Cat 1 & Cat 3 Compatibility

[Danica]

Hi all you tractor guys, i have a very pressing question to which I need an answer very quickly. I have TC40DA New Holland plus a bunch of implements ranging from a CSR 84 snowblower to a 7308 BH Post Hole Digger 60-inch tiller and various others. The thing is, it is very difficult for me to put the backhoe on my tractor. It takes muscle I don't have and time, too. Please don't suggest I get some sort of rolling dolly for the backhoe cuz I'm not interested. The bottom line is I want another tractor and I have an opportunity to get a Ford 8000. I only want a Ford or NH cuz they are the only ones that are BLUE and all my implements are BLUE. Color is important to me. So, my question is can i run all my implements for the TC40DA on a Ford 8000??? The NH is a Cat 1 and the Ford is a Cat 3. I do understand they're both 540 rpm PTOs but is there also an issue with the diameter of the pins/holes in the 3-point?

please answer ASAP cuz i have to make a decision right away. it is $7,500 and he is willing to deliver it to me. I need an answer really soon since i have to call him with a definitive answer tonight!

thanks in advance for your thoughtful replies.

kr,
Danica:bambi:

 

[onelostdogg]

Danica, paint is cheap...even blue paint! Don't ignore other options.

 

[jenkinsph]

There is a big difference in size between the TC40DA compact 40hp and a Ford 8000 row crop 100+ hp tractor. I would not expect to share implements between these two sizes of tractors. While they are both blue that is about all these tractors have in common and I am not sure these blues are the same either.

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

Danica, here are the differences in Cat 1 and Cat 3 (I think):

Category 1
Toplink Pins are 3/4" diameter
Lift Arm Pins are 7/8" diameter

Category 3
Toplink Pins are 1 1/4" diameter
Lift Arm Pins are 1 7/16" diameter

So you would have to find a bushing thick enough to sleeve the tractor's toplink and lift arm pins from 1-1/4" to 3/4" for the top link, and 1-7/16" to 7/8" for the lift arms.

Then the real problem begins, which is that a 100hp tractor is very likely to pretzel up any Category 1 implement that somehow gets hitched up to it. It just has way more power than a Category 1 implement is designed to handle.

The Ford 8000 may be a good deal, but you will need to budget for appropriately sized implements for it.

 

[Danica]

There is a big difference in size between the TC40DA compact 40hp and a Ford 8000 row crop 100+ hp tractor. I would not expect to share implements between these two sizes of tractors. While they are both blue that is about all these tractors have in common and I am not sure these blues are the same either.

Ok, i'm getting the picture -- the Ford 8000 is a gigantic monster weighing close to 10,000lbs and it would just squish the lawn around my house and is probably major overkill. I guess that is a done deal. Now i have found a Ford 6000 but i understand that when you see these you should run the other way cuz the transmissions were a total disaster.

 

[Danica]

Danica, here are the differences in Cat 1 and Cat 3 (I think):

Category 1
Toplink Pins are 3/4" diameter
Lift Arm Pins are 7/8" diameter

Category 3
Toplink Pins are 1 1/4" diameter
Lift Arm Pins are 1 7/16" diameter

So you would have to find a bushing thick enough to sleeve the tractor's toplink and lift arm pins from 1-1/4" to 3/4" for the top link, and 1-7/16" to 7/8" for the lift arms.

Then the real problem begins, which is that a 100hp tractor is very likely to pretzel up any Category 1 implement that somehow gets hitched up to it. It just has way more power than a Category 1 implement is designed to handle.

The Ford 8000 may be a good deal, but you will need to budget for appropriately sized implements for it.

Thank you, this is now becoming very clear to me and I am moving on to a different tractor: a Ford 6000 but i have reservations since it has a bad reputation...

 

[jenkinsph]

Ok, i'm getting the picture -- the Ford 8000 is a gigantic monster weighing close to 10,000lbs and it would just squish the lawn around my house and is probably major overkill. I guess that is a done deal. Now i have found a Ford 6000 but i understand that when you see these you should run the other way cuz the transmissions were a total disaster.

The 6000 is still too big for your implements, look for a tractor similar to what you have. I would consider a 40 to 60 hp compact or utility tractor. If you have a hydrostatic tractor now for close up work you might consider an older gear tractor or used work master 55 to fill in.

Really think you are limiting yourself by buying blue only. Years ago my sister had me find a tractor for her ranch and I found her a good used Case tractor which was orange and cream colored. She had me paint it blue gray, that's what she wanted. She wound up with a good tractor for her needs in the color she liked, you might be better off doing something similar.

Setting colors aside I use two tractors the 110tlb and the 4520 compact without fel. Both have cabs and are about the same size machines. I can share all implements between them and both have hydrostatic transmissions. I also have an x749 garden tractor for mowing and close quarters work with a 3ph and 540 pto. All the tractors use a quick hitch, have the same pedal arrangement and all are diesel 4x4. I have for the most part one set of smaller implements for the garden tractor and a larger set for the larger tractors. I bought the 110tlb first and later bought the 4520 cab tractor to use for 3ph implements only. This means that 90% of the time I can leave the backhoe on the 110tlb but can remove it and use as a tractor if necessary. The garden tractor/mower is kept light and is used for finished lawns most of the time but can handle the close quarters work around trees and smaller areas during landscape construction.