Case Model S - How Much To Rebuild?
- Thread starter cjcocn
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rtdiggr
Platinum Member
We're here to help, just take it apart into different groups, and start asking questions.
Good luck,
Eddie[/QUOTE]
That makes us sound like a intervention group i like it
Shane
Good luck,
Eddie[/QUOTE]
That makes us sound like a intervention group i like it
Shane
rtdiggr said:That makes us sound like a intervention group i like it
Shane
Was that "intervention" or "instigation"?
I would still jack the rear off the ground clamp the clutch down and spin the rear tires with the trans in each gear. Listen for what sounds it makes. There should be few. Clunks, pops, and any catches are all in the "Bad" category.
Hopefully, it just needs a new clutch, oil seals and some love.
Best way to learn a lot about it is to tear into it.
jb
RobS
Super Member
Sounds like a great project and you are enjoying a bit of good forture as you progress. There are a lot of technical books available but one, not so technical, that I can recommend is "Old Tractors, and the Men Who Love Them" by Roger Welsch. It's a humorous read based on a situation very similar to yours.
... and where are the pictures???
... and where are the pictures???
KYErik
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2005
- Messages
- 909
- Location
- South central IL
- Tractor
- 1977 AC 7000, 1980 JD 2840, 1963 Case 930, 1963 Ford 4000, 1943 Case SC, Case 530CK backhoe
Wow- I am very surprised that you are able to turn the engine by hand. This is a good thing.
No offense, but- are you sure you don't mean that you turned the "belt pulley" (on the right side of the tractor). Since the belt pulley is hooked into the transmission, you will have to push the clutch lever forward to spin the engine.
Or did you turn the front pulley (just behind the radiator)? This would definitely mean that the engine is turning.
If the engine is indeed free, I would:
1.Fill the crankcase with fresh oil and remove the oil pressure sensor fitting from the engine block (follow the tiny tube from the oil pressure gauge down to the engine block)
2. Turn the engine a few revolutions by hand without the spark plugs, make sure there is are no scraping sounds and no "hard spots"
3. Look to see that the valves are opening and closing, if one is stuck open, spray some penetrating oil around the stem and lightly tap the top of the stem with a rubber mallet. If it just goes down a little further and stays, remove the rocker arm and carefully clamp some vice grips over the end and try to twist and pull it back up. My Case model S would occationally have a valve stick and it would bend that push rod. Don't worry, the push rods can be sstraightened.
4. Once the valves are working correctly, crank the engine with the starter and verify that oil is coming out of the block where the gauge tube was plugged in (this mean the oil pump is working). Then plug a good gauge in and crank it some more to get everything lubed up and see what kind of cranking oil pressure you have
5. Put a compressing tester in one spark plug hole at a time and crank the engine to see how much compression each cylinder has.
For the transmission, you can spin the belt pulley (the one on the right side of the tractor) when the transmission is in each gear to verify that all of teh gears work (jack up one or both rear wheels when you do this)
No offense, but- are you sure you don't mean that you turned the "belt pulley" (on the right side of the tractor). Since the belt pulley is hooked into the transmission, you will have to push the clutch lever forward to spin the engine.
Or did you turn the front pulley (just behind the radiator)? This would definitely mean that the engine is turning.
If the engine is indeed free, I would:
1.Fill the crankcase with fresh oil and remove the oil pressure sensor fitting from the engine block (follow the tiny tube from the oil pressure gauge down to the engine block)
2. Turn the engine a few revolutions by hand without the spark plugs, make sure there is are no scraping sounds and no "hard spots"
3. Look to see that the valves are opening and closing, if one is stuck open, spray some penetrating oil around the stem and lightly tap the top of the stem with a rubber mallet. If it just goes down a little further and stays, remove the rocker arm and carefully clamp some vice grips over the end and try to twist and pull it back up. My Case model S would occationally have a valve stick and it would bend that push rod. Don't worry, the push rods can be sstraightened.
4. Once the valves are working correctly, crank the engine with the starter and verify that oil is coming out of the block where the gauge tube was plugged in (this mean the oil pump is working). Then plug a good gauge in and crank it some more to get everything lubed up and see what kind of cranking oil pressure you have
5. Put a compressing tester in one spark plug hole at a time and crank the engine to see how much compression each cylinder has.
For the transmission, you can spin the belt pulley (the one on the right side of the tractor) when the transmission is in each gear to verify that all of teh gears work (jack up one or both rear wheels when you do this)
KYErik
Thanks for the response.
The engine turns over. I have the head off and can see the pistons move. Trust me, they is freed up.
I am finishing up an (truck) install on my plow, but will post a couple of tractor pics later today to show where I am at. Basically, everything is off the front and all that I have to do in that area is to pull the oil pan and have a look inside from the bottom.
While I am still unclear as to which part is which (I know starters, magnetos, etc as I have come to know them on vehicles) due to my unfamiliarity with tractors, I will figure out the transmission pulley and let you know.
Right now I am gathering info (parts diagrams and parts list) from the www so that I can have something to refer to until my manuals arrive.
I should be done the plow install in a couple of hours and unless it keeps snowing and I have to plow immediately, I will post some tractor pics this evening.
Thanks!
Thanks for the response.
The engine turns over. I have the head off and can see the pistons move. Trust me, they is freed up.
I am finishing up an (truck) install on my plow, but will post a couple of tractor pics later today to show where I am at. Basically, everything is off the front and all that I have to do in that area is to pull the oil pan and have a look inside from the bottom.
While I am still unclear as to which part is which (I know starters, magnetos, etc as I have come to know them on vehicles) due to my unfamiliarity with tractors, I will figure out the transmission pulley and let you know.
Right now I am gathering info (parts diagrams and parts list) from the www so that I can have something to refer to until my manuals arrive.
I should be done the plow install in a couple of hours and unless it keeps snowing and I have to plow immediately, I will post some tractor pics this evening.
Thanks!
KYErik
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2005
- Messages
- 909
- Location
- South central IL
- Tractor
- 1977 AC 7000, 1980 JD 2840, 1963 Case 930, 1963 Ford 4000, 1943 Case SC, Case 530CK backhoe
Sounds great!
You can tap the intake and exhaust valves lightly from both sides to get them loosened up.
How do the cylinder bores look? Any pitting or just a light coating of rust?
The plug under the clutch housing is an engine oil drain- the clutch is bathed in engine oil that seeps over from the main front oil pan.
You can tap the intake and exhaust valves lightly from both sides to get them loosened up.
How do the cylinder bores look? Any pitting or just a light coating of rust?
The plug under the clutch housing is an engine oil drain- the clutch is bathed in engine oil that seeps over from the main front oil pan.
Intake and exhaust valves are loose, no pitting or rust on the cylinder bores whatsoever. There is a little bit of carbon buildup on the piston heads, but considering the age of this tractor the pistons look quite good.
... that plug under the clutch - that's the one that held a little water, but maybe only half a cup and, considering the size of the internal area, I can't see that being enough water to crack anything (although I will check everything for cracks).
I should head back out now. The truck is back together with the plow mount installed and I am warm enough to go have a look at that wiring.
Thanks.
... that plug under the clutch - that's the one that held a little water, but maybe only half a cup and, considering the size of the internal area, I can't see that being enough water to crack anything (although I will check everything for cracks).
I should head back out now. The truck is back together with the plow mount installed and I am warm enough to go have a look at that wiring.
Thanks.
KYErik
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2005
- Messages
- 909
- Location
- South central IL
- Tractor
- 1977 AC 7000, 1980 JD 2840, 1963 Case 930, 1963 Ford 4000, 1943 Case SC, Case 530CK backhoe
Wow- that is all great news. If the head gasket is copper and is still in decent shape, you might try to reuse it just long enough to check the compression.
A half a cup of water wouldn't have hurt anything. When I drained my transmission housing a few years ago, I got at least a quart of water out and no harm was done. If the rubber transmission shifter boot is not in good shape, rainwater will run down into the trans.
You should be able to check for oil flow (oil pump function) and check the magneto out even without putting the head back on.
Who knows, the only reason it was parked might have been something simple like a magneto problem or a dead battery or a flat tire.
A half a cup of water wouldn't have hurt anything. When I drained my transmission housing a few years ago, I got at least a quart of water out and no harm was done. If the rubber transmission shifter boot is not in good shape, rainwater will run down into the trans.
You should be able to check for oil flow (oil pump function) and check the magneto out even without putting the head back on.
Who knows, the only reason it was parked might have been something simple like a magneto problem or a dead battery or a flat tire.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
I'd check for taper in the cylinder walls. Is there a ridge at the top of the walls?
Get some plasti gauge and look at the wear in your bearings. Maybe you'll get lucky and only have to replace them without any machine work
Put a straight edge on the head. If there's any warping, you should be able to see it. I'd have the head rebuilt no matter what. Grind the valves and replace any that are bad. New springs, stems and seats for sure. Even if it was just used lightly, there's gonna be enough wear to justify doing it.
Eddie
Get some plasti gauge and look at the wear in your bearings. Maybe you'll get lucky and only have to replace them without any machine work
Put a straight edge on the head. If there's any warping, you should be able to see it. I'd have the head rebuilt no matter what. Grind the valves and replace any that are bad. New springs, stems and seats for sure. Even if it was just used lightly, there's gonna be enough wear to justify doing it.
Eddie
