Bird
Rest in Peace
And you don't want to forget to open the brake fluid reservoir, and maybe even take some fluid out so you can push the fluid back with the piston without running the reservoir over.
Car Brake Rotor Replacement / Resurfacing
- Thread starter Travelover
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And you don't want to forget to open the brake fluid reservoir, and maybe even take some fluid out so you can push the fluid back with the piston without running the reservoir over.
bp fick
Super Member
open the caliber bleeder and take the pressure off right there. You should not push fluid back into the master. It's done all the time, but not recommended.
When you are done, you should bleed anyhow. Personally prefer the gravity bleed method for driveway brake jobs. Virtually guarantees no air.
When you are done, you should bleed anyhow. Personally prefer the gravity bleed method for driveway brake jobs. Virtually guarantees no air.
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
I don't think I'm explaining the problem right. The pads have a notch at the top and bottom. These notches ride on metal clips that go over the metal brake assembly. I need to grind the assembly that these clips go over. Right now the pads are very tight. I've done lots of brakes, never had one go on so tight, to where it won't slide out any after the brakes are released, so the pad is always tight against the rotor. Not only does it eat brake pads and rotors, but it also kills gas mileage.
I use the C clamp method for pushing the calipers back in, with brake cap removed. Been doing it this way for many years.
I use the C clamp method for pushing the calipers back in, with brake cap removed. Been doing it this way for many years.
ScottAR
Veteran Member
What dodge are you working on exactly? What part # are you getting?
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
This is a 2001, 1500 Quad cab dodge ram 4x4.
I bought OEM brakes and rotors this time from NAPA.
This has been a problem since I bought the truck, just the one wheel. I think the original caliper part that holds the pads is a little out of spec.
I bought OEM brakes and rotors this time from NAPA.
This has been a problem since I bought the truck, just the one wheel. I think the original caliper part that holds the pads is a little out of spec.
Bird
Rest in Peace
Well, that's something new to me.
OP
Travelover
Elite Member
Anytime I grind or hammer something, it occurs to me a millisecond later why it wouldn't go together in the first place. 
Bird
Rest in Peace
Anytime I grind or hammer something, it occurs to me a millisecond later why it wouldn't go together in the first place.
That's certainly familiar. I've done that, more than once.ultrarunner
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Is it rusted and you are going to lightly clean up the surfaces"
Are the new pads physically the same dimension on the backing plate?
Are the new pads physically the same dimension on the backing plate?
ScottAR
Veteran Member
It's possible the bracket is out of spec or bent.
Measure it out on the "good" side of the truck.
The reason I asked is a few years of late 90's early 00's GMs have
a different set of brakes that's thinner than the rest. Some year
Dodges take the same pads as GMs. I was hoping for a mix up somehow...
Measure it out on the "good" side of the truck.
The reason I asked is a few years of late 90's early 00's GMs have
a different set of brakes that's thinner than the rest. Some year
Dodges take the same pads as GMs. I was hoping for a mix up somehow...
