Chain Saw Advice

[SnowRidge]

I have seen the results of someone dropping a douglas fir smack down the middle of a brand new pickup. I don't recommend testing your ROPS/FOPS that way. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[SkagitStan]

I've got a ~15 year old Stihl 024 w/18" bar, and just recently also got a Stihl MS260 w/20" bar. The old guy has seen a lot of use and is getting kinda cranky.

Our new property still needs a LOT of alder clearing, and I just don't think the 024 was up to it anymore. But it sure was a good saw up until a year or so ago.

I'm putting the 024 out to pasture, and will keep it as a backup, or for when I'm being stupid and get the new one's bar jammed in a cut. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

I'm a bit leery about pulling a tree down with the tractor and chain.

If you're not real sure where the tree is going to drop, or that it'll follow your pull, and that it won't knock down something else in your path that method sounds scary to me. I can see the tractor getting one heck of a yank. And you're pretty much limiting any fast excape routes you might have.

If the tree is big enough to do damage, and you don't know where it's going to go, and also have a few escape routes planned, better call in the pros.

 

[EddieWalker]

Actually it's really easy with the backhoe.

Some trees have a natural lean to them and if that's the case and it's leaning where I want it, then that's what I'll do.

Decide where you want it to fall.

Back up to the tree 90 degrees of that point. Dig a trench on either side of the tree as clost to the trunk as you can. Sometimes I have to start way out because of one super thick root that I can't get through. Than I work my way in towards the tree. I only need to get under the root ball and depending on the tree, I might underct it some.

Do this on both sides of the tree. The deeper the better, but after you pass the root ball, it's not really that important.

The other tow sides still have roots holding the tree up. It won't go anyplace.

On smaller trees or certain types, I can push the tree over with by hoe stick from the side. This is only works on smaller trees and sweet gums.

Change position to the oposite side you want the tree to fall.

Reach up with your bucket and give it a gentle push. Sometimes I use the bucket curled up and the preasure of opening it will be enough to get it going. If not, try down lower and work your way up.

If its still not going, than dig a shallow trench on either side of the tree. This time you don't need to go as far down, just cut off the roots that are holding the tree up.

Then try pushing it again.

The trees don't just fall over, even with the dirt removed from all four sides, they are still held inplace by the dirt creating a suction on the bottom of the root ball.

I've never come across a tree that I couldn't get out, but the really big ones definetly have a pucker factor to them!!!

The most dangerous ones I've come across are the small saplings. They have a way of twisting around and coming right back at me. I've had them bust my knuckles, swat my arms, face and even come from behind and get me.

Start small and build up your skills. Once you see how much easier it is to get the entire tree and stump up at one time, you'll never go back to cutting them down and digging up the stump on it's own.

Eddie

 

[Youare]

With a 16" bar you can cut down a 40" diameter tree, I would guess that would cover almost all your needs. With that much wood to cut I would look at the "professional" grade of saws, they tend to be a little ligther for the horsepower. A 16" bar will allow a larger saw to cut much faster as there is less chain drag than an 18" or 20" bar.

I would becareful pulling trees over once you have cut part way through, the tre length may excede the chain length or distance you are away from the top of the tree when it contacts the ground or you if you are too close.

The best and safest methods can be found by doing a search on the Internet for "directional felling". This will give you much greater control of the whole felling process and keep you out of hams way.

Go at it until you get tired and then stop and rest. More accidents happen when you get tired.

Randy

 

[SPIKER]

pulling ANY tree over is dangerous more so than simply felling it correctly. lots of info available for that on-line and at sites such as the FORESTRY FOURM and you can probably sell some of the lumber much easier.

I would first off suggest investing in some help that knows what they are doig a forester to come out & look at the site & trees tell you which ones to cut for firewood & which ones to leave for timber. and or have timber cruiser come out & do a select cutting and leave some of the nice ones for wind breaks & to keep the property nice.

nothing I hate more than some dang city slicker comming out into the country buying a nice wooded property then cutting it all down cause the trees were there! ? there are plenty of pasture / tillable land that is already cleared for these dorks to use yet they pay top buck then clear out all the woods & habitat & wild life for a 10 acre lawn!?!?!?


anyhow as for chainsaw lots of good ones going. less expensive stuff that works well are the poulans/craftsman & homlites then move up to the echos & cubs and then to the top 2 already mentioned a bunch.

you choose more $ does = better saw in this case, but how much saw do YOU need? proablay a pro modle in the poulan line is more than adiquite, the top 3 brands are more profesional use. something you probably don't need?
keep good gas in them and make sure to keep a sharp chain on them and a good file for touch ups. every tank ful you should touch up the chain one or two times to keep best edge and least wear on saw. no need for a high buck sharpener in you're case for sure, HF has one in the 49 buck range but a file is probably all you need if done right. chains are 15~20 bucks each. and many outdoorgarden stores will sharpen em right for 2~5 bucks ea.

lotsof good info in the saw companies web sites look for maintenance and tune ups for each brand you may look at buying. this info is redily available too so read up look at close dealer support and all that.


I have 2 poulan homeowner saws one for 5+ yrs which has had heck used out of it runs like a top still starts 2~3 pulls even when COLD & first pull when warm. I keep em clean take care of em and make sure that I sharpen the chain and keep good gas in them always stored FULL and will oil in the res too one leaks a bit (very little) and the full fuel/mix keeps them from drying out. I do use mine once twice every few months and that is about it I have 22 acres 10 of which is wooded with last 2 yrs being bad storm damage and I still have a load to cut as time permits.

mark M

 

[escavader]

STIHL,HUSKY, JONNSRED,DOMAR ,all good choices.The most important is service after the sale.Buy at a local saw shop,pick one that you feel you can handle.One more thought,a longer bar isnt alot more weight,and it saves on your back.As ststed safety equipment.A cant dog is helpful.Keep your little saw,it may get you out if you pinch your new one
ALAN

 

[KubotainNH]

I agree with Eddie, get the Stihl fixed. At the least you can use it for small stuff and get a bigger one for the large tasks. All it probably needs is a new plug, fuel/air filter and carb cleaning. Maybe just a new plug. There's not much to a 2 cycle motor and when the plug fouls it usually needs to be replaced.

 

[RalphVa]

I've a Stihl 009L that's 36 years old with 12" and 14" bars. It still starts reasonably easy. In cold weather, spray ether into it on full choke, pull once (usually fires), then half choke and another shot of ether. Often starts first pull on half choke. Sometimes takes maybe a half dozen, but the 009L is easy to pull, not like some 20" and bigger ones I've borrowed.

You have TO BE SURE to run the tank and carb empty of fuel EVERY TIME you use the 009L (believe it or not as of about 2 years ago, I saw them on the shelf for a tad LESS than what I paid 36 years ago). ONE TIME, I didn't run mine empty and had a whale of a time getting it started the next time. Its only other fault is the oil will run out quicker than the gas; so, I only fill the fule tank no more than 1/2 full. Think the only parts I've ever bought for it are a couple spark plugs and some chains and an extra bar.

Recently had to cut a tree that was too big for my 009L. Borrowed a friend's fairly new Stihl that's about a 20-22". It started really easy, virtually the first pull. My wife picked it up from him in front of Gold's Gym. He showed her how to start it by just drop starting it. I couldn't do that. Had to set it on the ground to pull start it.

Rented a 26" saw (don't remember what the brand was). ALMOST couldn't pull start it. TOO STIFF.

My philosophy is buy the little 12" saw. Rent if you need a bigger one. The little saw is a whole lot lighter for limb and general duty work.

Ralph

 

[Jstpssng]

jeffinsgf, the problems you're having may be related to the age of the saw, not the brand. I've been told that newer carbs are a lot less tolerant of old gas; defined as older than 1 month. I've been buying Huskies for 20+ years, but wouldn't hesitate to spend money on a Stihl instead.

To the original poster; you've gotten plenty of good advice about saws, I won't add to it. However if you would prefer to have someone else do the work you can negotiiate to have the slash chipped, burned, or hauled off, in leiu of payment. As with any timber sale though, get everything in writing; and if it was me, no wood would leave the property until other terms of the contract were met.

 

[KubotainNH]

You need to be careful using ether on a 2 cycle engine, to much will ruin it because there is 0 oil lubricating the parts. Also running it dry can be bad too, when you hear the motor starting to rev because of lack of gas/oil you are running very rich with little oil but lots of heat. Best bet is run a bit of Stabil and empty the tank after it has run a couple minutes. I just wanted to make sure someone didn't start dumping a can of ether in there. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif