CCM T-N-T, Finally

[PAB_OH]

Woo-Hooo
Finally! Got the rod, cut it down, and slapped it together. Works great.

I did run into a slight issue though. When I cut the old clevis off the rod end and welded the new on then drilled the hole for the clevis pin the drill must have walked. I don't have a drill press so I was using my Milwaukee Hole Shooter. At any rate, the cylinder fully retracted was ever so slightly longer than the fixed link on the other side and when my 7' back blade was hung off the rear the right side was significantly lower than the left. I ended up taking the fixed link off and putting the adjustable link on that side. I adjusted out to the long side and now I'm able to angle both ways a fair bit.

I'll post pics tomorrow of the final install. My hydraulic hoses are a little long and the clevis needs painted but it looks pretty good in my opinion. Even better it works really well.

 

[Ken45101]

What's the advantage of the TNT over buying stock cylinders at TSC and doing it yourself? I was looking at the TSC cylinders the other day and the prices seem to be in the $100-$150 range.

Ken

 

[PAB_OH]

For me it was the check valves. Some will argue that they aren't needed. I feel they are. Difference of opinion really.

Were you looking at tie rod cylinders? Again, you're going to hear differing opinions on that. My sole argument with regards to the type of cylinders used is look at construction equipment. I can't think of a single application where tie rod cylinders are used on that type of euipment. Ten again I don't know every piece of equipment manufactured by every OEM either.

I think if you get welded cylinders for a reasonable price and you don't want/need the check valves you should be able to do it yourself for less. There are a few issues to take into consideration when spec'ing out your own cylinders for this use though.

 

[PAB_OH]

Pics as promised....
The manually adjustable link on the left is set so that the arms are level when the hydraulic side link is extended about an inch. I may readjust so that the HSL will be extended two inches at level.

1st shows the blade tilted all the way to the right
2nd shows the HSL fully retracted
3rd shows each cylinder at full extension

I will probably have shorter hoses made up for the side link but the top link hoses are actually pretty decent.

 

[jinman]

Pics as promised....
The manually adjustable link on the left is set so that the arms are level when the hydraulic side link is extended about an inch. I may readjust so that the HSL will be extended two inches at level.

Phil, nice job! You can put that hand-crank adjustable link down a bit more to equalize the tilt on both sides as you stated. In use, I think you will find you will not need those severe positions all that much. With my boxblade, I find a slight tilt works best to cut a grade in small increments and keep the box from allowing a lot of material to escape out the raised blade on one side. With a straight blade at 7' in length, you will put a lot of twisting on the A-frame of the 3PH if you are not careful. Trying to tilt too much and move too much material is something everyone does, me for sure. Even cutting a ditch, I find slight tilt and many passes produces the best results. With each successive pass, the tractor tire drops by the amount of the grade, so I find putting in a slight tilt and leaving it set for repeated passes is the best.

I know you will love your setup now. It's absolutely lovely to stay in the seat and do top and tilt adjustments with a lever.

 

[jas67]

I just bit the bullet and ordered a T-N-T kit for you B7100.

Mark was very helpful and informative.

I can't wait!

I have my remotes installed, and all ready to go.

 

[PAB_OH]

Thanks Jim. I'm really happy with it so far. I should be able to put it to the test this weekend.

Good luck jas67. I'm sure when you get it you'll be really happy.