CH20 Ignition switch problem ?

[39President]

My CK 20 HST has 360 hours on it. Noticed after 100 or so hours, when I turned the key from glo plug to start, there was a slight pause before the starter would engage. The colder the weather, the longer the pause between the key turned to "start" and the starter engaging. Today the pause was the longest yet. All connections are clean and tight. After the first start-up, the pause is not there. Only comes back when the tractor has not been used for a week or more. Any thoughts?

 

[CityTractor]

Do you hear the solenoid click before the starter spins?

 

[39President]

Thats the pause. Turn the key to start position, long pause then the solenoid click and starter spins fine, engine fires right up.

 

[VictorW]

I'd check all the battery cable connections first. At battery, ground to frame, and positive to starter. I've seen where these connections have become corroded and the power draw when starting causes a very slight ark that actually allows for a better connection. If all good, then the switch could be the problem. Many posts here about the switches. Members have shot in WD-40, fluid film, and other lubicants. The factory grease seems to attract dirt, gets hard, and then the switch connections are lost or intermittent.

 

[ritcheyvs]

If I'm reading this correctly, there is a pause between the time the switch is turned to "on" and the time the stop solenoid makes its distinctive clack sound. Furthermore, the delay is longer when cold, there is no delay starting a warm engine, and the engine always cranks.

If this is correct, I suspect the ignition switch grease is thick and/or dirty, causing a poor connection (in the switch). Recommend the easy thing first: squirt some WD40 or Fluid Film (which is better) in the keyhole. If this fixes the problem you'll know it's the switch. You may need to rebuild or replace it eventually, or maybe the quick fix will last for years.

 

[39President]

I was leaning towards the ing. switch, sprayed some electronic switch cleaner in there, no effect, I'll try the WD40. Having a snow storm right now , eastern New York. Thanks for the info/help.

 

[Jakesdad]

You can also remove the switch, take it apart, and clean up all the contact points. It's not difficult. Mine is a ck30 so I assume they are similar.

 

[PILOON]

Seems to be a frequent switch problem. The lubricant is dry and caked up.
The inner contacts are spring loaded for good contact but also lubed to prevent wear.
WD40 and a good agitation (on/off/on/off) will cure that in most cases.
I'd not open the switch but do spray on a yearly basis.

I once met the WD factory rep and he assured me that WD40 is non corrosive and OK to use on all electronic components. We consequently used it on lots of expensive aircraft electronics.

 

[Raincoast]

From what I've been reading, this seems to be a constantly recurring problem.
After I left my aviation maintenance career, I took on summer contract work for a busy yacht charter company. Working on sail & power boats that spent their entire lives in a harsh marine environment. In 9 years, I think I replaced one "ignition" switch.
Many marine diesel switches function in the same way these problematic Kioti switches do & it'd be a simple job to change them out. For about $30.00, it seems like we could save a lot of unnecessary grief.
It would be better if the manufacturer would step up & make a better switch, but it doesn't look like they are that interested.
My new DS4510 arrives on Saturday. (three more sleeps!) One of the first things I'm gonna do is look into replacing that switch!
I hope someone will chime in, if this issue has been addressed with the newer tractors. Or if anyone has tried this already. (Someone MUST have)
P.S. I posted previously that the model I bought was a DK45SE. Wrong... It seems I wrote down the wrong model number in my notes.
The DS has fewer bells & whistles, but as a true bush mechanic, I'm OK with that!
I'll formally join the "club" when I get the tractor home on Saturday.
Cheers. Dan

 

[Gittyup]

The ignition switch has been a problem dating back at least to 2006 (when I got mine). After a few months my switch started acting up. I cleaned it with brake cleaner. Let it dry and then added some fluid film, both in the hole and on the key (love that stuff). It's been working ever since. However, it does have a dead spot. If I turn the key too far it won't engage. I have to turn it just far enough. I've done it so much that now it is second nature. I would have thought by now that Kioti would've fixed this.

 

[DK35vince]

From what I've been reading, this seems to be a constantly recurring problem.
After I left my aviation maintenance career, I took on summer contract work for a busy yacht charter company. Working on sail & power boats that spent their entire lives in a harsh marine environment. In 9 years, I think I replaced one "ignition" switch.
Many marine diesel switches function in the same way these problematic Kioti switches do & it'd be a simple job to change them out. For about $30.00, it seems like we could save a lot of unnecessary grief.
It would be better if the manufacturer would step up & make a better switch, but it doesn't look like they are that interested.
My new DS4510 arrives on Saturday. (three more sleeps!) One of the first things I'm gonna do is look into replacing that switch!
I hope someone will chime in, if this issue has been addressed with the newer tractors. Or if anyone has tried this already. (Someone MUST have)
P.S. I posted previously that the model I bought was a DK45SE. Wrong... It seems I wrote down the wrong model number in my notes.
The DS has fewer bells & whistles, but as a true bush mechanic, I'm OK with that!
I'll formally join the "club" when I get the tractor home on Saturday.
Cheers. Dan

Dan,
I'm not sure what years/models had the problem switch's.
But my 13 year old DK 35 has never had any ignition switch issues.

 

[39President]

For the record, my CK20 HST is a 2006, 360 hours. I sprayed WD40 in the switch this morning, turned it on & off a few times without trying to start it, then turned ignition switch to start. NO dead spot, fired right up. Guess I'll spray the switch routinely. Anybody know of a switch I can swap the factory one for or am I stuck buying a Kioiti factory switch? Thanks for all to help and advice!

 

[ritcheyvs]

Hey 39. ATTABOY!. The boat switch idea has merit; marine-rated products are designed for really harsh environments. But it may not be so easy or worth the trouble. First, the new switch would need the same electrical connections inside and there is more than one version in our tractors. Second, you'd need to cannibalize the wires/connectors from the old switch and adapt the hole to fit the new one. Finally, your re-lubed switch will probably work fine for many years, now, making the trouble and cost of a new switch questionable.

My switch has been working great for 3-4 years since I cleaned and re-lubed it and I think others have similar success.

By the way, WD40 is not a good lubricant despite what many people think. But it is a good cleaning agent and it also leaves a film that reduces subsequent corrosion and does not seem to disrupt"wiping" switch contacts.

 

[Raincoast]

Good points Rich. The wiring & fitting would be simple for me, but maybe not for everyone. Before I get too excited, I'll give the switch a chance to behave... If it gives me much trouble, it's outa there!
Has anyone tried a good dielectric grease like this?...
Amazon.com: Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube: Automotive
It's only a few bucks & works great. Never dries up & is completely waterproof. I haven't used the Permatex stuff, but its probably a good product.
After years working on aircraft, preventive maintenance is a habit. If there's a chance of preventing a breakdown I'd rather do that than end up fixing the switch in the pouring rain.
Thanks for your thoughts & the good info.
Dan

 

[Raincoast]

Good points Rich. The wiring & fitting would be simple for me, but maybe not for everyone. Before I get too excited, I'll give the switch a chance to behave... If it gives me much trouble, it's outa there!
Has anyone tried a good dielectric grease like this?...
Amazon.com: Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube: Automotive
It's only a few bucks & works great. Never dries up & is completely waterproof. I haven't used the Permatex stuff, but its probably a good product.
After years working on aircraft, preventive maintenance is a habit. If there's a chance of preventing a breakdown I'd rather do that than end up fixing the switch in the pouring rain.
Thanks for your thoughts & the good info.
Dan

 

[ritcheyvs]

... Has anyone tried a good dielectric grease like this?...
Amazon.com: Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube: Automotive ...

That's the stuff I used when I reassembled my switch. Just happened to have it in the tool box. I didn't see much corrosion in my switch, just lots of hard and dirty grease.

 

[Raincoast]

Sorry for the sorta double post. Thought the first one got lost.
I see a new tube of dielectric grease in my future!

 

[rider7767]

The switches are a weak link. I had to replace mine under warranty at about 75 hours. The new one is starting to do the same thing (a dead spot), so I sprayed lube into the key hole. That helps for a while. My tractor stays under a carport and is only in the rain when I have been caught out.

 

[ritcheyvs]

Rider, The electrical part of the switch is dirt simple. If you still have the old switch, maybe you should disassemble and clean/lube it. Here is a writeup with a couple photos:

ignition_switch

 

[rider7767]

Rider, The electrical part of the switch is dirt simple. If you still have the old switch, maybe you should disassemble and clean/lube it. Here is a writeup with a couple photos:

ignition_switch

Thank you for the info. I did keep the switch and have already cleaned it; however, it is under warranty. My dealer just sends me the parts and I put them on. I have only had two things break in two years.