Chainsaw Sizing

[Rustyiron]

I ended up being a "Stihl guy" somehow, just never had a Husky or Dolmar/Makita, pretty much the only commercial duty saws made anymore. Recently after reading some great reviews by fellas that are real saw snob's* (see the above saw's) and wanted a smaller, lighter saw than my 70cc range of "pro" saws that I've been running for 20+ years and ended up buying a new Echo cs 490. It's about 50cc's and starts and operates just as well as my Stihl's and is backed up by a great warranty, out the door for about $350. Imho, any one of the above saws should last you for 20 years +, just use good 2 stroke mix that has a fuel stabilizer (for the ethanol). Buy the saw by the size of the engine (cc's) you need to fill a gap or up size from your current list. Poulan used to be something in the day. Those days were a long time ago and now seem only to make throw away "consumer" saws and not to mention no local serious service shops. Keep in mind bar lengths are only a sales pitch for the un informed "consumer". There is a ratio between cc's and what size bar it can pull in what type of wood (hardwood/softwood). Even on some of my larger saw's I'll only run a 18" bar to be less cumbersome limbing up.

* not really snob's, but the guy's that buy a $1200 saw then hot rod it with muffler mod's & tuning to be satisfied.

 

[dnw64]

30 years ago we had just bought an adjoining 10 acres. We had it aggressively logged and there was lots of cleanup to do. We were visited by an arborist who lent me his Husqvarna 268XP with 18" bar. I had used various saws over the years, and was totally blown away by the saw. I used it for about a year when I felt I really needed to return it, and bought my own. This was in the days when I was buying 20 year old cars for $1000-2000, and I paid over $700 for the saw.

I still have it, and it still is a beast. I did have the top end rebuilt once, but it is a real winner in my book.

Getting back to your question, I do think that having one small and one larger saw is a good idea. I only have the one - while I do have a pole saw attachment for my Stihl trimmer. For more normal sawing operations I will use a battery powered "sawzall" or just a handsaw. the 268 is relatively light, but if you are doing a lot of small stuff it does get heavy after a while.

 

[Sodo]

My MS1xx was stolen (can't remember but it was the predecessor to the 170) ..... so I bought a $650 Stihl MS201 pro limbing saw. Boy was I misled. The $330 Stihl 1xx started every time with one pull, but the MS201 ALWAYS took 3-4 pulls. And didn't have much more power. So I hot-rodded it. Now it's loud, and faster, and starts in 1-2 pulls. Still not as easy as the MS1xx and arguably not twice the saw. But I get respect, nobody knocks my MS201 (except the Husqv guys laugh at all the rope pulls).

Then I bought a Makita 36v top-handle electric saw ($169) and am very happy. I can't remember the last time I started the Stihl. I have some pretty big firewood decks of 4-6" firs, so it's just incidental that I can always get what I need with electric. If I had to fell trees I'd have to start the gas saw but in the last year since I got the Makita, it just doesn't happen. And I have a Stihl 028 with an (oversized) 24" bar too. It should have 20".

Well anyway, the bigger the saw the more you have to carry around. If you cut for hours, bigger will be faster. If you cut a few logs then shut down, smaller/lighter is better. If you are maintaining trails etc, there is absolutely NO QUESTION that battery/electric is superior. You don't have to ask anyone, the gas saw sitting, not started, will confirm it.

If your oiler is not oiling that could explain the bar wearing out too.

Also branches and logs near to the ground can get enough dirt on the bark to dull a chain fast. From dust and from rain splashing mud up off the ground. You need to develop a habit to "clean a chain cut path" with one quick swipe of the chain, so then each tooth doesn't drag dirt into the cut. Just assume the bark has dirt on it and make a quick 'line' ahead of your cut path. Then when the chain is pulling hard, throwing big chips, you know its in 'clean wood'.

 

[DieselnHooters]

And I have a Stihl 028 with an (oversized) 24" bar too. It should have 20".
.

It might do the job where you are on fir and cedar. I would not wish for anything bigger than an 18'' bar on my 034 over here on sugar maple beech or oak.

 

[ArlyA]

Discount tool manufactures reduce cost with loose tolerances and other corners cut. If I have a job to do, I like to use something that runs well and is dependable. I think you be better off with two saws with dedicated bars, not switching them out.

I had a Poulan Pro pole saw and that thing was super handy but couldn稚 keep it running. Ran good as long as it was running wide open. Let off the throttle and it would die. I have found that extended handle loppers work just as good for what I used the pole saw for.

But I either need two size saws or one good saw with 2 different size bars. Would probably be buying Stihl whatever I decide to go with.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Look at the Husqvarna saws at Loews. I have had excellent service from them. Upgraded later to their professional series but I think that would be an overkill for your uses. The 455 and 460 Ranchers are beasts for the money. Never had a starting problem.

Ron

 

[Egon]

Try a new new chain first.

Your present chain may have been overheated when used dull. That takes the temper out of the teeth.

Keeping the chain sharp at all times makes for much easier sawing. Many do a touch up sharpening after several tanks of fuel. Others keep more sharp chains at hand so they can change them out during the day. Then sharpen them all at one time.

If buying new it’s the cc’s That count. There are different bar lengths and chains available for the same head. Shorter bars handle easier. Longer bars cut longer but slower. If extremely long for certain cut’s the feed rate must be greatly reduced to avoid overheating the saw.

 

[CobyRupert]

I like the 2 saw route.
For trimming a small light saw works great with a .325" pitch chain is all you need. No sense in slinging a big heavy saw around that tires you out. I find that cutting brush and small sticks where the saw is going from one brush to the other is when one can get careless "slashing" (to quickly and blindly). As such a light saw helps.

For firewood, #1 priority is I want a .375" pitch chain. IMHO it's night and day compared to a.325 chain.
I also want a bar that 's big enough for 80% of what I'm going to cut (for me a 18" bar is plenty), I like the 50cc -60cc range, and a good horsepower to weight ratio. Weight being very important if you're going to run it for an extended period of time.

 

[jeff9366]

I had a Poulan Pro pole saw and that thing was super handy but could not keep it running.

I have found that extended handle loppers work just as good for what I used the pole saw for.

I have owned a $350 Stihl (Silky) PP800 manual pole saw for five years.
Great tool. Never again a gas powered pole chainsaw for me.

VIDEO: Stihl PP8 Telescoping Pole Pruner - YouTube

 

[EddieWalker]

Chainsaws are like tractors. You will find a lot of loyalty from those who support what they already have, but haven't ever owned anything else. Stihl is a good brand. I wouldn't spend the money to replace it just because the chain doesn't stay sharp for as long as you want it. I would figure out why it's going dull, or if you even have the right chain on she saw for what you are doing. There is a good selection of replacement chains out there, and chains are pretty cheap to replace. My first stop would be at your local Stihl dealer with your saw and I'd have a little talk with the people that work there.

While there, ask about a file to sharpen the chain yourself. I keep a chain on my saw until it's so stretched out that I can no longer tighten it. Brand new and it cuts really nice, but once it's starts to wear out, I start hitting it with a file before using it. It takes about five minutes to do the entire chain, and I just consider it part of my getting the saw ready routine before using it to cut rounds for firewood. Once you get the hang of it, you'll never have a dull chain again!!!

I've tried quite a few different brands, and like Echo the best. For a little less money then Stihl, you can have the same amount of power, but a saw that starts a lot easier. For the same money that you spend on Stihl, you can get a much better Echo. I have three Stihl chainsaws, one Echo and one Remington electric chainsaw. When working out in the field, I prefer the Echo, but my biggest and smallest saws are both Stihl, so I use them too. For pruning around the house, and cutting posts, I just love the electric Remington chainsaw. It's 110 volts, so you need a cord, and that's the only drawback. It's super light, and cuts as good as any small gas powered chainsaw out there. Just add oil to lube the chain and go!!

My wife likes to prune the trees, so I let her use my Makita sawzall with Porter Cable pruning blades. I use them all the time for cutting roots when digging footings or post holes, but she loves it for cutting low branches. She will stand in the back of the Mule, or even on the roof to get branches with it!!! I have six batteries for it and three chargers, so she's able to prune all day long and I'm comfortable with her using it without getting hurt.

We also have a telescoping pruning tool that you pull the cord and it cuts the branches off. It's for stuff an inch thick or less. Before grabbing a chainsaw, I'll use that if I can.