Can't remove valve stem cores

[JazzDad]

So, there are lots of posts about leaking valve stems. I have a stem that I can't get air in or out. The core depresses, but I can't move any air past it. I suspect the ballast in the tire has clogged (maybe corroded) the core. I also can't unscrew the core. I've tried soaking the inside of the stems with PB Blaster. I sure would hate to have to take the wheels off and replace the tubes. Any thoughts on how to remove these cores?

 

[Coyote machine]

What are you using to try to unscrew the valve stem? Have you tried removing it when it's at the top of the wheel rotation with less pressure from the liquid in the tire?

 

[SPYDERLK]

So, there are lots of posts about leaking valve stems. I have a stem that I can't get air in or out. The core depresses, but I can't move any air past it. I suspect the ballast in the tire has clogged (maybe corroded) the core. I also can't unscrew the core. I've tried soaking the inside of the stems with PB Blaster. I sure would hate to have to take the wheels off and replace the tubes. Any thoughts on how to remove these cores?

Fluid valve stems are usually 2 part. With them the core is in an outward part that screws into the part that is vulcanized onto the tube. Pls confirm that you have the regular automotive type valve stems and not the 2 part liquid stems.

 

[JazzDad]

Yes, I have the tire at the 12 o'clock position. Remember, I can't get air in or out.

Yes, common-type stems, that are a part of the tube. The tractor was previously owned by a couple of knuckle-brained brothers, so who knows what they may have done.

I am trying to get the core out to ream something in there to break whatever is clogging the stem behind the core. The front tires are fine.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Yes, I have the tire at the 12 o'clock position. Remember, I can't get air in or out.

Yes, common-type stems, that are a part of the tube. The tractor was previously owned by a couple of knuckle-brained brothers, so who knows what they may have done.

I am trying to get the core out to ream something in there to break whatever is clogging the stem behind the core. The front tires are fine.

OK. I think you should drill it out, but 1st a question. When you failed to remove it did you turn hard enough to break off the tab portion that the tool keys onto?

If not - before you do, first get a metal cap and cut off its top. Then screw it onto the stem until its threads are over the portion where the threads on the valve core engage. Now squeeze the cap with vise grips [an old pair with tips worn smooth would be best] to distort the stem slightly around the core. The aim is small distortion to disturb the internal corrosion on the core threads. Set grip pressure prudently and repeat grip several times at different points. You might try removal torque during and after and while gently applying different squeezes - oil up the grips so they work smoothly. If it moves youre home free.

Good luck​

 

[Steave]

I've had some luck with one of these if the inside of the stem tabs break off.
The tapered end is backward threads and will sometimes grab the stem but if its stuck with some kind of flat fixer upper it may never come out.
The straight threaded side is for re-tapping the threads if you ever get the old one out.
It also has a re-tapping part for the outside of the stem where the cap goes.

SLIME 4-way Valve Tool - 33M173'|'288 - Grainger

 

[JazzDad]

I have not put the full mojo on it, so have not broken anything off inside the stem. I'll try what you suggested, Spyder - that makes good sense. If it doesn't work, the screw extractor will be tried. I have a set in various sizes.

Thank you much, all!

 

[JazzDad]

I sprayed PB Blaster into the stems and let them soak for about a week. The cores came out. However, no air did. I found a small screwdriver that would fit within a stem (tested on a stem not installed in a tire, so as to not damage those internal threads). Inserted it, but it didn't budge beyond about 3/4 inch. Got out the drill motor and chucked up a 3/32" bit. Ran it in there, and a blob of what looked like cement came out followed by a stream of water. (I had the stem positioned at 9 o'clock for easy access.) Threaded the core back in and was able to properly inflate the tires with no subsequent leak.

Next project: Replace the gearbox on the mowing deck. Anyone have a suggestion on how to safely put it on its side, and keep it from tipping while taking large wrenches to the various fasteners?

 

[kthompson]

If you have any kind of loader or hoist I would lift the mower at least to the point of having the chain or straps tight to prevent the deck from having slack so it could fall. Also would suggest use of impact wrench over hand wrench as you will not put near the load on the deck causing it to tip.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I sprayed PB Blaster into the stems and let them soak for about a week. The cores came out. However, no air did. I found a small screwdriver that would fit within a stem (tested on a stem not installed in a tire, so as to not damage those internal threads). Inserted it, but it didn't budge beyond about 3/4 inch. Got out the drill motor and chucked up a 3/32" bit. Ran it in there, and a blob of what looked like cement came out followed by a stream of water. (I had the stem positioned at 9 o'clock for easy access.) Threaded the core back in and was able to properly inflate the tires with no subsequent leak.

Next project: Replace the gearbox on the mowing deck. Anyone have a suggestion on how to safely put it on its side, and keep it from tipping while taking large wrenches to the various fasteners?

If you have any kind of loader or hoist I would lift the mower at least to the point of having the chain or straps tight to prevent the deck from having slack so it could fall. Also would suggest use of impact wrench over hand wrench as you will not put near the load on the deck causing it to tip.

Great news!​

Next - If you dont have a loader and the mower is 3point, you can remove the center link and hoist the back of the mower from the ROPS to pivot it way up for access and inherent stability.

 

[sandman2234]

Great news!​

Next - If you dont have a loader and the mower is 3point, you can remove the center link and hoist the back of the mower from the ROPS to pivot it way up for access and inherent stability.

Great idea, hadn't thought of that!
David from jax

 

[Spanner]

Sounds like it's a rear-mounted mower?

Remove PTO shaft completely first.

Well done getting your valve stem cores out.
:wrench:

 

[Steave]

You're either real good or real lucky. Don't matter, they came out ! Great.

Good idea SPYDERLK posted. If you don't have ROPS put it against a tree and tie it to it. I'm not the safety police but don't trust hydraulics for any reasons for any length of time.

 

[JazzDad]

Uh, if this 1967 tractor had a ROPS, I'd still be hesitant to try to crank up that 730+ pound deck.

I'll see if a neighbor can help flip it with his FEL.

Thank you.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Uh, if this 1967 tractor had a ROPS, I'd still be hesitant to try to crank up that 730+ pound deck.

I'll see if a neighbor can help flip it with his FEL.

Thank you.

Yeah you cant do it if you dont have one. A ROPS though is very strong - strong in relation to tractor weight in order to provide Roll Over Protection. 730# is no problem on an Kub L2550. It helps to begin with the back of the BH elevated a little with a block to improve the initial pull angle of the hoist line.

There are some cases I imagine where geometry or design would interfere critically. :confused3:​

 

[JazzDad]

A kindly neighbor came over w/ his tractor and helped me get it over. He suggested putting it up against a tree (good idea!) as it gave me a place to attach a hoist for lowering the old gearbox, raising the new one and raising the disc onto the gearbox output shaft. I could not have lifted them on my own (as I had planned).

In the meantime, the tractor won't start... :confused3:

 

[Spanner]

Hang it from the Lynching Tree as well!:laughing:

What are your symptoms? Cranks? Doesn't crank? Battery ok? Have you tried Jumper Leads?

 

[JazzDad]

... What are your symptoms? ...

Same as before. It may be the injector pump again. I cleaned it a while back and the gunk I drained out of it yesterday was as bad as last time. Just need to find the time to work on it.

If one could hang a tractor, I'd be tempted.

 

[Spanner]

Hmmm. Why is any "gunk" reaching your Injection Pump at all? Doesn't your tractor have a fuel filter?

 

[JazzDad]

The Ford owner's manual states that some dilution of the injector pump may occur. The fuel is clean, but the pump (as far as I know) never had the oil changed until I did it a few weeks ago. I followed Pumpguysc's advice and I thought I had cleaned it well enough, however, the oil I drained out this weekend was just as nasty. I'm hoping I just need to do another treatment or two (with the acetone and ATF).

But that didn't answer your question. It has two fuel filters.