Chain saw blade sharpening ?

[Richard]

Have a Stihl 044 saw with 20" bar. When I bought the saw (going out of business sale for ~ $400 /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif ) I bought extra bar and some extra chains.

A new chain on this saw will absolutely make mincemeat out of a piece of wood. I file them sometimes to try to keep/replace the edge. After more use/abuse, I'll take them to shop to be "professionally" sharpened.

Last night while cutting tree down, saw got pinched. No problem, got other bar and "professionally" sharpened chain and the #*^%&%$@# thing cut worse than a butterknife on steel. /w3tcompact/icons/mad.gif/w3tcompact/icons/mad.gif/w3tcompact/icons/mad.gif/w3tcompact/icons/mad.gif/w3tcompact/icons/mad.gif

I've had this rotten experience with TWO shops. (MORE /w3tcompact/icons/mad.gif) Is there any secret to taking a blade out and genuinely having it "sharpened" like new? Maybe a semblence of new? Maybe at least like a steak knife? (I'll even forego the "Ginsu" edge) /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Who sharpens their blades how and where to get GREAT results?

Any recommendations? Should I just pay what ever the $$ are and buy my own sharpener/grinder?? (I'm just that retentive to do that sort of thing...if so, where would you get one?)

Signed,

Dull in Tennessee

 

[Bird]

Richard, I can sympathize with you, but don't really have a solution. About 3 years ago, I had a couple of chain saw chains sharpened by a local dealer, and they were worse than when I took them in. Then I found a little independent shop in the sharpening business and that guy showed me what the first shop did wrong (there are different kinds of chains, sizes, angles, and I don't know what all). Anyway I was glad to find someone really competent, and now he's retired and the shop's closed. You can buy your own equipment, but I suspect you may not be happy with that either unless you get some good instruction in doing the job.

Bird

 

[Richard]

Bird
Thanks for input. I know what you mean regarding various angles/sizes and such. I can't imagine myself (nor anyone) duplicating the poor blade I now have.

Personally speaking, I'm a reader type. I don't really know how long the old board was around, but I've been reading about tractors for maybe 4 years now and until the recent advent of the L-48 STILL wasn't sure what "tractor" I would probably buy. Of course, with the aquisition of Brutus buying a tractor is currently not an issue. Point is, that I have NO qualms on purchasing the equipment and don't care if it takes me 2 years to master or 12 ruined blades to master. After a while, it becomes a matter of principle to me rather than the cost. In the end, I WILL have my blades sharp. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[bpence]

Richard, some years ago I started buying firewood logs by the semi flatbed load and cutting/splitting to feed a wood furnace. Keeping chain saws sharp was a definite challenge.

I invested in my own hand held, electric powered rotary sharpener (looks kind of like a Dremel tool). 15+ years ago it came from Sears and I don't remember how much it cost, but it wasn't a lot. It uses small rotary grinding pegs to sharpen the chain teeth. Different size grinding pegs are available for the different size teeth out there. I went through quite a few grinding pegs while learning, actually never messed up a chain too much, and very quickly became pretty good at sharpening those little teeth.

I use a regular vise to clamp the bottom teeth (the ones that look like a dog's tooth) on the chain when I sharpen. Then I use the rotary grinder and do the teeth on one side of the chain, moving the chain every two or three teeth. It's very easy to hold the correct angle and get the front & top edge sharp. Trust me on this one, it's not rocket science. Then I flip the chain around and do the other side. The chain from my 20" Poulan takes 10 minutes off the saw to do a good sharpen.

I say go for it. The little power sharpeners aren't that expensive, are easy to use, and you'll have a sharp chain when you want it. I always have a sharp chain on the saw and another standing by. Life can be good.

Bob Pence

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Richard, with practice you can do your own. I handfile all my own sawchains with fine results. Over time I've experienced the same problems with some shops. In fact at one place 6 of my chains were esentially rendered useless by some young kid "runnin' the show" while his boss was out on the snowmobile race circuit. There are 2 angles to maintain on the cutter teeth. The raker teeth (depth gauge) height is important also. Too high and the chain won't cut good and too low it will grab too much. Keep the saw from moving while you file. All I use for equipment is a round file, flat file, raker gauge and a small portable chain vice. Wear gloves to protect your hands from cuts. Check out http://www.baileys-online.com. They have everything you need including electric chain grinders & chain loops They're in TN too!

 

[RobS]

Sorry for interjecting, but all this chain saw stuff reminds me of a little chain saw humor I remember from a while back: Seems this guy from Arkansas was having trouble with his brand new chain saw. He returned to the dealer and explained that he was cutting more wood by hand than he was with the chain saw. The dealer looked it over and fired it up. Everything seemed to be in order. When he shut it off the owner asked "What the hell was all that noise?".

Wait, there's more...

A couple of weeks later the guy returns to the dealer. Said the saw had been running and cutting well. He stopped to replace the chain one day and ever since it just wouldn't cut. He even fired it up and demonstrated the poor performance to the dealer. Dealer looked at the saw and said "You put the new chain on backwards". Guy says "No I didn't and I'll prove it". He steps onto the other side of the log and tries cutting again... "See, no better".

My apologies to the intelligent people of Arkansas...

Rob

 

[Jag]

Way to go Richard...

 

[Bird]

Richard, it seems to me that it ought to be fairly simple, but I've known two people who bought the electric grinder like Bob Pence, tried it a couple of times, gave up, and went back to having someone else do their sharpening. I suspect it's like a lot of jobs; simple if you know how. And I don't think it should take too long to learn.

Bird

 

[jimmoore]

duh, thas orite Rob!! Don't have chainsaw, but keeps wife axe sharp as a razor!!
Gore sends Bush telegram:
When the votes are all counted
and the election is past
I'll hug your elephant if you will kiss my a$$.

 

[ejb]

Richard, the only good solution that I have found is to use the blades until they are dull and then buy new ones...only halfway kidding. I try to sharpen my own blades all the time, and have rarely been satisfied with the result...tried bringing to the local shop as well, and they barely did any better (and seemed to file about 50% of the life out of the blades in one shapening!)...a finally bit the bullet, and bought two new blades (second one was 50% off), so it only came to about $10 per chain.

When I got home and put on that new chain I COULD NOT BELIEVE the difference it made...all those years of thinking my saw was inferior and it was solved for $10.

You have to seriously consider the cost of sharpening yourself (time) versus the cost of dropping it off, picking it up etc. For me it is 20 minutes either way (not too far), and $3/blade for a terrible job.

For $7 more, the saw acts like a hot knife thru butter (thats the real savings for me, cuts down the amount of time I actually need to spend chainsawing, which is not one of my favorite chores).

At most I would need maybe 2 or 3 chains per year...

If you find the perfect solution, lets us all know.