Chain Saw Question

kevinj · Jun 6, 2006

( I think your point about this being a "lightweight" chain is a good one. With the number of trees I am cutting )

The chain will take the abuse if all is well. My Dad cuts 3 to 5 cord a year with the same saw and has no problems. He actually wore his first one out after 7 or 8 years of cutting wood and trimming. He keeps that for rough work but bought another 180 saw. His only problem was cutting stumps close to the dirt and that wore out the bar and sprocket. Mine is close to 5 years old and I have no issues.

kevinj · Jun 6, 2006

( I think your point about this being a "lightweight" chain is a good one. With the number of trees I am cutting )

The chain will take the abuse if all is well. My Dad cuts 3 to 5 cord a year with the same saw and has no problems. He actually wore his first one out after 7 or 8 years of cutting wood and trimming. He keeps that for rough work but bought another 180 saw. His only problem was cutting stumps close to the dirt and that wore out the bar and sprocket. Mine is close to 5 years old and I have no issues.

sparkkky · Jun 6, 2006

Quote

You are dealing with a special Stihl light weight chain. Once properly broke in and tensioned it will last a long time.

Been reading through 3 pages to make sure this has been pointed out, I am a fan of narrow kerf bars and chain and have installed it on my Shindawa.

sparkkky · Jun 6, 2006

Quote

You are dealing with a special Stihl light weight chain. Once properly broke in and tensioned it will last a long time.

Been reading through 3 pages to make sure this has been pointed out, I am a fan of narrow kerf bars and chain and have installed it on my Shindawa.

proudestmonkey · Jun 6, 2006

My chain and bar both specify each other for my chain saw, so there is no issue there.

proudestmonkey · Jun 6, 2006

My chain and bar both specify each other for my chain saw, so there is no issue there.

proudestmonkey · Jun 6, 2006

I don't think your point has been mentioned. I'll check the manual again to see how tense it should be when starting. I do note, though, that the manual for the chain says its been pre-stretched.

proudestmonkey · Jun 6, 2006

I don't think your point has been mentioned. I'll check the manual again to see how tense it should be when starting. I do note, though, that the manual for the chain says its been pre-stretched.

proudestmonkey · Jun 6, 2006

If I were cutting larger trees, I don't think I'd be having this problem. The dealer agrees. I have never had this problem when cutting down 4" and larger trees. I run into problems when cutting many many smaller (2-3" diameter) trees. The dealer took a look at my saw, my bars, my chains and said that chains bending when cutting lots of buckthorn is not avoidable. He did suggest cutting the trunks from the part of the chain closest to the handle part. There are stationary teet there that he said can help hold the smaller trunks so they don't bend and twist as much. I suggested going to a larger gauge chain and bar. He said bad idea, that the problem would get worse because the larger chain would make the tree move around more. Another suggestion he had was to have someone bend the tree over a little so it didn't come back and pinch the chain and bar. He also suggested that the chain saw is not the best tool for the job, and suggested using a trimmer with what looks a little like a circular saw blade. That's a $450 proposition. I'd rather buy a few more chains. Finally, he did confirm that both of the bars I had were true (not bent or worn), and that I had the faceplate and tensioner attached correctly.

proudestmonkey · Jun 6, 2006

If I were cutting larger trees, I don't think I'd be having this problem. The dealer agrees. I have never had this problem when cutting down 4" and larger trees. I run into problems when cutting many many smaller (2-3" diameter) trees. The dealer took a look at my saw, my bars, my chains and said that chains bending when cutting lots of buckthorn is not avoidable. He did suggest cutting the trunks from the part of the chain closest to the handle part. There are stationary teet there that he said can help hold the smaller trunks so they don't bend and twist as much. I suggested going to a larger gauge chain and bar. He said bad idea, that the problem would get worse because the larger chain would make the tree move around more. Another suggestion he had was to have someone bend the tree over a little so it didn't come back and pinch the chain and bar. He also suggested that the chain saw is not the best tool for the job, and suggested using a trimmer with what looks a little like a circular saw blade. That's a $450 proposition. I'd rather buy a few more chains. Finally, he did confirm that both of the bars I had were true (not bent or worn), and that I had the faceplate and tensioner attached correctly.