GaryE
Platinum Member
RonL,
Most of those old timers have forgotten more than most of us will ever know!
Gary
Most of those old timers have forgotten more than most of us will ever know!
Gary
Chain Hooks
- Thread starter RonL
- Start date
- Views: 3871
GaryE
Platinum Member
Dargo,
Great looking welds. At 60K / Square inch they are not going anywhere!!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Gary
Great looking welds. At 60K / Square inch they are not going anywhere!!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Gary
valleydweller1
Silver Member
I look at it like this:
My bucket is rated to lift 500 lb. Will this weld withstand a 500 lb lift? What if your bucket is rated at 1000 lb lift? Will that weld hold up to a 1000 lb lift? What if you split the load between two hooks? Will they each hold up to 500 lb?
My bucket is rated to lift 500 lb. Will this weld withstand a 500 lb lift? What if your bucket is rated at 1000 lb lift? Will that weld hold up to a 1000 lb lift? What if you split the load between two hooks? Will they each hold up to 500 lb?
OP
RonL
Banned
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- Worcester, Massachusetts
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- Caterpillar 416C IT, Caterpillar D3G, previously owned a Ford 1910
My bucket is rated to lift something like 6000 pounds. The breakout force is around 9000. The slip hook I'm going to weld in the center of the bucket is rated at five tons. I want to make sure that it holds.
RonL
RonL
srs
Veteran Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I used my stick welder to weld some chain hooks on my bucket. )</font>
Dargo, those are some good looking welds! Nice job! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Dargo, those are some good looking welds! Nice job! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
BobG_in_VA
Veteran Member
- Joined
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- Central VA, USA
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- Mahindra 6000 MWFD, 2 1950's Farmalls, 1974 Farmall 140, 1967 Mf 135Delux
I think it did come across as somewhat confrontational...You totally neglected to respond to the tech. side of the post. Pls, as you seem to be so knowledgeable, advise us all what the difference is between a 6013 and 6011 rod. Also pls advise what's "wrong" with a 6011 3/32 rod at 75AMPS, especially on about 1/4" steel. I hope I don't come across as confrontational either, however, on farm equipment, I wouldn't use anything but a 6011 as my equipment gets used. BobG in VA
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Dargo,
Nice looking hooks.
I've been thinking of cutting one from a piece of flat stock I have lying around, but I like your better.
Where did you buy them?
Anybody else know a good source to buy one?
Thanks,
Eddie
Nice looking hooks.
I've been thinking of cutting one from a piece of flat stock I have lying around, but I like your better.
Where did you buy them?
Anybody else know a good source to buy one?
Thanks,
Eddie
GaryE
Platinum Member
<font color="blue">Pls, as you seem to be so knowledgeable, advise us all what the difference is between a 6013 and 6011 rod. </font>
BobG,
There is nothing “wrong” with a 6011. All rods have their place. Up here 6011’s are sometimes called “Farmer Rods” because they are great for field repair. They can burn through, rust. paint, grease and just about anything else that can get in it’s way. This is mainly due to the coating of cellulose sodium. Designated by the last digit. But this comes at a price, a 6011 tends to spit and spatter more than a 6013 (which uses titania sodium as a coating). The spitting can cause voids in the welds, slag build up and a rougher weld.
RonL was looking to make a root pass and then finish with a 7018. You do not want your root pass filled with voids. And you want it as clean as you can get it (without grinding). He also has not been welding for many years. The fact is, given a choice between the two rods an inexperienced welder will get a better weld with a 6013 almost every time.
I am sorry if you took my response personally, it was not meant to be. I just disagreed with your technique. I will try to refrain from posting in anymore welding threads, I seem to draw fire when I do! /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Gary
BobG,
There is nothing “wrong” with a 6011. All rods have their place. Up here 6011’s are sometimes called “Farmer Rods” because they are great for field repair. They can burn through, rust. paint, grease and just about anything else that can get in it’s way. This is mainly due to the coating of cellulose sodium. Designated by the last digit. But this comes at a price, a 6011 tends to spit and spatter more than a 6013 (which uses titania sodium as a coating). The spitting can cause voids in the welds, slag build up and a rougher weld.
RonL was looking to make a root pass and then finish with a 7018. You do not want your root pass filled with voids. And you want it as clean as you can get it (without grinding). He also has not been welding for many years. The fact is, given a choice between the two rods an inexperienced welder will get a better weld with a 6013 almost every time.
I am sorry if you took my response personally, it was not meant to be. I just disagreed with your technique. I will try to refrain from posting in anymore welding threads, I seem to draw fire when I do! /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Gary
GaryE
Platinum Member
<font color="blue"> Anybody else know a good source to buy one? </font>
Eddie,
Almost any tractor dealer should have them. I know the Bobcat dealer here carries a ton of them. They only cost a couple of bucks a peice.
Gary
Eddie,
Almost any tractor dealer should have them. I know the Bobcat dealer here carries a ton of them. They only cost a couple of bucks a peice.
Gary
Dargo
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I don't recall where I bought the hooks, but they are called "weld on" grab hooks. They are flat, but beveled, on the bottom and designed to be welded on.
My dad has been a professional welder for over 45 years. He was definitely not the best with patience for teaching his son to weld, but he certainly knows what he is doing. I've been a 'weekend' welder for about 25 years now and an finally starting to do things halfway right according to my dad. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif At one point I had all the different rods memorized and their tensile strength as well as their differences. There definitely is a reason to have all the assorted rods. They all have their place. However, the most basic thing I always end up going by is to simply make sure that my weld is at least as strong as the base material I'm welding. In other words, it makes no sense to have a weld that will take 125,000 psi to break when the base material will break at 20,000 psi. Using that for a guide, I almost always just grab 6013 rods.
I don't know if I phrased that right, but hopefully it makes sense. I've gotten lazy lately and almost always use my MIG welder. If I'm dealing with clean material to begin with, it is very easy to produce nice looking high quality welds just by using the settings chart on the machine. It's only when welding stuff that is nasty or outside that I break out the old (not really old, I bought a nice Hobart 2 years ago) buzz box. I can put my generator and Hobart in the back of my RTV and get to most places for an on the job fix if need be. But, I'd prefer to be lazy and just lay out the nice caulk looking welds with the MillerMatic 251 I have. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Lately I've been practicing with my TIG welding on aluminum. As I've mentioned before, my dad can weld an aluminum soda pop can back together. That's tough to do! I always just tell him that there isn't much of a call for welding broken soda cans. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
My dad has been a professional welder for over 45 years. He was definitely not the best with patience for teaching his son to weld, but he certainly knows what he is doing. I've been a 'weekend' welder for about 25 years now and an finally starting to do things halfway right according to my dad. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif At one point I had all the different rods memorized and their tensile strength as well as their differences. There definitely is a reason to have all the assorted rods. They all have their place. However, the most basic thing I always end up going by is to simply make sure that my weld is at least as strong as the base material I'm welding. In other words, it makes no sense to have a weld that will take 125,000 psi to break when the base material will break at 20,000 psi. Using that for a guide, I almost always just grab 6013 rods.
I don't know if I phrased that right, but hopefully it makes sense. I've gotten lazy lately and almost always use my MIG welder. If I'm dealing with clean material to begin with, it is very easy to produce nice looking high quality welds just by using the settings chart on the machine. It's only when welding stuff that is nasty or outside that I break out the old (not really old, I bought a nice Hobart 2 years ago) buzz box. I can put my generator and Hobart in the back of my RTV and get to most places for an on the job fix if need be. But, I'd prefer to be lazy and just lay out the nice caulk looking welds with the MillerMatic 251 I have. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Lately I've been practicing with my TIG welding on aluminum. As I've mentioned before, my dad can weld an aluminum soda pop can back together. That's tough to do! I always just tell him that there isn't much of a call for welding broken soda cans. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
