Chain saw chain replacement

Anonymous Poster · Nov 10, 2002

I have a Husqvarna 340 chain saw. I need to replace the chain while I have the original one sharpened. Do I need to buy a "Husqvarna" brand of chain or will a generic one purchased through Home Depot or Lowes work? I would appreciate your comments. Regards

Boondox · Nov 10, 2002

Any chain of the proper specs will fit, but not all chains are created equal. I'd stick with Husky, Oregon, or Stihl, with Stihl being the best of the bunch in my opinion...and I drive a Husky 372XP.

Pete

beenthere · Nov 10, 2002

A practice that I have followed for nearly 30 years, is to have two chains for every drive sprocket. That way when one chain is off being sharpened, the other can be used. When the two chains are finished (can't sharpen them any more), then I buy two new chains and a new sprocket (Stihl brand name). The reason given to me, was that the sprocket will wear down at the same rate as the chain drive links. If you put a new chain on an old worn sprocket (or a new sprocket on with an old chain), the sprocket apparently will wear down very quickly to try to match the chain. I bought into this argument when I first bought my Stihl saw and have followed the practice with dozens of chains over the years. I am still using the original bar (Windsor with nose sprocket). I turn the bar over every time I change to the other chain.

I am not 100% sure that this practice is worthwhile, but I think it makes a lot of sense. Just an opinion.

kcbarnes · Nov 11, 2002

If you go to <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.baileys-online.com/>http://www.baileys-online.com/</A> you can buy chains very reasonable. I have had good luck so far, just call them and they will help you.

riptides · Nov 12, 2002

In response/agreement with beenthere

<blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr>

A practice that I have followed for nearly 30 years, is to have two chains for every drive sprocket

<hr></blockquote>

I have four chains for one saw /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif and this year alone broke (1), too little metal to sharpen (1), in rotation (4).
Sore back (1) /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

-Mike Z.

Fullquiver · Nov 12, 2002

I have an Echo with two 20 inch Oregon chains, one to sharpen and one to use. This week I bought a heavy duty Husky with 24 inch bar and Oregon "skip tooth" chain. I use the echo for small stuff (as it is easier on my arms) and the Husky for big stuff. Today I picked up a second skip tooth chain for the Husky. You do have to match your chain to your saw but the Oregon box should help you do this. My Husky dealer matched me up today for $20 which is what I paid at Home Depot last time for my extra echo chain. Good luck.

Frank

Anonymous Poster · Nov 13, 2002

Thanks to all for the informative posts re. replacement chains for my Husqvarna chain saw. In checking through a number of stores, I found that the Northern Tool Company(www.northerntool.com) will sell Husqvarna brand replacement chains for my model 340 for $12.99 per chain. If it is for use on the farm, there is no tax. I am buying through the local store in Dallas so I'm not sure how one would apply for this exemption over the Net. Thanks again for all the good comments. Regards

internationlman · Nov 25, 2002

I prefer custom made chain from a local sharping shop. They seem to hold up better than what you buy in stores plus it is alot more agresive. These type chain seem to be easier to sharpen and stay sharp longer no matter the abuse.

Kyle_in_Tex · Dec 4, 2002

Has anyone had any experience with Stihl's carbide teeth chain? I know what it costs, roughly $115 to fit an 18" bar or a little over $500 for a "roll". Just clearing our land and trimming trees so far this fall, we've burned up almost 7 gallons of premix gas in saws. We try to keep 4 chains in rotation for each of 3 saws. Stihl claims the carbide lasts up to 10 times longer. We are clearing dead oaks and cedar, some up to 24" diameter. The oaks are really hard on the core wood, can dull a standard chain in 15 minutes of use. Let me know anyone who has experience with it.
Thanks for any input.

dmccarty · Dec 9, 2002

Kyle_in_Tex,

I have not used the carbide chain saws but I'll tell you what
the loggers who timbered my land told me.

Their huge cutting equipment, the disk was 30+ inches in
diameter, could use steel or carbide teeth. The carbide lasted
longer but cost a whole lot more than the steel. The steel
teeth could be sharpened. The carbides could not. They
where using the steel teeth.

This weekend I was cleaning up downed trees from the ice
storm we got last week and I managed to hit a rock with my
saw. I should be able to hone the teeth back up but if I had
carbide I think I would be throwing away the chain.

I've been cleaning up my land for three years and I'll be doing
it forever with all of the hurricanes, snow and ice storms we
seem to get lately....

So if you think you can keep from hitting metal or rock with
your saw then carbide might be the way to go. Otherwise
you might want to stick with regular chain....

If you are dulling chain in 15 minutes something has to be
wrong. I have cut up quite a few oaks in the 24-36 inch
size and unless I put the tip of the saw in the ground the
chain is ok. Now I do try to touch up the teeth every time
I use the saw but I don't really need to do it as often as I
do. The last four-five hours of chainsaw use I have not
sharpened the chain and it was fine until I hit the rock on
Saturday...

Maybe one of our timber guys will chime up with some ideas...

Later,
Dan McCarty