Cat 1 vs 2 hydraulic 3pt hitch top links

   / Cat 1 vs 2 hydraulic 3pt hitch top links #1  

Jason280

Silver Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2012
Messages
103
Location
Ga
Tractor
Kubota L4330
I have a Kubota L4630 with hydraulics on one of the lower 3pt hitch links and the top link as well. The top link hydraulic cylinder started leaking around the ram seal, but we have been unable to get the gland nut removed to rebuild the cylinder. Took it to one of the local hydraulic shops that has rebuilt several cylinders for me, and they can't get it removed either. Only option is to try and cut it off on the lathe, and who knows where that may all lead (or how much it will ultimately cost).

Financially, it may be cheaper to simply buy a replacement cylinder. There are tons of options online for Cat 1 & Cat 2 replacement cylinders, anywhere from $141 to well over $300. Some of the cat 1 kits include hoses, and some even have a locking valve. Question is, as long as the stroke is long enough, any reason not to stick with a Cat 1? Other than pin size, cylinder should have plenty of force to move any of the implements I use.

Suggestions? Heaviest implement I normally use with the tractor maybe 2k lbs, mostly used with a rollover box blade or 6' bush hog.
 
   / Cat 1 vs 2 hydraulic 3pt hitch top links #2  
I recommend a cat 1 top link built with a 2 1/2" dia cylinder with a 1 1/2" dia rod with a working length of 21"-31". Your tractor has a cat 1 3pt hitch, not sure why you would even be considering a cat 2 unit? :unsure:

The most common cat 1 top links are 2" dia cylinders with either 1 1/8"- 1 1/4" dia rod. While these are technically strong enough, they are borderline strong enough for the capabilities of your tractor IMO. I have seen too many damaged units in the 2" category when used for tractors that have over a 3000lb 3pt lift capability.

Good luck with your search and final decision. :)
 
   / Cat 1 vs 2 hydraulic 3pt hitch top links #3  
Sage advice from the leading expert.
 
   / Cat 1 vs 2 hydraulic 3pt hitch top links
  • Thread Starter
#4  
I haven't been able to get my cylinder back yet from the shop, I need to check the OAL length collapsed vs fully extended.

Looking back, I wonder if we didn't didn't kill the cylinder using it with a 2 row bottom plow in hard packed red Georgia dirt.
 
   / Cat 1 vs 2 hydraulic 3pt hitch top links #5  
Look at this link, get the asked for dimension, find a unit that has the asked for dimension at mid-stroke plus or minus a bit is fine. THAT is typically the best way to determine what working length will work best for your conditions.

People go on about checking the collapsed and extended dimensions of the factory manual link. I have found that about 50% of the OEM links are wrong for the machine that they are on.

Good luck. :)
 
 

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