Chainsaw safety

Coyote machine · Jun 1, 2009

When I was a teenager in the Vietnan War era I was the youngest guy in a crew of vets who did professional tree work. We had numerous men on most sites and were felling trees like rabid beavers. I was a ground guy and was responsible to make sure the guy in the tree's ropes were not tangled or caught on anything. I was also to clear the branches and take them to the chipper to chip. It was HARD work and the boss did not think I was going to make it through the first season.
Well I did and I learned a lot. The MOST important thing was to be absolutely aware at all times of what was happening around me and the guy in the tree and to let no one near the tree, me or the chipper.
One time I was on a wooded lot with a guy I didn't really know and I came over to help push a tree in the right direction, to get it started. When he pulled the saw from the cut he went through my jeans just above the knee. Luck for me I was able to get away fast enough he did not hit my skin.
I was really pissed at him and later myself and NEVER worked in his vicinity again for any reason.
After that very close call I was even more careful and if working close to someone else we would discuss it in advance as to what each of us would be doing.
I in no way excuse my idiocy, and have not and will never forget how lucky I was/am. If I need to work the saw or tractor alone I take a walkie talkie with me and someone in the house has the other base unit near them and turned on. I will have my wife or one of my kids come out to check on me periodically and bring me something to drink or eat so I am forced to take breaks.
I wear chainsaw boots, chaps, helmet, gloves and protective eyewear.
I don't really like being alone when I work a saw or tractor, but I don't want anyone in the immediate area either. If felling a real widowmaker tree I will have my wife or someone be beyond the safety zone to keep an eye on me in case anything happens that gets me into trouble. Safety is the overarching concern when operating ANY power tool.

Good luck to all who do, and be safe and smart about what you are doing and how.

Good day all!

Birdhunter1 · Jun 4, 2009

Found out the effectiveness firsthand this afternoon about saw chaps. Mine are Stihl Pro-mark, got myself just above the right knee when I goosed the throttle before entering a log. It only got the outer jacket and outer ply of material before it jammed up my 029 (or MS 290) and didn't get to the inner plies or even my jeans. Never even felt it on my leg!

weedpharma · Jun 4, 2009

funkydaddy59 said:
Came across this chain saw mishap involving a large tree. Moron Cuts Tree and Crushes His PorchVideo

At least they have the video to show the insurance company what happened.

Is "Moron" strong enough for the title?

Weedpharma

zzvyb6 · Jun 4, 2009

I do have a serious question about the use of a chain saw. What, technically is a kick and what makes it happen? I have a 16" Homelite and a 20" Stihl and use them all the time on the ranch. Never experienced a kick, though. I believe its cause by undercutting a branch or limb. But really, what is the "best practice" for preventing it? Is sharpness a factor? Jambing? worn chain or type of chain teeth?

Treemonkey1000 · Jun 4, 2009

Kickback from chainsaws WARNING - Some of these pages contain very graphic accident or disease pictures

That gives sort of a general explanation with a gory picture. Pinching the nose of the bar with wood that has tension on it can cause kickback. I certainly try to keep the chains very sharp. But I have a good sharpener and lot's of chains which helps. If I am limbing off a tree on the ground I might make a relief cut by just touching the bar on the inside radius of where the tension is at. Then back cut the log or branch. Try to avoid using the tip of the bar is best practice.

Cord · Jun 21, 2009

I always drop start my saws. I set the brake for my two bigger saws, but I don't bother with my small one. That saw is light enough that I don't have trouble holding it with my right hand. My big saw takes two hands to hold (long bar = nose heavy), so I'm forced to rest the nose on the ground when pulling. That saw has a compression release, which is definetly noticable as my middle saw doesn't have one. When I'm in the tree with my small saw and I'm forced to start the saw in a position where there is a chance I'll lose control of it, I'll set the brake. If I want to idle the saw while repositioning my self, either on the ground or in the air, again, I'll set the brake. All I need to do is trip and grab a handful of throttle.

As for starting with the brake on, done it for years and have replaced saws, but never a brake. As soon as the saw starts I'm off the throttle. My saws are tuned well enough that they will idle when cold.

Watch the logging shows on TV. Count how many people are starting the saw on the ground or held between their knees.

Cord · Jun 21, 2009

zzvyb6 said:
I do have a serious question about the use of a chain saw. What, technically is a kick and what makes it happen? I have a 16" Homelite and a 20" Stihl and use them all the time on the ranch. Never experienced a kick, though. I believe its cause by undercutting a branch or limb. But really, what is the "best practice" for preventing it? Is sharpness a factor? Jambing? worn chain or type of chain teeth?

As explained above, kick back is when the nose of the bar contacts something. The rotating chain tries to climb up the object with exceptional rate. Usually it happens so fast that the operator only thinks that it was close, not realizing that it wasn't. The way to prevent kick back is to have a "no" zone in front of the bar. Should something reposition it's self, you don't want the saw to ever contact the nose. This can be really tricky when limbing on the ground. You are going fast and can easily get careless. All it takes is for a limb to shift and pull the saw into something else and the saw will kick back. I've had the saw gently kick back on me a few times, but it's always been blocked, I've never had a classic kick where the saw is aimed at my head.

This is nothing to mess with. If you don't know exactly what the term is, I'd highly suggest reading up on the topic. The better you can understand the term and the dangers that surround, the safer you will be.

Here's a good demo of what a kick is. The first two were medium ones. The last one was a hard kick. Realize that he was braced for the kick. Imagine if you wern't ready for it! YouTube - Kickback Demonstration by Chainsaw Instructor Joe Glenn

archerm3 · Jul 8, 2009

PaulChristenson said:
The guy with the chaps was a COWBOY...

NewToy said:
10-4 on the cowboy, I always get him mixed up with the biker dude.

John

Seems that the biker dude has chaps too.

newbury · Jul 8, 2009

Cord said:
<snip>
Here's a good demo of what a kick is. The first two were medium ones. The last one was a hard kick. Realize that he was braced for the kick. Imagine if you wern't ready for it! YouTube - Kickback Demonstration by Chainsaw Instructor Joe Glenn

Good link
note he did not put the saw on the ground to start.

When you get a tool test it out, not only in the ways it is SUPPOSED to be used but also try out the ways it might be easily misused. To be prepared for mistakes helps prevent accidents.