Can you help shed some light ?

[Mark_in_NH]

Hi Everybody,
I finally have an update in the light department. The canopy hazard lights work properly and as desired. A friend of mine who works for a local company that sets up Emergancy, Municipal and Private vehicles, gave me a Federal electronic flasher unit that he salvaged out of a cruiser retrofit. It and the lights work like a champ. I had 2 problems from the start, both of which were suggested to me in this thread.
1st. was the type of flasher I was trying to use, a Wagner type.

2nd. was the size of my test wire I was using to provide temporary power.
I took a few minutes to day and tested everything, using the posative side of my jumper cables ( I figured they should be of aequate size ) to provide temporary power.
Everything worked as intended. Now I just need to figure out the path to run my hot wire (need to buy some) to the rear of the tractor and up to the canopy, mount my switch, make all my final connections.
Thank you all for you advice, suggestion and input.

 

[Soundguy]

I suggest running that positive lead inside wire loom cable, or 'spagetti' as some call it. That will give it a bit of protection. Cable ties here and there will keep it from hanging and snagging. If not already, make sure there is a fuse inline with it, close to the distribution source. ( battery, tap, or panel/barrier strip you are taking your power from ).

Soundguy

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Hello - new to the forums, and having a good time reading through them. I wanted to mention that whenever possible it's always a good idea to use a relay to power any accessories or lights. I think Soundguy mentioned this and it's important. I've done a lot of automotive wiring and I can't tell you how many switches I've seen fried due to a high amperage being routed through them.

The nice thing about relays is that they route power directly to the light/accessory from the battery or ignition controlled source without trying to route that same amperage through the switch contacts. Another bonus is that since the switch (resistance) is eliminated from the supply voltage side of the circuit, you'll get more voltage to the light/accessory which is usually a good thing. I have seen many cases of installing relays into headlight circuits of older cars and the complaint of dim headlights disappears.

A fuse or circuit breaker is placed between the 12v source and the relay to protect the load circuit. All the switch does is supply voltage to close (or open) the relay internal coil/contacts, which usually only need millivolts to energize.

The 12v feed to the switch can be on a smaller gauge wire since there is no real amperage demand through the switch when it's controlling a relay. The switch circuit can also be protected with a fuse installed between switch and 12v source.

BTW - I've always gotten my electrical stuff thorugh www.delcity.net and have been very pleased with them (no relation or connection with them - just think they do a good job). My tractor worklight arrived today - sealed beam in rubber shock mounting - item 8595 for $9.29 /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif.

Well that's long winded enough - I only wanted to stress that the electrical stuff will live a lot longer with a little more effort in up front installation.