Carry low

   / Carry low #1  

fatjay

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2015
Messages
1,671
Location
Eastern PA
Tractor
Not enough
Was moving dirt on the kubota b7200. Little tractor, big jobs, it does pretty well for what it is. Ran into the dirt pile and got a good scoop. Left side was heavier, I could feel it. I backed up and the right rear tire came over a mount of dirt, and the back end came up, and everything started to roll left.

I had my right hand on the controls and left on the grab handle, but I was going left, and I began to fall out. I put my left foot down on the ground to stop myself from falling, and I saw the tractor coming down and the foot rest was going to hit me mid calf when the tractor fell, and my brain was screaming MOVE.

It all happened in slow motion, my mind was racing, right arm was searching for grab handle, right foot was on reverse, which was the wrong thing, left hand still holding it's grab handle. Just then, the bucket hit the ground, and everything stopped. It gave me a split second to re-orient myself, right hand lowering bucket, in forward to come off the hump that elevated the right rear tire, left hand steering left to turn into the roll to push weight to the outside.

If that bucket hadn't hit the ground at that moment just before hitting the point of no return, I'm fairly certain I'd have lost my leg at least from the knee down.

Also I'm gonna need a ballast box.
 
   / Carry low #2  
Glad that you’re ok and only your pants were a casualty. Sounds like a sobering experience. Rear ballast is where it’s at. I prefer both filled tires and my heaviest implement. I’ve never owned a ballast box, preferring an implement instead. And always a seat belt and ROPs up. Glad that you’re OK.
 
   / Carry low
  • Thread Starter
#3  
ROPS up, no seat belt. I'm on and off the tractor to much, i know I wouldn't keep up with it.

I don't want an implement or ballast box, the machine's small size and short base is important for where I'm working. I think I'm going to lower the 3pt arms and put a bar between them and put weights on it. I don't want to make the machine any longer than necessary. I bet I could get 400lb on it.
 
   / Carry low #4  
Bx weight bar. It is now up to about 420 pounds.

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Bruce
 
   / Carry low
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Found a guy locally selling suitcase weights, so i'll have 240lb to start.

My right rear tire is oddly always hte one that wants to come up when I lift heavy. I checked tire pressures and they're all good. I wonder if there's something with the loader frame that's out of wack.
 
   / Carry low #6  
Glad the out come was in your favorer,somewhat of hard lesson to learn but good one.
 
   / Carry low #7  
I had both rear tires lift on my first tractor - Ford 1700. I was moving wet sand with the bucket. I could DEFINITELY feel it getting "light in the loafers". Dropped that bucket full of sand like a hot potato.

I became much more careful/aware. Nothing like that since that one time.

If it's going to be a REALLY heavy lift - rock or tree trunk - lift VERY slowly. You will or will not get "that feeling" and know what to do. Besides - on really heavy lifts - I never get the load more than six inches off the ground. I call it - "knuckle dragging". Many times the grapple will leave drag marks in the soil - as I move the load.
 
   / Carry low #8  
Been there, done that, even with loaded rear tires.

I usually try to have my brush hog hooked up when doing liader work; that provides enough stability for most work.

Even with the brush hog on, I have learned to always keep a full bucket as low as possible.
 
   / Carry low #9  
Found a guy locally selling suitcase weights, so i'll have 240lb to start.

My right rear tire is oddly always hte one that wants to come up when I lift heavy. I checked tire pressures and they're all good. I wonder if there's something with the loader frame that's out of wack.
Suitcase weights are a way to go, and you can buy or weld up your own frame to hold them. The nice thing there is you can vary the ballast according to the task.

I know you said you don't want a ballast box, but it is a good way to make something that is the most compact and useful method of quickly adding weight, and of course they do not add to the wheelbase of the tractor at all. They do extend LOA, but not wheelbase.

Filled tires are probably also recommended in the user manual for your loader or tractor. They do make for a stiffer ride, and can't be easily unloaded when you want to run light, but if you usually have the loader mounted anyway...

Speaking of which, Deere puts tables in both the loader and the tractor manuals, showing recommended ballast for various tractor/loader combinations. This is usually very conservative, including filled tires + wheel weights + 3-point ballast. The main advantage of ballast on the 3-point is that it's the only way to remove weight from the front axle, which is usually recommended with today's higher-capacity loaders.

I actually made my own custom ballast box, starting with a stock John Deere box and welding what I wanted onto that. I sunk four 3" PVC tubes into the box before filling it with concrete, and they're the most handy rake and shovel holders I've ever known. In fact, I couldn't imagine using my machine for yard work, without that handy tool carrier. I also left the top dished, as that's where I carry all my log skidding chains, chainsaw, and even my thermos. I welded bars onto it for mounting 17 suitcase weights, either 42 lb. or 70 lb., and even welded a trailer hitch to the rear of the box. The hitch is a lifesaver, as it moves the hitch about 6 feet aft of my rear axle (bigger tractor than yours), giving me the steering drawbar throw capability I need for backing up 4-wheel wagons with steerable front axles.

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If you have a welder, you can make your own box any size you want, even keep it super-short or invert it to sit up between the lower arms of the 3-point for zero added length. Just keep in mind that you want the weight low, and that placing it further aft of the rear axle makes the weight both more effective as loader counterbalance, and removes more weight from front axle by pivoting on rear axle fulcrum.
 
   / Carry low #10  
Maybe take smaller bites until you can add enough rear weight. Could you grade the hump down?
 
 
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