Chainsaw kickback and safety

[Green4Me]

no offense taken. however if you are trimming at high rpm and that tip hits wrong, the first indication you get is when it slaps you up side of the head. no i will trim at lower revs where i can feel the indication of a kick back and have controll. good luck and we'll have to agree to disagree.

 

[woodlot]

Beenthere - if the links on the bottom of the bar "grab" the saw will kick forward away from you not back at you.......correct? Ever have a brain fart and set the saw on the wood before rev'ing it up? The saw will try to jump forward away from you. I think the only way for it to come back at you is if the links on the TOP of the bar "grab." I believe this is true at any rpm. I guess what I'm trying to say is proper cutting technique will save you from kickbacks more than anything else. Watch your tip, whenever possible cut with the bottom of the bar, keep a sharp chain, and most important, as someone already said, if you tired put down that saw! I do cut with full revs on 99% of all cuts, but full rev is vague as to rpms. My fastest saw is a Jonserud and at full rev is proibly doing twice the rpm of my slowest saw, a Homelight. The faster saws are just as prone to top of the bar pinch-type kickback as that Homelight.

 

[viking65]

I didn't scrutinize that pictures as much as you did. They scared the S*** out of me. I went to my Stihl dealer were I recently bought my MS361 20" chainsaw and picked up the forestry helmet with full wraparound face shield and ear protection, 6 layer chaps and gloves with the same protective material as in the chaps. After looking at those picture and reading the information I felt like such an idiot, out there cutting with just a regular pair of leather gloves and safety glasses for the past several weeks. Maybe I went to the extreme but I feel a lot safer.

 

[beenthere]

woodlot
I agree 100% with you. I do a lot of cutting (estimate 50% about) with the top side of the bar, revved up and cutting. Sometimes, when in a pile of tangled tops, the tip will catch another limb and kick up. With both hands on the saw, and the weight of the saw, no serious kickback. That hasn't been my experience with smaller saws or the electric ones.

My neighbor was 'one-handing' a saw and reaching high to prune a limb. The saw bound a bit, sending it back at him. He had one hand in the air that caught the moving chain right in the palm. Pretty severe wound.

A professional logger I knew, told me when he was in the hospital, how when cutting walnut trees (the buyer wanted all stumps level with the ground, and no notch so as not to lose any wood) his saw pinched on the upper side teeth, sending the saw back out the cut and across his kneeling leg, just above the knee-cap. He wasn't wearing chaps. Took a long operation to connect the severed tendons, as they were all shortened by the chain taking out over 1/4" on each one. He is walking now, with a limp.

I always wear chaps. Have had two mishaps wearing them, and both were 'out of the blue' and a result of non-normal brush cutting, where brush caught the saw and tipped the chain into my leg. Fortunately, the chaps paid the price, not my leg.

My point, any 'kickback' has been when the chain has been at much less speed than full rev of the saw. It stands to reason that the chain teeth cannot grab into the wood at high speed.
Pinching the blade is a bit different, and can cause movement back towards the person suddenly. But good posture that has been mentioned is what will protect the body.

 

[slowzuki]

When the chain comes around the tip, the "rakers" or depth gauges can not limit the bite each cutter takes very effectively making it suscepible to kickback.

Small diameter limbs also are not effectively controled by the rakers as the rounded profile lets them fit inbetween.

Also, bar pushout and kickback are two different things. Pushout can lead to kickback as the tip emerges.

 

[beenthere]

Slowzuki
I've no disagreement with the good points you mention. I use the tip to make plunge cuts regularly, and when starting the plunge cut, some 'kick' can take place. Nothing uncontrollable however.
When I cut with the top of the bar, it is usually with the tip clear and free of contact with wood.

When I buck logs up on the ground for firewood, I touch the log with the tip to mark the log (divide its length up in equal firewood lengths close to 18"). Then I make all the top cuts down to just before the kerf closes or when getting close to the ground (whichever happens first). Then I roll the log 180° and finish all the cuts with the top of the blade, by inserting the blade and bringing the bar up. This is where a slow chain speed will nudge you in the groin if not careful /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[woodlot]

after rolling the log 180 why don't you cut down?

 

[beenthere]

Then the sawcuts might not match and the log end will have a 'step' on it. Just doesn't look good. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

And, the chips go forward and not into my face or down my shirt collar. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

And I think it is faster, and less bark dirt hits the chain, etc., etc., /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Less bending over, as I have a 20" bar and don't have to stoop or kneel on one knee. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[JimR]

Any saw can kick back on you. if you have a fear of using a saw, don't use it. You should always be prepared for a kickback if cutting with the end of the bar or undercutting. I have had many kickbacks over the years with no damage to me whatsoever. Lucky? Maybe, but I am always prepared for it if it does happen. My woodpile from a few very large trees.

 

[beenthere]

I agree.
That is a nice pile of wood. A lot of stacking to do, but maybe you just use it that way?