CC2544 OIL Service #@*%!!

   / CC2544 OIL Service #@*%!! #11  
1olddawg,

Not sure of the model you have but i would be worried if the machine was new and the engine oil and filter wasnt changed before 100 Hrs and if its not in the service book suggesting such. I have to look at the suggestions again but full fluid change was mentioned either at the 100 or 150 hr interval....this is for a 3204 series machine (most likelty the same for the 3000 series). it might be the same for the 2500 series as well since the trannys are the same or similair. If you go towards the trouble of draining oil, I would consider first replacing it before ever reusing it. But thats a personal choice and a difference of opinion /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Ducati
 
   / CC2544 OIL Service #@*%!! #12  
This info is for the 2544. Don't know anything about the 3000 series. Actually, page 28 in the operator manual states "If the transmission oil is to be re-used, cover the container holding the drained oil to prevent contamination."
The filter changes are necessary to get rid of metal wear materials which is naturally occurent with meshing gears. This is a low speed application, unlike an automobile. The real object here is to protect the pump and prevent any plugging of the ports, etc. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
   / CC2544 OIL Service #@*%!! #13  
It is my understanding that the transaxel fluid is full synthetic, not a blend (according to my dealer). Considering that this is a low speed operation, those hydros get wicked hot, at least the smaller ones do. My Cub 2180 with aluminum casing even after a full day of cutting and carting, rarely gets more than warm to the touch. Another thought is moisture and break-in. Personally I don't think you'll find a lot of metal fragments in the filter after 10 hours. My dealer has seen 2000's with over 300 hours on them before the first filter change and they worked as well as when they were new. I decided to let it go, figured they must know something. As far as the engine, I'm switching to full synthetic at my next oil change. Its time.
 
   / CC2544 OIL Service #@*%!! #14  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( It is my understanding that the transaxel fluid is full synthetic, not a blend (according to my dealer).... )</font>

It says "synthetic blend" right on the bottles of the CC drive system plus. Of course who knows what is really in there /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif. No offese to dealerships, but they usually dont know squat about oil. From what I understand a synthetic 'blend' typically contains 10% syth. The rest is good old oil from the ground. The CC transaxles do hold a lot of oil, so no doubt the oil can hold up for many hours. I definately would not leave a spin-on oil filter in service for more than a year or two of even normal residential service. The filtering media in them can become weak & come apart /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif.
G/luck
Joel
 
   / CC2544 OIL Service #@*%!!
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Well; Or
Ordered a 8 pack (min they would ship) for 7.49 a quart
But I'll have no warranty issues, and thats paramount.
I'll post how the change went after I get it, and get'r done!

Todd
 
   / CC2544 OIL Service #@*%!! #16  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( ...Ordered a 8 pack (min they would ship) ... )</font>

That will cover ya. About an even gallon came out just by removing the filter on mine & the drain plug is way below the filter mount. For some reason mine was way past the full line on the trans dipstick when I took delivery, so others may not loose that much. What would really help on just a filter change is if you could stick a rubber plug into or a cap over the threaded filter nipple to keep the oil from pouring out. This would atleast give you two hands to wipe down the area before you thread the new filter on. Otherwise you have to do it quick and dirty /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif!
G/luck
Joel
 
   / CC2544 OIL Service #@*%!! #17  
Here's one suggestion for changing the transmission filter on the 2500 series and the 3000 series . . . once the deck is off, either park on a steep up-grade or jack up the front end (please support the weight with jack stands, never trust a jack alone or get under a heavy piece of equipment without properly supporting the weight!) so that when you spin off the old filter, less oil will drain out. Of course, you still have to be fairly quick about having the new filter ready (use your finger to wet the seal with oil ahead of time) to spin back on but by following these steps, you can minimize the loss of that expensive tranny fluid.

I usually use a little less than a quart to refill the tranny and that includes the oil that was in the filter as well as what drains out while swapping filters!

Nittany
 

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