Oil & Fuel Century Rear End Oil

[EddieWalker]

Jenkins,

I'm not knowledgeable on these things, so it could very well be me. I downloaded the trial version of WinRar, but it still says the file is corrupted. I don't even know what a corupted file is. LOL

I appreciate the effort you've put in on this. Thank you.

Eddie

 

[MicroPilot]

It's Hydraulic Fluid. JDM J20C or equivalent. Full capacity is 37 quarts. The orange tube is the filler tube. If you look there is a hose fitting just behind and above this. When you fill the oil loosen this hose. This will allow the case a spot to vent and make filling a LOT easier. I just looked at your pic and noticed that you have the extra valves installed. I'm not sure how this will affect my suggestion of loosening the hose mentioned above. Here is a pic of my tractors rear end. You can see the hose in this picture.

You may want to check the tightness of the hydraulic filter. I recently discovered mine was loose and the source of my hydro fluid loss. It is located on the left side of the tractor just in front of the rear axle next to the frame. Make sure this is tight. DO NOT REMOVE IT or ALL the fluid in the rear end will be on your driveway!

While you are at it you should probably check the oil in the front drive axle. There are large 23mm (I think) bolts on the top of the steering Knuckles. On my 3035 they are painted yellow. These are the oil fill tubes for the front drive axle and have dip sticks attached to them. The front drive axle uses 7.4 quarts of the same hydraulic fluid. The front drive axles are connected and use share the same resevior of oil.

 

[EddieWalker]

Micropilot,

Thank you, that' helps allot. I'm going to check the front axle too. I did it at 100 hours, but I'm at 400 hours now and need to do it again.

Eddie

 

[Reg]

Eddie,
I have the manual as a .pdf fie - which MOST computers have been able to read OK since way long ago.
It is a little over 3 1/2 megabytes, so I could send it as an e-mail attachment if you like. WARNING; it is ugly, basically they just scanned the printed manual and made images of the paper pages.

I have done SOME work on converting it to text, but putting the text and pictures back together is taking a lot more time and effort than I have right now.

Shoot me a PM if you want it as a .pdf
& BTW, you really SHOULD have changed that hydraulic oil a while ago (-:

 

[EddieWalker]

Reg,

Thank you for the offer and the PM. I replied to your PM and would sure appreciate a copy of the manual.

Eddie

 

[Reg]

A couple of thoughts on changing that oil.
1) There is a LOT of it, so you'll need abut a 10 gallon pan.
2) I didn't have one and didn't want to spend the sort of money that an auto parts store wants for BIG truck and bus tools.
3) I do have a left over plastic wheel barrow tub, the frame rotted/broke, so I cleaned it out, put duct tape patches over the bolt holes and used that.
I think it is 6 or 7 cu ft, but it squeezes under the tractor OK and is big enough to reach under the drain bolt and filter at the same time.
4) A couple of days later I saw CHEEEEEEP mortar tubs in Home Despot; lower, with no bolt holes to tape up, but only 7 gallons - which might work for the small frame tractors IF you can keep it dead level on a concrete floor. I think there is a bigger one, these were labeled small, suggesting that there is a larger one, but I didn't find anything bigger.

So, who uses what for a drain pan ?

Filling;
I used a transmission oil funnel, but a 5 gallon tub gets kinda heavy when you pour from it slow enough to avoid burping up and overflowing. The first 5 gallons goes in pretty quick, maybe the next 2, but after that it takes some settling or there is an overflow mess.

 

[MicroPilot]

A couple of thoughts on changing that oil.
1) There is a LOT of it, so you'll need abut a 10 gallon pan.
2) I didn't have one and didn't want to spend the sort of money that an auto parts store wants for BIG truck and bus tools.
3) I do have a left over plastic wheel barrow tub, the frame rotted/broke, so I cleaned it out, put duct tape patches over the bolt holes and used that.
I think it is 6 or 7 cu ft, but it squeezes under the tractor OK and is big enough to reach under the drain bolt and filter at the same time.
4) A couple of days later I saw CHEEEEEEP mortar tubs in Home Despot; lower, with no bolt holes to tape up, but only 7 gallons - which might work for the small frame tractors IF you can keep it dead level on a concrete floor. I think there is a bigger one, these were labeled small, suggesting that there is a larger one, but I didn't find anything bigger.

So, who uses what for a drain pan ?

Filling;
I used a transmission oil funnel, but a 5 gallon tub gets kinda heavy when you pour from it slow enough to avoid burping up and overflowing. The first 5 gallons goes in pretty quick, maybe the next 2, but after that it takes some settling or there is an overflow mess.

I usually just use whatever bucket is available that fits under the tractor, however this last time I bought a cheap oil drain pan with a spout from Wal-Mart. You just have to empty it a couple of times, no big deal really.

When you pour the oil from the 5 gal. pail, pour from the TOP of the bucket, not the bottom. this makes it the oil pour out much smoother. Also if you loosen the return line at the top right side of the crank case, it allows venting and keeps the air from bubbling out the fill tube.

The first time I changed the oil I had the forthought to do a little planning, and had been saving 2 -liter pop bottles for a while to put the used oil in. After that I've made sure to save the empty 5 gallon pails for the next oil change for used oil.