Chainsaw sharpening, hand or grind?!

   / Chainsaw sharpening, hand or grind?! #91  
Yes the depth gauges need lowered as you sharpen. Personally, I go even more than recommended. Much better performance.
 
   / Chainsaw sharpening, hand or grind?! #92  
Yes the depth gauges need lowered as you sharpen. Personally, I go even more than recommended. Much better performance.
I've done that too. As long as your powerhead has the ability to pull the chain. If you get too far out on depth, you might notice it porpoising and that makes your cut less efficient.

I don't recall what madens sells for files, but they do well on the stihl chains.
 
   / Chainsaw sharpening, hand or grind?! #93  
Filing depth gauges is not necessary every time but should be checked with a gauge. There are several brands of gauges available in different sizes. If you file them down too much you can bog down your saw and the saw can very aggressively pull you into the cut. I think Stihl recommends .025 for most or maybe it is .026. I have run .030 and the chip size goes up a lot, takes a bigger motor and do not let go off the saw as it is aggressive in the cut. I may have the numbers wrong on that but think those are right.
 
   / Chainsaw sharpening, hand or grind?! #94  
I just ordered 1 small carbide because I bought a cs310 from my buddy. You can usually find promo codes if you are buying a timberline sharpener.
 
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   / Chainsaw sharpening, hand or grind?! #95  
I personally find it hard to believe that it's not possible for a experienced hand filer todo as good as factory or not better some of the most exspensive diamonds in history was hand cut to unbelievable accuracy, I would think buick and deer may be right about most hand sharpeners but excellence can still come from a steady hand and knowledge .im not great at it and can't ever get it as good as new but I think it would still be possible with exsperience. And coyote is getting kinda old, lol.
 
   / Chainsaw sharpening, hand or grind?! #96  
Taking the rakers down is just as important as a sharp cutter, if you have sharp cutters and it doesn't cut good it's the rakers. Steve
 
   / Chainsaw sharpening, hand or grind?! #98  
Filing depth gauges is not necessary every time but should be checked with a gauge. There are several brands of gauges available in different sizes. If you file them down too much you can bog down your saw and the saw can very aggressively pull you into the cut. I think Stihl recommends .025 for most or maybe it is .026. I have run .030 and the chip size goes up a lot, takes a bigger motor and do not let go off the saw as it is aggressive in the cut. I may have the numbers wrong on that but think those are right.

So, if I laid a straight edge on top of the cutter teeth, I should have .030 clearance between the straight edge and the top of depth gauge??
 
   / Chainsaw sharpening, hand or grind?! #99  
OK, we got another small snow yesterday (2-3"), so I got seat time instead of chain sharpening demo time (awww!!!), will have to try again tonight. We keep getting these northwest small snows every 3 days or so this year. Love the new tractor - it blasts right thru the snowplow drifts unlike my previous gasser with 47" blower.

Anyway, just for fun, I sent Stihl a clarification request on their position about chain sharpening in terms of direction of sharpening. Their response is below - keep in mind as you read it, nowhere do they address how to get the cutters sharpest - only perfecting the "angle", a typical German response of low value, in my experienced view (yes, I am German ancestry). Recall the old experienced Forester I learned from told me to get the cutters sharp using a hand file, you need to file in the direction as you would any knife. Do as you wish, just sayin' you get a lot sharper filing (by hand) this way. There is little "risk" of wrecking your cutters, give it a try, see what you think. With a grinder it doesn't matter because you remove material so much faster. Yes, a bit OCD, but I cut a lot of hard, dry oak so it's important to me. Back with home photos soon.....

My question to Stihl Technical Service:
comments: Hello, I own 4 Stihl Chainsaws, beginning 25 years ago. They are great. We are debating chain sharpening method. Your manuals say to sharpen "from the inside to the outside of the cutter" - but this is opposite direction of how one sharpens any kitchen knife - from the direction that the cut item enters the cut. I have sharpened chain both your way & from the "outside in" with my hand round files and find the "outside in" produces a much sharper edge as with a sharp knife. Please explain why you recommend sharpening in opposite direction that wood is being cut. Thank you.

Stihl Reply:
Hello Mr. Mann,



We are in receipt of and thank you for your e-mail.



We recommend filing the cutter teeth of chain from the inside to the outside because the material being filed off the edge is easily disposed of once the filing is complete. Filing the cutter tooth always creates a burr at the edge, and that burr must be removed once the filing is complete. The burr is easily removed by use of a flat file along the outer edge of each tooth. To file the teeth in the opposite direction creates the burr along the inner edge of the cutter tooth. This burr is more difficult to remove, and cause an inaccurate filing angle if allowed to build up over time.



Thank you again for your e-mail.



Best regards,

Wayne Lemmond

Technical Service Representative

STIHL Inc.
 
   / Chainsaw sharpening, hand or grind?! #100  
I don't remember in the Stihl video that I watched, them saying anything about using a flat file on the outside of the chain... though I guess I see his point, if you were going to do that step. Does anyone do that?
 

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