Caulking Help!

   / Caulking Help! #13  
As a aside: I painted my pipe showing above the roof line in high temp BBQ Black, Satin and used the silicon over that. Looks great and is still sticking.
 
   / Caulking Help!
  • Thread Starter
#14  
I found a tube of flashing & gutter caulk that has a 3 hour "rain ready" time, so I think I will try that. I remember using gutter caulk in the past, and it is some seriously goopy thick stuff that skins over quickly. I also bought a tube of black roofing sealant that I can use to hold down the edges of the shingles that overlap the flashing.

High temperature is not a major concern (I think) since the double-walled 4" chimney pipe is really just acting like a non-combustable "tunnel" for the 2" exhaust tubing that will go up the middle of the stack. I plan to leave a ~1" air gap around most of the exhaust pipe, but might stuff a wad of fiberglass insulation in near the top of the chimney to cut down on possible rattles and to seal off the opening.

I was able to scrape and wash off the DAP caulk with hot water fairly easily tonight, though it wasn't fun in cold temps with the wind howling. It had started to skin over in some areas, but was still wet in others. It had left some milky drips down on the generator's muffler below, but those wiped up pretty easily.

Thanks for all the input guys. Live and learn!
 
   / Caulking Help! #15  
Polybutylene caulk (what I think is being referred to as "gutter calk") can be applied below 40*...not sure it will cure at lower temps but is a good suggestion...
Regardless...be sure to check the seal when weather warms...
 
   / Caulking Help! #16  
I found a tube of flashing & gutter caulk that has a 3 hour "rain ready" time, so I think I will try that. I remember using gutter caulk in the past, and it is some seriously goopy thick stuff that skins over quickly. I also bought a tube of black roofing sealant that I can use to hold down the edges of the shingles that overlap the flashing.

High temperature is not a major concern (I think) since the double-walled 4" chimney pipe is really just acting like a non-combustable "tunnel" for the 2" exhaust tubing that will go up the middle of the stack. I plan to leave a ~1" air gap around most of the exhaust pipe, but might stuff a wad of fiberglass insulation in near the top of the chimney to cut down on possible rattles and to seal off the opening.

I was able to scrape and wash off the DAP caulk with hot water fairly easily tonight, though it wasn't fun in cold temps with the wind howling. It had started to skin over in some areas, but was still wet in others. It had left some milky drips down on the generator's muffler below, but those wiped up pretty easily.

Thanks for all the input guys. Live and learn!
The Hi-Temp wasnt a concern for me either, I just found that it was really high quality caulk..
 
   / Caulking Help! #17  
Never use painting caulk to attempt to seal flashing.

My favorite brand in Henry, which is sold at Home Depot. It costs twice the amount of good quality caulking, and it's worth the price. There are a few other good brands that are clear, but if you want the very best, it's grey in color and pure misery to work with. It sticks to everything!!!! Once you get it on yourself, good luck getting clean. LOL

Eddie
 
   / Caulking Help! #18  
Roofing mastic and flashing caulk are about the only times I will put on disposable gloves.

It makes it so easy to manipulate without the mess and then dispose into to bag with no mess.
 
   / Caulking Help! #19  
I have an old friend that likes to say (about getting roofing tar etc. smeared on himself even when being judicious)..."that he can just walk by it in a store and he will have it all over him"...
 
   / Caulking Help! #20  
I seal my roof jacks and storm collars with roofing cement, bull, roofing tar, what ever name you wish to call it or, high temp. silicone
 

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