Case 300 Won't Stay Running When Hot

[Iplayfarmer]

My Case 300 (gas) starts every time like it's brand new. The problem, though, is that after it's been running for about 10 minutes it will die. I can start it back up, and it will run for 10 or 15 seconds, but then it dies again. It seems the longer I let it sit after this happens, the longer it will run before it dies.

My first guess it that it's something related to heat... Ignition coil or some kind of vapor lock issue. Where do I start, and how do I test a coil if it works intermitently?

 

[Ford850]

It sounds like restricted fuel to me. It could also be the vent on the fuel cap that is not working properly.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

It sounds like restricted fuel to me. It could also be the vent on the fuel cap that is not working properly.

I tried it without the fuel cap. No better.

Would a fuel restriction come and go with heat like that? I've had this tractor running a half dozen times so far, and it's done the same thing every time. Whatever is going on is definately something related to having the tractor running for a while before the problem happens.

 

[AV8R62]

most likley a condenser or coil
pull the coil wire from the distributor as soon as it dies and see if you can get a good blue spark from the wire to the frame when you crqank the engine.
if you do then check fuel flow to the carburator, remove the drain plug from the carburator bowl and let it drain compleatly and their should still be a smallstream coming from the tank.

 

[banjodunn]

G'day you may find you have got a blockage up near the fuel tank/tap area pull the tapout and give it a good blow out into a rag to see what is in there i once had a MF that had a small stone in the tap and it would start but then stop may go for a minute may go for two that stone was really tight. Good luck



Jon

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I decided to start by troubleshooting the fuel system since that was free.

I pulled the fuel line to the carb and there was a pretty meager flow. I followed the line one piece at a time clear back to the tank. The fuel shutoff valve that screws into the bottom of the tank has a screen filter. There was a bunch of crud in the screen that I blew out with compressed air. Now the flow is much better.

I still don't know if that was the problem because I poked a hole in the radiator when I was replacing all the sheet metal that I had to remove to be able to get a wrench onto the screen in the bottom of the tank. I can't run the tractor very long to see if it dies because the radiator is leaking. I can't patch the radiator because it's late enough that I have to wait till tomorrow to go buy some stop leak.

Here's hoping that the fuel screen really was the problem so that the tractor will run long enough to get the radiator up to temp so that the stop leak will work.

 

[dirt ditch]

Dad's old Case 300 and 400 tractors have the same problem because they don't get used since he retired from farming a few years ago. Last time we used them was to do some dirt work for a new shed. Rust in the fuel tank would plug the line every 5-10 minutes. We had an air compressor handy to blow the line back out into the tank. If he used them more often he would take the tanks off and clean them out, but retirement has it's own priorities.

 

[Bill444]

I would disconnest fuel line from carb. and check flow. If good, try replacing coil. A condenser either works or doesn't work so that doesn't need to be replaced.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Apparently cleaning the screen in the fuel shut of valve did the trick. I ran the tractor for about an hour today without any issues.

The radiator stop leak must have worked too, because I didn't see any green stuff coming out of the front of the tractor.

 

[banjodunn]

I would disconnest fuel line from carb. and check flow. If good, try replacing coil. A condenser either works or doesn't work so that doesn't need to be replaced.

G'day Bill food for thought you are correct a condensor will either work or not usually found by having a badly burned set of points however they can give alot of trouble on old 6v systems causing all sorts of headaches if they are a bit dicky so dont rule them out as the cause of some running probs

Jon