chainsaw sharpener

[budman72]

I tried the file trick on mine and never got a good sharpening. I bought the chain saw sharpening attachement for my Dremel tool and it works like a charm! no sawdust, actually cuts better than a new chain. If you have a Dremel the kit is about $15. A battery operated Dremel would make it completly portable (mine is 120V)/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

JMHO, Bud

 

[PhilNH5]

Pitbull,
here is a link to stihls page on chain saw sharpening. <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.stihlusa.com/library/SharpAdvice061301final.pdf>http://www.stihlusa.com/library/SharpAdvice061301final.pdf</A>
It is an Adobe pdf. It is pretty good.

In my first post it mentions rakers. The stihl site calls them "DEPTH GAUGES". They lead the cutting edge into the cut. They also push out any saw dust that is in the cut as well as setting the depth of the cut.

I brought a guide from my dealer for filing these. It is a flat piece of metal with a rectangular hole in it. You lay it flat on the cutter and the raker sticks through the rectangular hole. If you fail to file the raker (I do it every 5 gas tankfuls) it will eventually stick up higher than the cutter preventing the cutter from reaching the wood. If you file it to low then the cutter will take to big of a bite of wood and possibly kickback.

Just like file diameters, raker guides are specific to chain size and manufacturer.

Hope some of this was helpful.

Phil

 

[Youare]

Over the years I have owned at least 9 chainsaws, currently there are 4 in the shed. I cut 10 -12 full cords of wood each year and several thound board feet of logs each year. I remember my first chainsaw, worked great until I hit a piece of fence wire that was grown into the tree I was cutting up.

The saw cut in circles the first time I tried to sharpen the chain, I was ready to give the saw away. With a little advice and practice I learned what not to do.

I have used several different types of file guides to no guide at all just a round file. The file holder/guide I like the best is the type that holds the file underneath and has angle marks.

The type of chain I purchase also has a scribe angle mark on the top of the tooth. This helps you to keep the angle the same as it was orginally sharpened.

There are two edges that have to be sharpened, the top edge of the tooth and the side edge of the tooth. The spot where both edges meet, the point of the tooth is important also.

In order to sharpen the top edge and the point of the tooth properly the file must be stroked at the same angle as the slope of the tooth. If you are off on this angle the point will be sharp but the opposite end of the edge will still be dull. Too much the other way leaves the point dull.

The angle must be the must be the same on both sides of the chain or the chain will cut more to one side, which wears your bar to the point where a new chain will not cut straight.

Every now and then I true up my bars, the top surface wears also on a bar so a quick pass on grinding wheel or surface that has a table or rest that is exaclty 90 degrees from the wheel takes care of this.

As you sharpen a chain there is a tendency to remove more from one side than the other. Tooth length must be close to the same on both sides or one side will cut more than the other, circles.

Once you get the feel of it sharpening takes only a few minutes. Like many others have already mentioned sharpen your chain before it gets really dull. If you continue to cut with a dull chain it will generate a lot of heat which will affect the hardness of the tooth. Once a chain has lost some of it's temper it dulls really quick.

For a really bad chain I have made up a jig that holds the chain by the drive part of each tooth. This jig is held in a vice where I can get both sides in a comfortable manner.

Pay attention and practice, it will become second nature sooner or later./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Randy

 

[Anonymous Poster]

OK I'm gonna admit it, I'm a lazy old faht when it comes to typing, so I went looking around, and found the site that will answer most of your questions.
http://www.oregonchain.com/faq.htm
Settin laziness aside, I think the biggest mistake people make filing chains is that they don't take a look at how a chain cuts. Instead of sharpening the tooth, they file he11 out of it, and never sharpen the cutting edge.
On the subject of downsetting, couple little pointers here;
First, don't get carried away with this process, I usually find it necessary about every 5 or 6 times the chain is sharpened. I don't use a downsetting tool any more, been doing it too long, and one less thing to find is a benefit. When you do use the tool, don't file into the tool, or you'll overdo the sdownsetting.
Another thing to remember, downset the chain for the wood you are cutting, soft woods you can take out bigger chips, but if you set a chain for soft wood, it will be troublesome on hard wood.
Another thing I'll mention, the eaisest way to sharpen a chain is with the bar of the saw clamped in a bench vise.

 

[dmccarty]

PitbullMidwest,

I'm late to the thread but what people have told you is
correct. I just use a round hand file to sharpen my chains.
I hit each tooth every time I fill up the tank. It does make
a difference. As long as I dont hit a rock the chains last
a long time. If I hit a rock sometimes I can fix it myself
but often I'll let the shop sharpen the chain. I never used
the guide tools just started by hand and have not had a
problem. I do want a raker guide but I have never used one.

The latest issue of Sawmill and Small Woodlot Owner, I
hope I go the name right, just had an article on sharpening
of chains. The article matches what everyone else has been
saying with one exception.

The one thing that has not been said is to not be afraid to
get rid of the chain when it is worn out. I have a couple
of throw a away chains that just worn out by to many rocks
and to many sharpenings at the shop. The shop I go to
used to sell my chain for 20-22 dollars. They have changed
owners and the price is around 30. 30 seems a bit much
for the chain and at $20 it relatively cheap to throw away.
The also went from about $3 to $6 on the sharpenings.
I'm afraid I'm having to find a new Stihl dealer... /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

The article did say to hit the right side of the chain with two
strokes and the left with three or vice versa depending on
you strong arm. I don't find this to be required for me since
I use the same hand/arm to sharpen both sides of the chain.

So, why am I hitting rocks you ask? Someone will. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
Some of my work is cleaning up after a timber operation so I have
wood on or near the ground. I cut the trees/limbs into 6-8 foot
lengths so its easier to pile up with the tractor. If you leave the
trees/limbs while you end up with a long row of wood instead of
a pile. I have gotten much better about missing rocks buy cutting
the wood just right. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Later....
Dan McCarty

 

[Hoosier_Daddy]

Pitbull, I agree with the rest on just a file and a depth gage to file what we call the drags in these parts.. The last time a buddy of mine filed down the drags on one of my saws I left in his barn and when I went to use it the engine just about couldn't handle the chain because it wanted to cut too much. That can be dangerous as well because it will pinch, kick back and you really have to hang on to it.

Just clamp the bar in a vice, mark the starting point and hit each one with 3 licks of the file.

I cringe when one of my Son-in-Law's ask to use one of my saws. They always seem to manage to get the saw into the dirt. Sand and mud will wipe a chain out real fast before you even know it.

I tell the borrower right up front. Gas in the Gas tank, Oil in the Oil tank and if you destroy the chain you buy me a new one. I also make them take my mix along and tell them to only use what I provided and nobody else's mix in my saws..

Good luck and be careful.......