charlz
Elite Member
I see now they are saying to replace the calipers along with the pads and rotors. Sure makes brake jobs look expensive these days.
Car Brake Rotor Replacement / Resurfacing
- Thread starter Travelover
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I see now they are saying to replace the calipers along with the pads and rotors. Sure makes brake jobs look expensive these days.
Bird
Rest in Peace
I'm just the opposite; I use the cruise control nearly every time I drive one of our vehicles. Just to go to the grocery store is 2 miles down the I-35E service road; 45 mph speed limit, and I just set the cruise.
This sounds like the same recall I had for my 2001 Ford Ranger and got fixed on 8/6/2007. They didn't even take it back in the shop. The service writer just did it there on the driveway.
Bird
Rest in Peace
The last brake job I helped with was on a brother's F350 dually and we had to replace one caliper and the pads because the pads on just one side were worn out and the piston did not want to retract in that caliper. The other one was good.
ultrarunner
Epic Contributor
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I'm just the opposite; I use the cruise control nearly every time I drive one of our vehicles. Just to go to the grocery store is 2 miles down the I-35E service road; 45 mph speed limit, and I just set the cruise.
When I'm in WA there are several areas with Radar... the speed limit used to be 50 and now is 25 and then goes to 40... I ALWAYS use my cruise control because it is too easy to go faster especially since the speed limit was higher...
I use cruise going down highway 1 in Oregon... lots of radar and way too easy to go fast.
That's enough reason for me to buy. I also have no problem with Canadian or Mexican as they are neighbors.
I have long been a person who would rather buy from someone down the street, as long as the price is within reason; apples to apples. Lets say I need a home airconditioner. I always give the local guy first chance before someone out of the "city". If price is close I go local. Just the way I believe.
Cheers...Coffeeman
ScottAR
Veteran Member
???? Charlz, you've lost me...
I'm not talking about the left rotor vs. the right rotor...
Just the inside surface of each rotor vs the outside surface...
If your pads/rotors are worn about the same
just reuse the caliper.
When someone brings me a set of pads with only one
worn to the backing plate or a rotor that's made
contact with said backing plate there's something
going on more than normal wear.
I'm not talking about the left rotor vs. the right rotor...
Just the inside surface of each rotor vs the outside surface...
If your pads/rotors are worn about the same
just reuse the caliper.
When someone brings me a set of pads with only one
worn to the backing plate or a rotor that's made
contact with said backing plate there's something
going on more than normal wear.
Last edited:
charlz
Elite Member
Sorry, just used your comment as a segue to how 'they' now want you to replace all the calipers even if you don't see an issue.
If 'they' had their way a brake job today consists of 4 new sets of pads, 4 new rotors, 4 new calipers plus an extra charge to bleed the brakes since 'they' opened the system... and don't forget to pay for the new fluid and a disposal fee for the old fluid
I just find this really amusing because I know on my Toyota Sequoia (and I would imagine most newer vehicles) the front brake pad access has been engineered so they can be changed with only having to take the tire off (and maybe without if you have a lift). But now 'they' want you to go ahead and take everything off, replace with new, etc. It's like one step forward, two or three steps back.
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
Got one side done tonight, new rotor and brakes. The brake problem is the pads are just too tight from top to bottom, they won't slide. I need to grind it down to get some clearance.
Bird
Rest in Peace
I'm no mechanic, but I have done a number of brake jobs on both cars and pickups (and travel trailers) and I never heard of such. It would sound to me as if you have the wrong pads or a caliper with the piston not fully seated.
How did you go about pushing the piston back into the caliper before putting new pads on? I've used 5" C clamps and I've also just used my 16" channel locks at times. But keep in mind that I said I'm no mechanic, so maybe I'm misunderstanding the problem.
bp fick
Super Member
No, no. Don't grind anything. You need to use a C clamp and squish the piston back into the caliper. Or, use giant sized channel locks.
edit: Yeah, what Bird said!! He types faster.
