Case 530 TLB Point Gap?

[brianidaho]

I'm borrowing a friends Case 530 Construction King TLB, and need to replace the points. Can anyone tell me what the proper setting for point gap is?

Thanks.
Brian

 

[Richard]

Points?

Is it a gasoline engine?

If it's a gas engine, I have no clue, if it's a diesel engine, there shouldn't be any points.

/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[normde2001]

We used to set everything with matchbook covers, .020" oughta work.

 

[brianidaho]

Thanks, I used to do the same thing with matchbook covers! I think that's supposed to be .022, .020 sounds good. I tried there and it ran poorly, ended up opening the gap. Probably a combination of getting the gap right and playing with timing. I haven't had much time to work on this rig.

Bri

 

[normde2001]

You might try .015-.025" and see if any improvement before messing with timing. Point gap is nothing more than fine adjustment of ignition timing, firing at the exact time the points open. To be really accurate you need the correct dwell, and the gap is whatever it is.

 

[brianidaho]

Cursiorer and cursiorer...

I had replaced the points a couple of weeks ago, and set them, per my post, more open than specified, around .035-.04. This was by eye after it wouldn't run at .022. I noticed some play in the distributor bushing tonight, might explain why it wanted more open.

Anyway, when I replaced the points, the old ones were severly burned, as in mostly missing, at the contact area. Now, after maybe 20 hours of operation, the new ones are showing considerable wear. Is there anything that causes rapid point wear?

Bri

 

[Lazy]

Hi

You should replace the condenser that should help. The condenser suppresses the arc and keeps the points from burning when the points open.

Charlie.

 

[Richard]

I sure wish this thread would die soon, so my public display of ignorance displayed at the top will be buried faster! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

/forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

I had no idea those wern't diesel

 

[brianidaho]

Oh yeah, sorry I didn't respond Richard, it is a gasser. I should have provided more background, I replaced both the points and condensor a couple of weeks ago, when it was running poorly, it was OK when not under load, but spitting and sputtering and stalling when loaded up. I replaced the points and condensor, and set the gap to .022. When it didn't fire properly, I opened the point gap, by eye to where around the old ones were (these were badly burned). She fired right up, and I left it. Well, the other night it started spitting again, I pulled the points again (after my first post here) and see that they are fairly worn, considering how new they are. The guy I'm borrowing it from suggests a ballest resistor, I'm going to pick up a new set of points and BR tonight and install them.

Bri

 

[Richard]

ya just HAD to boost it back to the top, didn't ya?

/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[AV8R62]

A "ballest resistor" will make them last longer
however it can also make them hard to start.
and that can be fixed by replacing the starter solenoid
with one that has the second small terminal on it (if if doesn't already have one) that terminal will send a full 12V around the resistor to the coil while the starter is engaged

 

[normde2001]

I believe I would get after that distributor bushing or a new distributor. The points are probably arcing excessively due to bouncing when opening and closing, because of the wear.