chain saws

[chrisjbell]

Love the Husky saws. Great power, reliability, not too heavy.

Don't get a bigger bar than you need - it doesn't do you any good unless you're cutting big stuff. It isn't at all unusual to buy a power head and bar separately in order to properly match power / weight with what is really required as far as bar length.

 

[coobie]

I have worked for the local power company as a tree trimmer and electric lineman for the last 30 plus years.I have used stihl saws for most of those years,they have held up great and we use the heck out of them.coobie

 

[1bush2hog]

Don't get a bigger bar than you need - it doesn't do you any good unless you're cutting big stuff.

Longer bars can also save some wear and tear on your back when bucking, but can also find your toe (and other things) quicker too.

I like running an 18" bar on my MS260 when bucking and limbing smaller dia. stuff as it saves on my back. Although a 16" bar seems to be a better all around size for the 260

I have read many good reports on the MS361. I have the older version a MS360 and it is also a great saw. I use 18" & 20" bars with it

 

[marks]

In addition to my 52cc Echo, I've been using two arborists saws; an Echo 341 and Stihl T-15? These smaller saws are refreshing to use on diameters less than 8 inches, they are easy handle and the fatigue factor is greatly reduced,

 

[John_Mc]

Longer bars can also save some wear and tear on your back when bucking, but can also find your toe (and other things) quicker too.

Yeah, but working at the wrong end of a longer lever arm can be pretty fatiguing as well. I actually prefer a shorter bar for limbing, and try to work as close in to the power head as possible. I find the shorter bar and lighter saw, as well as working close in let's me work longer wihtout getting worn out. I might not notice the difference between a longer, heavier chainsaw, and a shorter, lighter one if I'm only limbing one or two trees... but after a day of work, I can definitely tell the difference. Bucking might be a different story: if I'm bucking up a 20" log, it sure would be nice to have a 20" bar to do it with... that way I could do it in one cut, rather than having to come at it from two sides.

I have a 16" bar on both my chainsaws. One of them could handle a longer bar, but I don't have much need for it. I've dropped a 28" diameter tree with a 16" bar, and had length to spare. In my area, the number of trees I run into that can't be handled with a 16" bar are few and far between. Yes, some of the bigger trees might go a bit quicker with a longer bar. However, I balance that one tree that takes a bit of extra time against a day of working with a bar that keeps things as light as possible, and encourages good body mechanics when limbing.

John Mc

 

[hangnail]

I checked out the 361 today from stihl, real nice, saw, price well, you get what you pay for. After seeing it, I think the next step down should be fine, would that be the 260? hard to really tell just from the stats, like I said this saw will be mainly from dropping, and for hitting the big logs.

I haven't checked any jonsered or huskqavana yet

 

[montanaman]

I checked out the 361 today from stihl, real nice, saw, price well, you get what you pay for. After seeing it, I think the next step down should be fine, would that be the 260? hard to really tell just from the stats, like I said this saw will be mainly from dropping, and for hitting the big logs.

I haven't checked any jonsered or huskqavana yet

I need to ask why you are thinking of the next step down? Is it a money thing or a size thing? The 361 is an awesome saw with 4.4 HP and a 12.3lb powerhead weight that runs a 3/8" chain. For dropping and cutting bigger logs, in my opinion, this would be the saw for moderate trees. Can run a 16" to 25" bar with a 20" recommended

The 260 is the next step down in size in the professional Stihl line. It is 3.2 HP and only 10.6lb powerhead weight and runs a .325 chain. Some will insist on running a 3/8" chain on the 260 and that may be great for pine, but in hard woods, Stihl suggests the .325. Can run a 16" t0 20" bar with a 16" recommended. It is a VERY nice running saw but if you are looking for more power and chain size, add the extra $100 and buy the MS361.

Just my biased opinion!

Ken

 

[jimmysisson]

If you go to the Arborist site, you'll see lots of chatter about a Dolmar mid-weight saw, the 5100S, a 50cc saw with 2.8 hp and 14.5K rpm. I got one last year to fill in between a 40cc Husky and an 80cc older Jonsered. The Dolmar is so smooth, powerful, and well balanced I don't use the others much any more. It just feels like a well crafted piece of machinery. German, oldest manufacturer of chainsaws, spotty dealer network, etc. At least have a look at one.
Jim

 

[grnspot110]

Check out your dealer too! Around here Stihl is the way to go, the same dealer used to sell Jonsred also, don't know why he quit. I've used an 029 Stihl w/16" bar for years, a lot more than average homeowner, though not professionaly. I've had it since Mac. went under, no problems. Personally I would only buy this kind of tool from a dealer who sevices thier own, never from a "BOX" store .

I would agree, don't get a longer bar than you really need!

grnspot

 

[John_Mc]

Jonsered saws in the same basic range as the Stihl 361:

Jonsered 2156C (56.5 cc, 4.4 HP, 12.3 lb powerhead)
Jonsered 2159C (59 cc, 4.1 HP, 12.3 lb powerhead)

Interesting that the 2156 has lower displacement, but higher HP than the 2159. I believe Husky has the same thing on a few saws. They both must tweak the engines on some models.

One of the saws I run is similar: a Jonsered 2152C (51.7 cc, 3.3 HP, 11 lb powerhead). It is a step down from the size range noted above, but still in their pro line. I use a .325 pitch chain and 16" bar on this. Have dropped 28" diameter trees with this with power (and bar length) to spare... just had to come at it from two sides. If I were running a 3/8" pitch chain, I would probably step up to the 2156 or 2159.

John Mc