Chains or Straps?

[UpstateSC_Papi]

Hi all!

I am horrible when it comes to using the search function so if this has been discussed previously, PLEASE accept my apologies and point me to the right thread!

I currently haul my L2800 back and forth to our new home construction site (about 15 miles round trip). The dealer provided me with chains and come-alongs when I purchased tractor/trailer. In looking at various posts here, I see what I would call "straps" being used, that is they are not metal chains.

Do those work just as well? I have scratched up my tractor in several spots with the chains rubbing (putting them on/off) and would like to switch to the straps, but do NOT want to jeopardize myself, others and/or my equipment by doing so.

Thanks for any insight!

Michael

 

[firemanpat2910]

let me make this short and simple. Get a length of old firehose. slip it over the chain where it touches tractor.

It is a matter of preference, legalities, and good nuff vs triple overkill.

 

[RobJ]

I use straps, easier to store, easier to work with. I only use 2, one pulling the front to the back of the trailer, and the other on the back pulling to the front of the trailer. My L still has a really strong parking brake, I also put it gear. If I have an implement I lower it all the way down.

I drive much slower when towing and watch out for that other guy.

Here is my tow from last Saturday up to Eddie's place. You can see the straps. Actually I think I moved the tractor back a bit as I was about to unload the ATV.

 

[UpstateSC_Papi]

let me make this short and simple. Get a length of old firehose. slip it over the chain where it touches tractor.

It is a matter of preference, legalities, and good nuff vs triple overkill.

I am all for avoiding overkill! Thanks for the idea!

Robj

You setup yours exactly as I do mine except straps vs. chains. If I decide to go to straps, suggest a good place to get them? TSC?

 

[SnowRidge]

Chains, at all four corners. You can use straps, but they will chafe if you aren't very careful, and when that happens, they are weakened and must be discarded.

Straps (and chains) have two ratings, SWL or safe working load, and breaking strength, which is based on average testing. Too many strap manufacturers and sellers advertise the breaking strength instead of the SWL, which is always a much lower number. Go by the SWL rating and nothing else. If the SWL isn't given or isn't clear, don't buy the strap.

In my opinion, each and every strap or chain should have a SWL rating at least as high as the load it is tieing down.

 

[UpstateSC_Papi]

Chains, at all four corners. You can use straps, but they will chafe if you aren't very careful, and when that happens, they are weakened and must be discarded.

Straps (and chains) have two ratings, SWL or safe working load, and breaking strength, which based on average testing. Too many strap manufacturers and sellers advertise the breaking strength instead of the SWL, which is always a much lower number. Go by the SWL rating and nothing else. If the SWL isn't given or isn't clear, don't buy the strap.

In my opinion, each and every strap or chain should have a SWL rating at least as high as the load it is tieing down.

I knew absolutely none of that! I absolutely love this site and the knowledge it contains!

 

[RobJ]

Dare I say this....I think I've bought some at HD and some at Harbor Freight. They are the 2" ratchet type. They are probably 15,000 or 20,000# range. My tractor alone weighs about 2000# so one of these could yo-yo my tractor.

If I trailered my tractor every day for a business or REAL often, I would probably rig up some semi permanate cables. IE, 2 fixed lenght cables attached to the front of the trailer that I can hook to the tractor, then 2 adjustable connections in the back to draw the front ones tight. It would make things faster on the load and unload. I actually do this on my ATV when it's in the back of the truck, I have a cable attacted to the trailer hitch, it comes up between the tailgate and bed(it lives there all the time). When I load the atv I hook this into the frame, push the atv forward and lock the brakes. It keeps it about 1" from my toolbox. The atv can't move forward, I don't worry about it moving backward because I drive a big truck, not a sports car. Also no bump in the road is going to bounce a 600#atv from the bed of my truck, even still the cable goes almost straight down, not a side pull. The only way it's comming out is if I roll the truck. And a couple cheap straps isn't going to hold all the G force if my truck starts rolling.

JMO...Rob

 

[Soundguy]

Fireman pat summed it up real good.

For most non comercial apps on SCUT and smallish CUT.. the straps will be fine.. as long as you have the required number, and the correct weight rating. If you were comercial and hauling under DOT scrutiny.. I'm pretty sure you will need chains at the coreners.. .. etc.

For private..whether using chains or straps.. i like 1+1/per 10' of load. IE.. minimum 2. I like to secure front and rear corners.. etc.

Fireman pat also has a good sugestion for firehose. that's what i use when hauling my parade queen tractors to a show.. keeps the chain from scraping all the perty' paint off!

soundguy

Hi all!

I am horrible when it comes to using the search function so if this has been discussed previously, PLEASE accept my apologies and point me to the right thread!

I currently haul my L2800 back and forth to our new home construction site (about 15 miles round trip). The dealer provided me with chains and come-alongs when I purchased tractor/trailer. In looking at various posts here, I see what I would call "straps" being used, that is they are not metal chains.

Do those work just as well? I have scratched up my tractor in several spots with the chains rubbing (putting them on/off) and would like to switch to the straps, but do NOT want to jeopardize myself, others and/or my equipment by doing so.

Thanks for any insight!

Michael

 

[SnowRidge]

Dare I say this....I think I've bought some at HD and some at Harbor Freight. They are the 2" ratchet type. They are probably 15,000 or 20,000# range. My tractor alone weighs about 2000# so one of these could yo-yo my tractor.

If I trailered my tractor every day for a business or REAL often, I would probably rig up some semi permanate cables. IE, 2 fixed lenght cables attached to the front of the trailer that I can hook to the tractor, then 2 adjustable connections in the back to draw the front ones tight. It would make things faster on the load and unload. I actually do this on my ATV when it's in the back of the truck, I have a cable attacted to the trailer hitch, it comes up between the tailgate and bed(it lives there all the time). When I load the atv I hook this into the frame, push the atv forward and lock the brakes. It keeps it about 1" from my toolbox. The atv can't move forward, I don't worry about it moving backward because I drive a big truck, not a sports car. Also no bump in the road is going to bounce a 600#atv from the bed of my truck, even still the cable goes almost straight down, not a side pull. The only way it's comming out is if I roll the truck. And a couple cheap straps isn't going to hold all the G force if my truck starts rolling.

JMO...Rob

Sorry Rob, but this is a pretty good example of how not to approach tieing cargo down.

"They are the 2" ratchet type. They are probably 15,000 or 20,000# range. My tractor alone weighs about 2000# so one of these could yo-yo my tractor."

More likely they have a breaking strength of 10,000 lbs and safe working load of 3,300 lbs, which is typical for 2" straps. That is a lot closer to the weight of the tractor than the estimate. Plus, there is a box blade on there and fuel and lubricants, which all add up. In fact, these 2" straps appear to be just adequate for the load, if they have no fraying. They certainly aren't overkill.

It isn't safe to guess if you have the right tie down equipment. You have to know. That means knowing what your load weighs. If you have to do any guesstimating, do it on the safe side, then use tie downs adequate to the job.

You also have to know what your straps are made of. They could be either polyester, nylon, polypropylene (pray that they aren't), or something else. These materials have different characteristics, and it is important to know the difference, especially between the two most common, nylon and polyester.

Nylon is much stretchier than polyester, which means it is better at absorbing shock. However, it also stretches when it gets wet, which means nylon tiedowns tend to loosen in the rain. The longer the distance between tie down points, the worse it is. Nylon also deteriorates in the sun faster than polyester. Polypropylene is worse. It degrades rapidly from UV exposure, except for an expensive version with UV inhibitors.

I have seen tiedowns offered for sale made from all three of these materials. The norm seems to be polyester. Polypropylene tie downs are low end junk.

 

[LBrown59]

Hi all!

I am horrible when it comes to using the search function so if this has been discussed previously, PLEASE accept my apologies and point me to the right thread!

I currently haul my L2800 back and forth to our new home construction site (about 15 miles round trip). The dealer provided me with chains and come-alongs when I purchased tractor/trailer. In looking at various posts here, I see what I would call "straps" being used, that is they are not metal chains.

Do those work just as well? I have scratched up my tractor in several spots with the chains rubbing (putting them on/off) and would like to switch to the straps, but do NOT want to jeopardize myself, others and/or my equipment by doing so.

Thanks for any insight!

Michael

Chains are safer than straps as they aren't as likely to break.
If you suffer strap snap and the tractor gets thrown off the trailer how bad do you reckon that would scratch up your tractor?