CCM Hydraulic Top Link w/ Pics!

[3RRL]

Can you post a link where to get those orifices?

 

[canoetrpr]

Ah! Never knew about this. I used 1/4" hoses to limit fluid flow and I've found that to be good enough to feather.

 

[rayh76]

You can see a picture of them in my second post, first picture above the painted top link. Jinman said something that made me think you only need one. I am not sure if one is needed or two?? I was thinking of taking these back and maybe getting the 3/8" threaded so I could put right near the hydraulic cyclinder so that the hydraulic hoses wouldn't erode from the "squirt" through the orifice. Not sure that it matters and maybe I am confused like normal.

Here is the link of the 1/2" I got from TSC. For quick reference, the package at the store is labeled "#35".

Tractor Supply Company - 1⁄2 in. M x 1⁄2 in. F, Steel Hydraulic Adapter, F Swivel, Restricted Orifice

I used the Top link last night, and it seems like I might not need the orifices. Not 100% sure yet.

 

[3RRL]

Thanks Ray.
I'm considering them for my wife's bucket grapple. It is pretty fast.

 

[jinman]

Ray, I put the orifices in all my positioning type hydraulic systems. I would suggest just putting one in and seeing what, if any, difference it makes. You never know for sure until you have something to compare the speed and control with. I don't know what you paid for them, but mine were $4.95 from my New Holland dealer.

I am pretty sure that if the orifice was in a motor circuit or controlling constant flow, there would be a chance of the oil jet cutting the inside of the hose. But I don't think you will ever see damage in a positioning circuit. I love the control I have in my grapple circuit.

 

[tommu56]

Rob
You can get a part that goes between vickers soleonid and base that is adjustable.

tommu

 

[rayh76]

From TSC, the orifice was only $4.49. Very cheap part. I have hooked up to my bush hog and finish mower now with the hydraulic top link without the orifice. Jinman I think you are right, with the quick hitch I might not need the orifice. I did have to adjust the top link a couple of times to get the pin out (floating top link).

Question, when the top link is not extended at all, I push the lever back (slowly) to engage the top link. I hear the tractor change noise levels as the hydraulics kick in but the top link doesn't initially move. It seems like it takes a little bit of time for the hydraulic fluid to pressure up and get to the rear cyclinder. Any thoughts on this? Is it b/c my lever isn't all the way open and this somewhat restricts the flow?

Thanks.

 

[jinman]

Question, when the top link is not extended at all, I push the lever back (slowly) to engage the top link. I hear the tractor change noise levels as the hydraulics kick in but the top link doesn't initially move. It seems like it takes a little bit of time for the hydraulic fluid to pressure up and get to the rear cyclinder. Any thoughts on this? Is it b/c my lever isn't all the way open and this somewhat restricts the flow?

Thanks.

I think your remote valve is designed to partially cut off flow before the operating port opens. In an open-center system, there is very low pressure when all control spools are centered. You have to have pressure to do work, so the valves partially close off the open-center passage before opening the operating port. That way when the port opens and you have back pressure, the load won't drop before going in the direction you want. Some valves like FEL double-spool valves have a checkvalve that takes around 600 psi to open. That ensures the load doesn't drop before the open-center system has enough pressure developed to hold the load in its current position.

 

[rayh76]

Thanks Jinman. As always I appreciate your response.

Ray

 

[sandman2234]

3RRL,
I would think that a piece of stainless or other non rusting metal, threaded to go between a joint somewhere in the system circuit your trying to restrict would be be an easy feat for you. Just drill it with a drill bit half of what you think would be right, and work your way up to find the drill size that works best. Something that conducts heat away from it would be great, as I am sure restricting the fluid flow will create heat. Might also want to ramp the in and out sides of the hole with a center drill, to reduce the chance of the pressure on the face of the part allowing it to punch out the outer threads.
David from jax