carport project

/ carport project #1  

Gittyup

Elite Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2007
Messages
3,145
Location
Mid Atlantic
Tractor
Kioti CK25 Shuttle Shift, loaded tires, JD X739
I'm getting one of those steel carports to store my trailer and backhoe attachment under. The carport will be 20 x 26 with closed sides. The spot where I want to put it slopes off about 3 - 4'. So, I put my Kioti to work leveling the spot.

Probably about half finished. The spot I'm excavating is about 40 x 55. This should be big enough to allow for easy access front and back, and to allow for water drainage. My CK25 pulled a heavy gannon 6' box with no problems, even when I had to put the teeth down to break up some shale. And she just sipped fuel. I worked all day and only used 1/2 a tank.

I will post more photos as I progress. Once I have it about level, I will put down some Crush n Run.
 

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/ carport project #2  
Nice project! Will the carport have closed ends/doors? Will you run electric to it? How far from house?
 
/ carport project
  • Thread Starter
#4  
The carport will have closed sides 9 feet tall, but open ends. No electric. It's about 60 yards from the house, and about 40 yards from the shop. It's only to provide cover for my 20 ft equipment trailer and my backhoe attachment. I might also put a pallet rack under the back of the carport to story boxblade, scraper blade, and landscape rake.

The backhoe sure takes up a lot of space. But, I don't want to just tarp it and storing it on the tractor has been less than convenient, especially if I want to use other attachments. Also, need a flat place for the backhoe else it's a pain to put on. Seems like every place I put it, it's in the way. The carport will give it a permanent home out of the weather.
 
/ carport project #5  
Where are the rocks? Where is the snow? Clearly you have a different climate and soil than we do.

I built a 20 x 24' barn last year for the same things. I found I could remove the backhoe and place a couple of 6x6 blocks under it, then swing the backhoe to one side and pull up the outriggers. This significantly reduced the amount of space it takes up.

Please keep us posted with building progress.

Jon
 

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/ carport project
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#6  
Beautiful Barn you have there Jon. Real nice. I want a pole barn. But, the cost is just prohibitive and I don't really need it. Cannot justify it no matter how much I wand one. So, the carport is about the lowest cost durable, semi-permanent cover I could put in place. I think it will look ok and be nearly as protective.

Thanks for the pointers on the backhoe. I'll have to try that. I took it off yesterday to do this excavation job. Man it sure is big! I think it occupies a 12 x 8 space easily with the outriggers down.
 
/ carport project
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I think I'm pretty much done with the excavation. Ready enough for stone anyway.
 

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/ carport project #8  
I think I'm pretty much done with the excavation. Ready enough for stone anyway.

Nice work:thumbsup:

I had a metal carport installed two years ago--20 x 36 ft with 9-ft wall height, side-draining roof. I did the concrete work myself. Crew of 4 installed it in 4 hours. I plan to add sides one of these days.

NPR-1 (1).JPGNPR-1 (2).JPGNPR-3.JPG
 
/ carport project
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Flusher, like the concrete work. Have Thought about doing that. I just can't see a real advantage. Do you think it makes the carport last longer? Better in the wind? Please share your thoughts on why you chose to go with concrete as opposed to just anchoring on the stone.
 
/ carport project #10  
Flusher, like the concrete work. Have Thought about doing that. I just can't see a real advantage. Do you think it makes the carport last longer? Better in the wind? Please share your thoughts on why you chose to go with concrete as opposed to just anchoring on the stone.

In this county, a carport this size has to be engineered (wet signed construction drawings required to pull a building permit) and RV-type anchors are not allowed. The structure has to be designed for 85 mph sustained wind loads, exposure C and seismic zone D. The uplift force on that 20x36 ft carport canopy at 85mph windspeed is about 14,000 lb. The foundation has about 6 yards of concrete weighing around 21,000 lb--a pretty stout anchor. Each side of that carport is held to the foundation by 5 concrete wedge anchors and eight 5/8" dia J-bolts. It took more time and money to do it this way, but I sleep better knowing that my carport isn't going anywhere:D.
 
/ carport project
  • Thread Starter
#11  
I see. That's a lot of concrete. Looks nice, and the piers would keep the stone in place.

Here, because it's on an agricultural lot, there is no permit required. And because it sits down low, winds aren't too bad. Most of the wind goes right over my property at a fairly high altitude. But there is always a chance it could catch some wind (and certainly will). I do plan to use mobile home anchors and mine will be 10 feet shorter than yours. I see countless ones around here that are clearly just anchored in the dirt. Many have been there for years. If mine blows away.... oh well.
 
/ carport project #12  
Gittyup - I am starting the exact same project and like yours, my area slopes quite a bit. Thing is, I'm not that efficient at grading with my tractor so its causing delays. I'm thinking about getting either a 24x26 or 24x24 with 10' foot walls. No sides though as I plan on closing it in with boards. It will look just like a pole barn and most of the framing is already provided. I got the idea from my neighbor who did this and you would never know it was a carport until you walked inside and saw the metal frame tubing.

Got any tips for excavating with a tractor? I have a FEL, Box blade, regular blade and a rake.
 
/ carport project #13  
What should one expect to pay for a self supporting carport...I see ones along the road advertised for $595, but don't know what that might included or not.
I am guessing by the time you get what you want, the price goes right up...
 
/ carport project #14  
What should one expect to pay for a self supporting carport...I see ones along the road advertised for $595, but don't know what that might included or not.
I am guessing by the time you get what you want, the price goes right up...

That $595 one is a 12' X 20' X 5' frame w/21' roof length. I have been doing some pricing last week and found @ <www.carport.com> you can build and price your own and dealers in my local are all within a few $ of the same price.
 
/ carport project #15  
Man that's really nice. How much did it cost minus the cement?
 
/ carport project
  • Thread Starter
#16  
That $595 one is a 12' X 20' X 5' frame w/21' roof length. I have been doing some pricing last week and found @ <www.carport.com> you can build and price your own and dealers in my local are all within a few $ of the same price.

Dennis has it right. A basic carport, for cars is $600 to $700. It's real easy to figure cost, as has been pointed out, the retailers are all within a few dollars of each other. I'm planning on going with Carolina Carports. If you go to their website, there is a price estimator. I think it's pretty accurate after looking around and talking to sellers. I've costed mine, 20 x 26 x 9' gable style, 12 gauge frame upgrade, closed sides at about $2300. That's by far the cheapest structure I could build of this size that provides very good weather protection. It just for my trailer and backhoe attachment. Though I might mount a pallet rack under the back side and put my other ground implements on it. So, complete weather proofing isn't necessary. Kinda like that it's open and drive through.
 
/ carport project
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Gittyup - I am starting the exact same project and like yours, my area slopes quite a bit. Thing is, I'm not that efficient at grading with my tractor so its causing delays. I'm thinking about getting either a 24x26 or 24x24 with 10' foot walls. No sides though as I plan on closing it in with boards. It will look just like a pole barn and most of the framing is already provided. I got the idea from my neighbor who did this and you would never know it was a carport until you walked inside and saw the metal frame tubing.

Got any tips for excavating with a tractor? I have a FEL, Box blade, regular blade and a rake.

I'm no expert. But, don't think you have to be. I simply drag my boxblade around until I have the dirt where I want it, setting the boxblade to dig where I want to dig and setting it to drop and level where I want to raise. A BB works great and only takes a bit to get the hang of. Take a few minutes to figure out at what lenghts the toplink must be set to to cause digging vs. leveling. After you know, that it's pretty simple. It does help to have a hydraulic toplink so you can make these changes on the fly without having to get off the tractor and screw in/out the TL. I also touch up and move around little piles of loose dirt with the loader. Just do it, what can it hurt? Dirt will move again if you get it wrong.

Good idea no using your own siding. I doubt it'll be cheaper than the steel unless you already have it. I think the cost for steel sides only adds about $180. But, if you use your own, you can get the look you want, which could be a big plus. If I decide the close the cables on mine, I might do that. This where they get ya. It's like $500 per end.
 
/ carport project
  • Thread Starter
#18  
General Lee, Perhaps I could provide more information on the excavation for you, as I too was a little daunted at how to go about it initially. I don't claim that what I did was right nor the best, but I think the outcome is acceptable.

First I pullled the top soil off the high side and set it out of the way for reuse at the end. I did not disturb the earth on the low side. I then angled my box so that it set level while the tractor was setting across the slope long ways (tractor down/up hill side to side). With this angle I begain cutting across the slope at the high side pulling the dirt to the low end and down the hill at the end of the run. I repeated this until I had a "cliff" about 4' high (slope dependent) at the up hill side. Then I moved down to the next "row" and cut some off there in the same fashion. I then leveled my bb w.r.t. the tractor and pulled cross ways from uphill side to down hill side until the whole thing was about level. Occasionally when the piles were starting to build up on the low side I would switch the bb to leveling rather than cutting and smooth, spread and compact the down hill fill dirt. There were two shelves of shale rock that would not cut easily. For these, I used the teeth to break up, and then collected and move the loose material. Once I got it about where I wanted it, I then smoothed and leveled the whole work area using the bb by driving around all over, changing direction and approach several times.

After I had the area prepped, I then went above the cliff and starting cutting with my loader about 5 feet from the edge, pushing the cut dirt over the cliff. I repeated until the cliff became a slope. I then filled in and dressed it up with the top soil I had collected at the beginning. Then I compacted with the tractor, back dragged with the loader, and smoothed with the bb. Once I finished, I went to the bottom of the bank and cleaned up at the base. The end result was a slope gentle enough to mow across safely. I was even able to pull the bb across it sideways. My bank does have a slight hump in it because the shale runs through it and I was too lazy to break up the shale. I just decided it was good enough.


For drainage, as a last step, I tilted my bb up hill a little and cut in a few passes at the bottom of the slope so that water off the roof of the carport will flow away from the pad toward the bottom of the bank. I then made sure that this low spot sloped off longetudinally into the woods. The hope is that the water will collect in this slight culvert and flow off into the woods.

I have not dressed in the low side of the fill area of the pad. I'm going to wait for it to settle a bit first. After that, I plan to put in 2 truck loads of CnR where the carport will sit and the rest will get grass seed after raking.
 
/ carport project
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Update. Got the stone today. Spread and leveled out to about 4 - 5". Is that thick enough? I laid down plastic first to keep the stone out of the dirt. Kioti action photos below.
 

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#20  
A couple more. The rake let me get it nice and level. Got dark before I could take a photo of the finished surface. Now question is do I go for 6" thick?
 

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