Case 930 Cofort King Transmission

[HogSlayer6]

I have a Case 930 that won't shift into the high range. I called a local dealer and he said it was a common problem but didn't know what the cause or fix was. Does anyone know what the problem is and how it can be fixed. I lent it to my nephew and it just quite working. I had been having trouble with it kicking out before that so I can't really blame him for it. The tractor is getting up in years and one or more of the previous owners had not taken the best of care of the machine. Any info would be helpful.

Jack

 

[MMM]

Grinding or just won't shift?

 

[HogSlayer6]

Mac

Sorry I took so long to get back to your question. It won't shift into the high side at all. It doesn't grind, it just won't go into the highside. I thougt it was just a linkage problem but I popped the shifter assy off and moved the fork by hand and it still doesn't go in. Right after I got it back from my nephew, he was using it when it went bad, I got it to go into high for a couple of hours and then it popped back out and has never gone back in.

Jack

 

[RyanL]

I have a case 811-b gas case-o-matic it was doing the same thing so i split the tractor and on the range shaft that the high and low range gears ride on. On the end of that shaft there is a bolt that hold that shaft from moving back. That bolt falls out and the shaft slides back and lets the high range gear move so it will no longer contact the other gear. This is a common problem with Case. You have to seperate the torque convertor housing from the trans housing.

I am only 18 yrs old and this was my first time splitting a tractor.
T
his project was a little difficult i would not attemt it if you don't have tools or a big hoist.

P.S. if it has been this way for a while you will have to buy a couple new bearings (pretty costly).

If you have any questions or problems just ask.

RyanL

 

[MMM]

Ditto on my response. I'm 7hrs ahead of CST right now.
No grind, it's like Ryan said then. I know where an 830 tranny is in LA if you'd rather not dig ninto it. I didn't see your location on bio last time I looked. I don't know if it's a 6-1 or 8-2 though.

 

[HogSlayer6]

Ryan and Mac

Thanks for the info. I at least have some idea of what the problem is now.

Wow, cracking a tractor apart at 18, you must be some kind of mechanical super-genious. Heck I am 38 and the the thought of doing this is scaring the dirty words out of me.

I have a shop with what I would assume is the necessary tools ( 1" drive socket set up to 2 1/2" shallow well, welders ARC and OXYACET, and the various tools you would expect on a farm) I am just wondering about the HOIST you mentioned.

The manual on the 930 says the tractor itself weight 9600 lbs plus I have a HUGE loader on it that probably weighs close to 2500 lbs.

I have plenty of 4" square steel from an old bus-station that was torn down near here. I could build a custom hoist if that is what I need to do to break the front away from the back. What did the hoist look like? Was it the typical swing-set/A-frame sort of thing or something more elaborate. I have several 12 ton hydraulic jacks from a house sub-flooring earlier this year.

What kind of cost do you have for the bearings you mentioned. Less than $300 or more?

How long did it take you to do the work? My problem is that the farm shop and tractor are about 275 miles from where I am now so I can only go down on weekends to work on it.

Any insight or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Jack

 

[RyanL]

Well i am going to school for diesel mechanic. All i had was 2 ton chain hoist, hand tools and a 3/4 drive socket set, and torch.

What i did was wrap a chain around the back of the engine and attached to hoist. Then i stuck blocks between the wide front axle and the front wieghts to keep the engine from flopping around. Then i placed a 2 ton floor jack under thr trans housing, And unbolted the torque convertor housing from the engine.

Then get a couple guys to help put one on each back wheel and one on the jack and roll the rear half from the front half.

Now to remove the torque convertor you will need to make a tool to bolt to the convertor and hook to chain hoist in order to pull out and lift up the convertor. This part is a bit tricky (probally the hardest part).

Back inside the torque convertor housing is 4 big nuts one in each corner. Remove them and take the hoist and remove housing. With housing removed you can see the bolt at the top left hand side of trans housing (looking at it from the front).

ALL this is done with hood, fuel tank and trans cover removed, I removed the front and rear cover,and any other small item you may see hendering the seperation process.

Once you get this far ask more question i will give answers.

P.S. I would purchase a repair manual for torque specs, etc.

RyanL

 

[RyanL]

The cost i have in parts for that part of my restoration is:

High range gear $85.00 Used

Sliding gear shaft center bearing $170 new

Sliding gear shaft rear bearing $100 new

Motor to torque convertor housing gastet $27.00

Torque convertor housing to trans housing gasket I had to use silcon because they do not make a gasket to match my housing for some reason.

The trans covers you can buy gaskets but i used silcon.

The reason why i had to replace the high range gears is because mine was chewed up do to the fact that someone kept driving it in low range which missed up some stuff.

Amazingly none of the silcon leaks.

RyanL