Can't find model number on B&S engine

[RandyT]

Try model number 10R232-0007-F1 Gasket set 594951 contains all the gasket that you need. Gaskets are not available separately for that engine. Looks like if any major component goes south on that engine the parts are not available. Head and push rods for just a couple things that don't have available replacement parts.

 

[crazyal]

I'm betting it's an engine made in the same factory as the ones Harbor Freight sells. While pulling the pull starter cover off one of the screws ended up behind the flywheel. While removing the loose screw I found that the flywheel will move in and out by about a 1/16" of an inch. It seams like Briggs is just riding it's name now. To be honest I set a limit of $15 for the gasket and shipping. Since it'll most likely happen again and the cylinder wall is damaged from the rust I don't have great expectancy for the longevity of the engine.

Randy, that looks like it. The number is laser etched, not stamped next to the oil drain plug. It too hard to read correctly so I was searching for the wrong number. What's funny (and sad) is that the gasket set you listed above also allies to the CR950 engine. It comes with two head gaskets. The head gasket for the slightly larger CR950 can be bought separately. I did find an aftermarket gasket set on ebay matching the Briggs part number but only has one head gasket in it. All of the gaskets (other than the head gasket) that are identical between the two engines can be bought separately as long as you know to search under CR950 (130G32-0022-F1).

I've decided that I'm not going to spend $40 for a head gasket set that only has 1 gasket I need. Not when the head gasket for CR950 is less than $10 so it's just a pure cash grab on Brigg's part. I guess I'll just run it as is and if/ when the RTV gives out or the engine gets water in it I'll just buy an engine from Harbor Freight for $100. Maybe I can take it apart and sell the good parts to whomever wants them.

 

[RandyT]

I'm betting it's an engine made in the same factory as the ones Harbor Freight sells. While pulling the pull starter cover off one of the screws ended up behind the flywheel. While removing the loose screw I found that the flywheel will move in and out by about a 1/16" of an inch. It seams like Briggs is just riding it's name now. To be honest I set a limit of $15 for the gasket and shipping. Since it'll most likely happen again and the cylinder wall is damaged from the rust I don't have great expectancy for the longevity of the engine.

Randy, that looks like it. The number is laser etched, not stamped next to the oil drain plug. It too hard to read correctly so I was searching for the wrong number. What's funny (and sad) is that the gasket set you listed above also allies to the CR950 engine. It comes with two head gaskets. The head gasket for the slightly larger CR950 can be bought separately. I did find an aftermarket gasket set on ebay matching the Briggs part number but only has one head gasket in it. All of the gaskets (other than the head gasket) that are identical between the two engines can be bought separately as long as you know to search under CR950 (130G32-0022-F1).

I've decided that I'm not going to spend $40 for a head gasket set that only has 1 gasket I need. Not when the head gasket for CR950 is less than $10 so it's just a pure cash grab on Brigg's part. I guess I'll just run it as is and if/ when the RTV gives out or the engine gets water in it I'll just buy an engine from Harbor Freight for $100. Maybe I can take it apart and sell the good parts to whomever wants them.

I am going to throw another weird thing into the mix. If I input the serial number as 18 0403 98 19898 I get the CR950 engine and if I input it as 1804039819898 I get the CR750 engine.

 

[WranglerX]

Did you look on side of valve cover?

How To Find Utility Engine Model Number | Briggs & Stratton

Dale

 

[RandyT]

Did you look on side of valve cover?

How To Find Utility Engine Model Number | Briggs & Stratton

Dale

Not there, The new engines have is laser etched into the block Either on the side or as noted above next to the drain plug on the bottom mounting flange, where it gets covered with dirt, oil and debris and depending on how the engine is mounted requires some good cleaning and a mirror to read the numbers.

 

[crazyal]

Unlike the old days when Briggs would stamp it into the engine the laser engraving sucks. Maybe brand new out of the box it's readable but that's it. The only way I found it (and even then couldn't correctly read the numbers) was because I wiped that spot of the block with dirty fingers. My hand had previously been on the ground so it had some soil on it. That highlighted the etching just enough. Why Briggs cheaped out and laser engraved the serial number and model number onto the block but only printed the serial number onto the easy to read sticker is beyond me. It's like they don't even want you to find the model number.

I'm thinking of buying a head gasket for a Honda and seeing if it'll fit. I can get one mailed to me for about $5 so it's not a huge expense.

 

[RandyT]

Honda went through a period where their model information was a dot matrix type stamping, Almost impossible to read in some cases. Briggs actually did the same thing when was a disaster also. Or the Kohler with all the information on a sticker type tag that either peels off, fades or in some cases you will wipe the information off trying to clean it to read it.

 

[MickeyDBC]

Umm... The parts may be more than repairing engine is worth..... This is why B&S is failing.... I bought a log splitter with dead B&S and the cost for parts to repair was more than I could buy a "disposable chinesium" engine....

Was not my greatest move as I am not a fan of a lot of Chinese stuff, but over $200 for just a bag full of carburetor parts (carb body, fuel tank, air cleaner and miscellaneous do dads for linkages) for a 30 year old engine was just a bit more than a new $130 engine (and 1.5 more fresh hp - from 5hp to 6.5hp).......

And was direct bolt up to B&S or Honda specs...Only negative is placement of run/stop switch as it sits on my log splitter, may not be issue in other applications...

Please forgive me for going over to the dark side....

Dale

Aren't shop vacs rated in chinese horsepower? I always wonder how they could get 7hp out of a 15 amp circuit...

 

[crazyal]

Just thought I would post a quick update. I ran the engine for about 30 to 45 minutes (with the old head gasket and RTV) before it shut down. It's on a leaf vacuum and it's not quite leaf season yet but I wanted to know if it was going to self destruct before I really needed it. Also I wanted to put an hour or two on it and then change the oil. Turns out the gas cap failed and gas wouldn't flow into the carb. Swapped the cap with one off a Harbor Freight water pump I have and ran it for another hour without a problem. I have the Honda head gasket but I'm going to leave it as it is. Luckily in this application the engine has more than enough power so I run it at about half speed. At full speed the vacuum noise, which is a low frequency hum is annoying and hearing protection doesn't really do much to reduce it.