Ceramic tile backboard

[PeteV]

Hello everyone,
Planning on installing a tile floor in our new kitchen, have a question on the cement backerboard. I was planning on using a 1/2 inch on the floor. Found out there are several types of backerboard, several types of cementboard and something called hardibacker (at Home depot) any specific brand better then another?found the cementboard rather 'flimsy' compared to the hardibacker board, which was a lot harder and stiffer. They had some light weight wonderboard that practicly crumbled in your hands. Just wondering if there are any advantages or dis advantages to either one?It just seems that the hardibacker board would be better resistent to movement and cracking. Looks like all brands require thinset between floor and boards and screws every 8 inch. Will be installing this on a 3/4 inch T+G osb floor, floorjoist are I-joist
Thanks in advance for all the help

Pete

 

[surfran]

I'm not an expert, but the guy that did my tile in my bathroom preferred the Hardibacker board to the Durock as he said it was easier to work with and just as durable. I only have 1/2" T&G plywood below mine, so I went with either 1/2 or 5/8 backer can't remember exactly. Anyhow, 1 year later no problems at all.

I would say that with the 3/4 and 1/2" you should be fine.

Good luck,

 

[PeteV]

Thanks Surfran, I looked at the warranties, etc. and all were guarantied for 30 years or better, so like you said I don't think one is less quality then the other, it may just be personel preference I was just wondering what the differences between the two kind were It just seems that the wonderboard was awfull brittle.

Any advice , as always is appreciated
Pete

 

[spencer200]

I Used 1/2" backboard in my shower stall when I tiled it 5 years ago and it has held up fine with no problems at all.

 

[aloha]

Your Home Depot should have free literature with instructions and information on applications. One consideration is floor joist spacing. I have not seen any that will admit to being serviceable with over 16" spacing.

 

[PeteV]

Aloha, thanks for the reply, I did read all the installation instructions on both kinds and they appear te be more or less the same. The floor joist are on 16'' centers, and when I build the floor , I knew I was going to put tile down so the I joist were spec'ed out for a higher then standard load, they are stronger then code , I am not too worried about floor flex and bending. Just wondering if one of the two kind of board was any better then the other.
Thanks
Pete

 

[PeteV]

Thanks Spencer, I' am leaning toward the HardiBacker board, just want to know if there are any drawbacks.
Thanks
Pete

 

[DocBezdek]

The standard thickness for concrete backer is 1/2". 5/16" is commonly used for laminating over floor decking. The backer does not add significant stiffness to the floor deck (as compared to that of the deck itself), but rather provides a suitable bonding surface for the tile. If the deck is not stiff enough to prevent flexing, tile cracking can occur whatever the thickness of the backer. The various thickness of backer are useful when trying to match a tile floor height to a surrounding floor or stair system.
The tile/backer industry standards now recommend that the floor deck be at least 5/8" thick. I have successfully installed backer / tile systems over 1/2" exterior plywood (common decking in older homes), but have added blocking beneath the floor, between the joists, to add stiffness. I have also had a tile system crack when installed over 1/2" OSB. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif It was beneath a cast iron wood stove, and the builder assured me that the floor decking was stiff enough to install 12" tile. That installation used 5/16" backer, and the rest of the job has held up well, even in areas of high traffic.
In any event, take extra care to ensure the subfloor is solid.
Steve

 

[JDgreen227]

DocBezdek,

Great point there about using blocking to ensure the subfloor and joists do not flex. Few if any people use blocking with the TIJ system of floor framing, especially if they used oversized ones. Using 3/4 OSB decking and 1/2 inch concrete backer should work well for the majority of tile flooring, and your suggestion for using blocking is a good one. I have done a lot of floor framing and tile installation and agree, take extra care to insure a solid subfloor.

 

[dmccarty]

Pete,

I used 1/2 inch Hardibacker to do my bath surround. Its good
stuff. I would have used Durock since it seems to have a good
rep amoung the pros.

Get a mask when cutting the stuff. I never could get it scored
to snap it like some say. I sawed it with a cordless circular
saw. Its messy. Do it outside and wear a good mask.

Hardi makes their own brand of screws for their product. Use
their screws. They work better than the other brands. If you
get Durock. Use the Durock screws. I think each company
has optimized their screws to work with thier products. I had
to use Durock screws in Hardibacker and they would not drive
flush as easy as the Hardi ones.

I had to put in two layers of Hardibacker due to how the walls
where built 30 years ago so I have one inch of overlapping
Hardibacker. The wall where built with 24" OC so I added
studs to get to at least 12-16" OC. The wall are MUCH
stronger now. Like concrete.

Follow Hardi's instructions and you will do fine.

On the mastic/thinset read Hardi's instructions and get products
that meet their spec. Not all do meet the spec. I had one
competing sales representative tell me that their product
was as good as Brand X. I ask him to show me where on the
label it said it met ANSI 108.xxx or whatever the ANSI number
that was specified. He could not.

Just read the instructions, might have to go online to get them
and get the right mastic and thinset.

For the tile you might want to rent a wet saw. I rented one from
HD and I think it was $40 for two days. Expensive but worth it.
In hindsight they had a smaller wet saw for sale that was about
$80. For the tile I was using I think the small saw would have
worked. I have one more bathroom to repair and I would have
saved money if I had bought the saw....

Good Luck,
Dan McCarty