision problem??:)

From someone who drives most vehicles till the cost of repairs for reliability become exorbitant all I can say is keep the present truck. Save some money, put it in an account for future vehicles or whatever?:thumbsup::thumbsup:

I used to be the guy who bought a new car, or truck whenever I felt like it. I told myself, that I work hard, and I deserved it, and I do. But now I am really into buying the right car/truck for me, and proving myself right. I have been buying Honda compact cars the last ten years, and trying to run them in the ground, I have not succeeded, I put 30-35K miles a year on them. My truck, is a 2004 Ford F250 crew-cab with the V-10. I keep trying to convince myself that I should get A new ford Diesel, but I put headers on the 04, and it is still pulling hard, (I tow a 20+5 22K gooseneck with a Kubota L4400tlb on the back. I would stick with the truck you have, get your moneys worth out of it. I can tell you from personal experience, that it is nice not having any car/truck payments.
 
   / Can you help me with expensive decision?? #25  
I hope you discipline yourself....I sure would get the wife a new car or whatever, as she is going on six yrs or so.....Can`t imagine a sticker of sixty four thousand on a truck unless it is a large working truck whew.....You have a lot of responsibilities coming up---so think it through----What will you do if you get the new truck, and then your wife`s car begins to give a lot of trouble...That is what happens to me :) Good Luck, but don`t count on it Tony
 
   / Can you help me with expensive decision?? #27  
Best discussion on vehicle purchasing I've ever seen.

Possibly because I agree with buying the vehicle you need then driving it into the ground.

Always, I drive a vehicle until either the transmission or engine goes... somewhere past 150 to 200+k miles. Pay cash when I purchase. Have a vehicle for every driving niche I need. Last two purchases have been used but exceptionally well maintained vehicles.

My recommendation, keep it.
 
   / Can you help me with expensive decision?? #28  
Gents,
... I bet you that none of the folks on this thread have ever run anything into the ground...

Dan

I'll take you up on that.

When I was in graduate school (think poor, think 1970) my wife and I bought a beater car -- about a 15 year old Cadillac with extensive body damage on one side. We paid $300.

We ran it for about 18 months, when it became hard to start. I called around and if I drove it to a junkyard it was worth $25, if they towed it in it was worth $15.

We jumped it to get it started, and headed for the junkyard. As it left the parking lot of our apartment, the exhaust pipe fell off. When we got about a block from the junkyard we had to suddenly stop for some reason and the transmission linkage broke with the car in drive. We could put the shift in park and activate the starter, but the engine wouldn't start because the car was in gear and wouldn't turn over fast enough. A few bystanders helped push it to get it going and miracle, of miracles, it started.

I drove into the junkyard, parked next to the office, shut it off and got my $25. They had to tow it away.

I call that getting every last inch of life out of a car.
 
   / Can you help me with expensive decision?? #29  
Curly, I think you did get every last micro-mile out of that vehicle.:laughing:
 
   / Can you help me with expensive decision?? #30  
CurlyDave said:
I'll take you up on that.

When I was in graduate school (think poor, think 1970) my wife and I bought a beater car -- about a 15 year old Cadillac with extensive body damage on one side. We paid $300.

We ran it for about 18 months, when it became hard to start. I called around and if I drove it to a junkyard it was worth $25, if they towed it in it was worth $15.

We jumped it to get it started, and headed for the junkyard. As it left the parking lot of our apartment, the exhaust pipe fell off. When we got about a block from the junkyard we had to suddenly stop for some reason and the transmission linkage broke with the car in drive. We could put the shift in park and activate the starter, but the engine wouldn't start because the car was in gear and wouldn't turn over fast enough. A few bystanders helped push it to get it going and miracle, of miracles, it started.

I drove into the junkyard, parked next to the office, shut it off and got my $25. They had to tow it away.

I call that getting every last inch of life out of a car.

In 1985 after a pretty serious financial set back ( first wife) I ended up driving a 1972 Lemans. I paid $125.00 for it. It leaked a quart of oil a week and I had to keep wiring the muffler up with coat hangers. Almost two years latter I took it to get the muffler replaced. When the mechanic put it on the lift and started to lift it, the body separated from the frame, all the attachment points had rusted through. They gave me $50.00 bucks for the scrap. Net cost $125.00 + $150 or so for oil, less $50.00 for the scrap. Net cost $225.00. I hated that car, but it got me where I needed to go for almost two years.

Not sure it was EPA compliant though.
 

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